Divitis Posted July 28, 2024 Author Posted July 28, 2024 (edited) #16 Sparse bodywork progress at the beginning of April, so about four and a half months into the making. To ensure progress on the technical side would not impede work on the bodywork later on, but also to break momentarily free from the 'tyranny of gears', I was regularly trying things out. Here are some of the early approaches to making sense of the bodywork, in no particular order. I generally don't like the look of flex axles, but I explored them as the only mean to get some of the curves right. None of these new panels exist in red! (still? yet?) The first clean-ish line I got on the rear mudguard! The best early exploration that probably won't fit in the end is this. Might it inspire someone else. Two dishes back to back held together by a clear transparent Spiderman web (the only bar piece in this color) and a transparent blue round tile (I don't have a yellow one). Here's the effect with and without led lights. So overall not much progress from these early attempts, but a stark discovery: This car has no 'anchor features'. It's not a Porsche that's immediately recognizable as soon as you see the lights, or a Ferrari Monza with its asymmetrical seat. You basically have to nail it all together as one. On 7/26/2024 at 8:24 AM, NV Lego technic said: The interior looks very nice! More complete than most 1:8 supercars. Thank you! Again, longer post than intended. Studio rant will have to wait. Next up: probably the fight for the real axle. Edited July 28, 2024 by Divitis Quote
2GodBDGlory Posted September 4, 2024 Posted September 4, 2024 Do you have plans to continue writing updates? I'd love to see how the build progressed! Quote
Divitis Posted October 17, 2024 Author Posted October 17, 2024 (edited) On 9/4/2024 at 6:17 PM, 2GodBDGlory said: Do you have plans to continue writing updates? I'd love to see how the build progressed! Somehow I'm only seeing this now, sorry. I think I got a little bored with myself, and also my second son got born, which sort of slowed down progress but now he's on a more decent sleeping routine so I hope I'll find time to make the proper reveal happen - funny how many seemingly basic pieces you realize you miss and have to order. Anyway, bodywork process is boring, you just sort of go through every piece in the color you chose until you find something that matches a curve and then go through every piece that combines with it to complement it. And then repeat until all combinations have been vetted and you can sleep a good sleep. The control base in nearly there too. Edited October 17, 2024 by Divitis grammar Quote
2GodBDGlory Posted October 17, 2024 Posted October 17, 2024 Looks good! I'd agree, bodywork is really where models tend to bog down, but yours does seem to be looking good so far! I like how you're not afraid to use System parts in it. Quote
Divitis Posted January 20 Author Posted January 20 I hope to find time to put together a proper presentation soon - 2 pieces are still in the mail. Meanwhile, a little tease. Positive caster + Negative camber. And a sad realization that came with full model testing: the steering wheel turns the wrong way and I have absolutely no idea how I can fix it! Quote
Aurorasaurus Posted January 20 Posted January 20 53 minutes ago, Divitis said: And a sad realization that came with full model testing: the steering wheel turns the wrong way and I have absolutely no idea how I can fix it! Maybe you can replace gears with a rubber band pulley system somewhere? Everything else is looking good to my eyes! Quote
Divitis Posted January 21 Author Posted January 21 9 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said: Maybe you can replace gears with a rubber band pulley system somewhere? Everything else is looking good to my eyes! I already use a pulley to transfer movement as nothing else fit (older cam design but the constrain to the steering, bottom right, is the same). However, thanks to your comment I realized I can simply do this. All those hours spent reading the Toranimaki on the toilet are finally paying off! Quote
1gor Posted January 21 Posted January 21 Hm...did you try new engine elements introduced with Kawasaki? Quote
Divitis Posted January 21 Author Posted January 21 3 hours ago, 1gor said: Hm...did you try new engine elements introduced with Kawasaki? Of course, but they're too long and the hood wouldn't close unfortunately. Also the 'ring' piece would collide with the 28t gear. So finally this was the solution: The development of the engine happened here, with the help of the community Quote
Rebel_Lego Posted January 21 Posted January 21 This is a very very impressive model! Is the bodywork strong enough to endure some lifting and moving around? Quote
Divitis Posted January 22 Author Posted January 22 15 hours ago, Rebel_Lego said: Is the bodywork strong enough to endure some lifting and moving around? It's solid enough for me, but please be the judge. :) As I hate to give answers with no proof, I started the day with a shake 'n lift test - both videos are at natural speed. PS: these are heavy gifs please give them a moment to load. Quote
Rebel_Lego Posted January 22 Posted January 22 The judge rules: solid enough! Thanks for the video's, it looks more fragile than it is. Very good work! Quote
1gor Posted January 23 Posted January 23 Well it is realistic; few weeks ago I saw new Ferrari 295GTB and when owner wanted to check something in engine bay hood stick just fell of...so no worries Ferrari is obviously a display model. At least your inspiration has real engine sound. Quote
