Aurorasaurus Posted April 2 Posted April 2 10 minutes ago, efferman said: this one needs the analogue control. It will come because i have a prototype, but i dont know when. The video title is overhauled, did the front wheel hubs change? I've only ever briefly looked at that model but the use of the 3 ball and 1 pinhole wheel hubs struck me as a poor choice; links popping off and low steering precision plague lego models using them. Cada offering a proportional control system seems like a good step if they can do it with a nicely integrated physical remote and a decent servo. Quote
SNIPE Posted April 2 Posted April 2 Long shot but does anyone have scans in a pdf or a official pdf file of set C61508w and/or c61507w. If not I'll have to wait until they're uploaded on the yourwobb library in Google drive. Quote
efferman Posted April 3 Posted April 3 On 4/2/2025 at 4:40 PM, Aurorasaurus said: did the front wheel hubs change? No, the hubs are the same. I have only removed the slack between servo and pushrods. Quote
eric trax Posted April 6 Posted April 6 On 4/2/2025 at 7:15 PM, SNIPE said: Long shot but does anyone have scans in a pdf or a official pdf file of set C61508w and/or c61507w.e. You need to wait minimum half year after set realise. Quote
amorti Posted April 6 Posted April 6 (edited) On 4/2/2025 at 7:23 AM, amorti said: I finally started on the larger scale Citroen rally car last-last night. This evening I finished the build. It's a nice build! However... The steering needs modifying to work as a manual system (unsupported gear due to bad construction / more likely forced by it being able to modify to RC) The front suspension feels decently weighted, but has too much friction to return. This seems to be due to excess friction in the ball joint hubs, although there are also some friction pins in there which I'll try swapping out for non-friction. The fake motor works smoothly... If you switch the half-pins for Lego, otherwise the pistons go up but don't come back down. The CaDA pins have CaDA embossed on the part, which acts as a friction ridge. You could also smooth it with a sharp blade but obviously you shouldn't have to. I won't motorise this one. I learned from the red model team style Porsche (same author M. Schlegel but I'm afraid I forgot his username here, someone please tag him if you remember it?) that driving system brick models doesn't make a whole lot of sense. However, compared to the Porsche, this one has a really solid rear axle and I wouldn't foresee it having a problem with skipping gears at all. Edited April 6 by amorti Quote
amorti Posted April 6 Posted April 6 (edited) If you omit the few pieces intended to stop the front axles disappearing when you put the wheels on, then it is able to return. But only a little bit, because actually it turns out that the springs are too soft. Also, there's a dark grey 20t thin bevel gear that redirects power from the prop shaft to the engine. It's in a 12:20 ratio, but it should have been done with a 12:12, because the 20t gear is too big. It hits the ground first when you bounce the front suspension. I'm not sure if it clears the crankshaft though, with 12:12. So the motto for this build, particularly when you compare it to e.g. the Lego white Porsche, is that extra functions are great... When they actually function. Edited April 6 by amorti Quote
amorti Posted April 6 Posted April 6 (edited) So, I tested the CaDA springs on my kitchen scales. They peak at about 1150g of force before they bottom out. Lego springs are around 1250g. It's not a massive difference and the suspension still doesn't work right, but it does let it return just a little higher. That and a friction pin at the top of the shock to reduce slack (it barely rotates at all anyway), and the car will sit at a sensible ride height on the shelf. At least until the springs sag. Oh, and while I'm whining: the seats are held on by a single 1*2 plate, where there's space for a 1*4 plate without any further modification. Do yourself a favour and take two if those from your spares. Edited April 6 by amorti Quote
amorti Posted April 6 Posted April 6 Also... While I understand it's not easy to fit a differential in such a compact model, it's really uncomfortable even just pushing it around the table without one. Nevermind what happens when you add a motor. It would be better with 1WD, than that. Quote
Auroralampinen Posted April 9 Posted April 9 Well now we have new pictures of new cada sets in 2025 that red car wheel hubs look really amazing now im again really exited(source facebook) Quote
Lego Tom Posted April 9 Posted April 9 (edited) Oh.... more cars!! I'm excited - no wait, it was just gas. Where's the JCB220X???? Edited April 9 by Lego Tom Quote
MarkyMark42 Posted April 10 Posted April 10 Does anyone know the scale of these new sets? I know the Merc is 1/8 but what about the Mazda? Also, what is the red car? It looks a bit Maserati-ish to me Quote