Divitis Posted February 4 Author Posted February 4 (edited) Since it's taking me ages to complete it, I might as well show why. 1. Transmission to the real axle The u-joint sometimes snapped under stress - going full speed ahead and then reverse and keep doing so a few times. Now I switched to the heavy duty version and all is well, but the parts took a while to arrive. The silver lining is the redesign of the linkage system from the mess you can see in the first image to the cleaner version after - the design already improved things even with the old CV joints. 2. Bodywork (since the last shake test) I trust the inner structure to be quite solid, but some of the bodywork isn't up to the standard I'm going for. I tried to fool myself when commenting on the 'shake' gif a couple weeks back, but I soon sat back at the drawing board. Here's how some of the key 'panels' are connected after the extra tinkering. The side panel before (left) was connected by two studs and was the weakest of them all. Now (right) it's held in place with bars going into holes, and also better built overall - note the 3x3 round piece holding it together in place of the two round tiles. Things on the other side look a bit different due to the bracing of the gearbox, but I was able to implement the same principle. The tapered panel at side of the bonnet. This is simply a case of looking at things with a fresh eye and going "What was I thinking?!?". There was obviously a much better way to achieve the same spacing then those brackets. The connection is stronger then before, and the assembly is easier to put in place. The front mudguard (last and least) It hasn't changed in principle since the first iteration, but this latest version uses fewer parts then ever to achieve both the angle and the half stud spacing. Edited February 4 by Divitis Quote
Divitis Posted February 14 Author Posted February 14 Some more progress on strengthening the bodywork, especially its connection to the chassis. This is how the back was connected before: it rested on the yellow clip pieces and it was prone to disconnection both there and between the 2x4 tiles and the red pieces. Stud connections in general tend to become loose with rotational movement, which is inevitable when assembling the section. And this is now: bars and clips - very securely held in place - and also a sturdier connection to the two 3x13 curved panel which reach to the other side next to the seats. I can tell you, it was a very satisfactory 'click' sound putting it on. And it's solid! (big gif, give it a moment) This might be the final update here before I decide that I'm done... but please do challenge mercilessly so that I can improve things further! Quote
NV Lego technic Posted February 14 Posted February 14 The fact that this is an old Ferrari with a rally bouncy suspension is kinda wold to me.. also, that bodywork is looking very smooth! Quote
Divitis Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 Another improvement: the door handle. Maybe this little mechanism will be helpful for others too - a bit of education was also the intention with this thread. The half bush is actually very important. If the 2L bar insists directly on the 4L axle it eventually pushes it out. With this setup I can safely operate it like crazy during work calls 😁 The azul plate represents the red tiling, that's how thin the door is. And of course I need to buy one more piece... as an expat living far away from my childhood Lego collection I don't even have a gray 4x6 plate handy. On 2/14/2025 at 11:05 AM, NV Lego technic said: The fact that this is an old Ferrari with a rally bouncy suspension is kinda wold to me.. also, that bodywork is looking very smooth! Thanks! Regarding the 'rally' suspension setup, it think it comes down to the kind of roads they were racing on in the 50s, pretty rough by today's standards. Quote
NV Lego technic Posted February 22 Posted February 22 You're really overthinking everything and I mean that in a good way! Quote
Divitis Posted May 18 Author Posted May 18 The video is finally out. Also, a major mechanical design cleanup is ongoing. Will post about it soon enough. Quote
Divitis Posted May 23 Author Posted May 23 (edited) So here we go again. One post at a time, I'll share everything I found unsatisfactory with the "final" model (as in the video above) and the progress in improving things. First off: The real axle. The Ferrari drives noticeably slower in reverse than forward and the culprit seems to be the linking I iterated on many times. Still not that good, clearly. I managed to reintroduce the ball joint (which always felt truer to the original schematic anyway) by inclining it at the right angle to create the 1/2 stud offset that's needed to keep the car level. Kinda proud of the solution because it needs only 2 u-joints instead of 3 (before I was mentally stuck to using 2 u-joints to create the offset and one more inside the ball-joint, and there was no space for all). The grey thin 5l liftarm it rests on removes the inherent flex. As a bonus, now the switch lock for direct drive (yellow assembly with the grey 3L bar) is much more elegant and functions better; before it felt a bit fiddly. Side note: There is something very relaxing in perfecting a model. Small improvements are inherently easier to pull off and yet one leads to the next until the whole design is simply a better one. Next up: Sag in the front suspension. Edited May 23 by Divitis Quote
2GodBDGlory Posted May 23 Posted May 23 Great work! I really like having all the different drive modes Quote
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