Auroralampinen Posted April 11 Posted April 11 https://www.merlinsbricks.com/sets/c51093w/ https://www.merlinsbricks.com/sets/c55027w/ New cada sets:) Quote
brickphisto Posted April 11 Posted April 11 On 4/10/2025 at 9:50 AM, MarkyMark42 said: Also, what is the red car? It looks a bit Maserati-ish to me BYD Yangwang U9 (licensed). The tiny one is SC scale, the small one 10-wide (probably RC). Quote
MarkyMark42 Posted April 12 Posted April 12 19 hours ago, brickphisto said: BYD Yangwang U9 (licensed). The tiny one is SC scale, the small one 10-wide (probably RC). Licensed BYD makes sense being China I guess, Glad I don't live in the USA, it would probably cost $7k :) So BYD, Merc & Mazda are all 1/8 scale? Quote
blondasek Posted April 12 Posted April 12 Hello :) So, I was able to get c61507w for a good price, new - thank you @effermanfor replying to my questions regarding motorisation. I did complete the set and it looks awesome. However I have a "small" problem. No matter which position I do select on the gearbox, the upper structure rotates left and right. The selected function does work but the structure rotates as well. If I "hold it" in place while, for example, extending the boom, it does work. But I have no idea why it does rotate anyway. Did anyone encounter the same? I am sure that I did not switch gears while building the main box, so if there is no mistake in the instructions I have no idea what went wrong. I would appreciate any help or clues before going to dismantle half of it. Quote
efferman Posted April 12 Posted April 12 (edited) This is strange, because there is a wormgear in the rotating mechanism. So it should stay in place when it is not driven. Do you need much force to hold it in position? I guess the grey16 tooth clutch gear has a high friction and delivers torque without beeing engaged. Edited April 12 by efferman Quote
blondasek Posted April 12 Posted April 12 Not much force, but I feel that it does "build" the energy to turn when I am holding it. Thank you for the schematics, I will try to see if I can slightly move the clutch from the red gear when upside down, as this is annoying as hell. Also I did get a bunch of extra spare parts, like 5 u-joints, a few of beams and so on. Instructions have some issues, one part (used on connecting two rear axles on the turntable) has some molding problems and I had to slightly shorten the 3l axle in order to build it without any extra tension. One step has missing completely the required parts for it. Overall, it is really nice model. Personally I did not expect that the boom will go so far behind the base. A few flimsy things. I think I will just throw a bunch of Lego parts to make it nicer and feel "whole", specially on the back of the boom - there are a few pins sticking out and I will just add two round pin holes to make it nice. Thank you :) Quote
blondasek Posted April 12 Posted April 12 (edited) Ok, so it looks that the red gear has too much friction and the black axle rotates it. I have to find a way to replace it with some genuine lego part to avoid that problem. I do kinda wish I was aware of that potential problem before. My suggestion to the designers for CaDa here - @efferman, @eric trax (Eric, if you not doing that already) - please consider adding a step to check all of the functions and desired outcome of your gearboxes just when they are closing up and any potential problems cannot be discover upon completion of the set. Thank you! EDIT: as I did not have all my parts at hand, I did find a LEGO axle 5l with stop, on which the red gear spin freely. I did use spare part from the set to block the axle from falling out with half pin with pin hole. After that all works ok. Still a lot of grinding, specially in the upper structure and boom. As a first experience with CaDa I am moderately pleased. Will try again in a year or two. PS. what I am actually impressed about is how agile the model is with only one L motor and how small is the turning radius. Cudos to you, @efferman! Edited April 13 by blondasek Quote
Auroralampinen Posted April 14 Posted April 14 Well now cada has revealed the bigger Mazda 787B:) Quote
Aurorasaurus Posted April 14 Posted April 14 As usual with these bigger sets it has the optional motorisation. I wonder if it will work properly for once. I like the look of this one though, the flex axle on the front headlight is satisfying to me. Quote
Bartybum Posted April 14 Posted April 14 Bit of a shame it isn't in the iconic orange and green Renown livery Quote
MarkyMark42 Posted April 14 Posted April 14 1 hour ago, Bartybum said: Bit of a shame it isn't in the iconic orange and green Renown livery True, but I feel like that would require a LOT of stickers to make it work Quote
Bartybum Posted April 14 Posted April 14 7 minutes ago, MarkyMark42 said: True, but I feel like that would require a LOT of stickers to make it work Actually yeah you're right, it'd require a silly amount lmao Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.