MOD: 10173 Holiday Train whith PF

[spacepilot3000]

Good Morning Eurobricks,

while it is frosty cold outside here in northern Germany I have built the 2010 "around the christmas tree" train track the last few days. At the fanworld in cologne I got a 10173 holiday train, wich is the wonderful addition to my christmas diorama. Last year I got the Emerald, and therewith I got the PF system and non 9V tracks...

S@H had the following, to get me happy:

Power Functions Infrared-receiver No.: 8884

Power Functions cable No.:8886

Power Functions LED-Lights No.: 8870

Train Motor No.: 8866

My plan was to assign the motor to the holiday train tender like done here: http://www.carolinatrainbuilders.com/index.php/2007/12/powering-the-10173-holiday-train/

but because of the cable connector I had to make my tender a bit longer than in original.

My version, actually there are missing the side parts of the motor I still have to order - so it is a little bit naked ;-)

Adding the LEDs to the small train wasn't easy. I think I've done it without too much modding:

I the used the passenger car to hide the IR receiver and the battery, but here is room for improvements I think...

For now my version is working for me, but there are still problems to solve.

For example - when i build too sharp curves or run the train too fast the cables "tender to lok" and "tender to passenger car" are levering the engine out of the track. Normally here I would say the engine isn't heavy enough. I try to solve that today...

Nice Sunday for everyone!

Space

Edited November 28, 2010 by spacepilot3000

[Toastie]

For now my version is working for me, but there are still problems to solve.

For example - when i build too sharp curves or run the train too fast the cables "tender to lok" and "tender to passenger car" are levering the engine out of the track. Normally here I would say the engine isn't heavy enough. I try to solve that today...

Space

Moin Space,

wish I would be in Northern Germany, that is where I was born and lived for 35 years ... I love that part of the world the most. Where I live now they believe that moin means "Morgen" - au weia.

Now focus, or the Brickster will kick this post out ...

First of all, very nice job! I like the LED solution as well as the way your are "hiding" the PF receiver very much. That's the way to do it.

With respect to the cables: PF cables are nasty in this regard. They are way too stiff - here flexibility is needed. Yeah, the good old 9V cables were exactly that: Flexible. So whenever I have the chance, I use the PF extension cable to go to a short 9V cable (BrickLink) and then possibly back to PF (for lights and motors that works well. Just the intelligent stuff wants all 4 wires ...

I have struggled with this problem for a long time. My solution is shown below: I don't go with the cable directly from one car/train to the other, but rather in a relatively long "loop". The pictures show that for a BR23 engine/tender coupling, 7938 engine/passenger car coupling and GP40/GP38 train coupling.

It doesn't look great, but it works very well, on larger S-curves as well. You could further hide the cable, see 7938 - here the cable is barely noticeable, but can still freely jiggle around. This works also for PF cables when you "tilt" the wire 90° for the loop and then back on th other side.

Good luck with you project!

Regards,

Thorsten

[spacepilot3000]

Moin Thorsten, good Morning Eurobricks!

"Dascha n büx!Noch eener ut'em hohen Norden!"

Thanks for you support and the pics!!!

I have some 9V cables in my wanted list now. Looks like a good way!

I've tried to use larger "loops" with the PF cables for now, and it is working better, but still not really good.

But the best change for now are some screws... Yes, two fat, heavy, heavy M10 screws, I putted into the tender. Ok, I have to find a better way, but it seems like the winter train is really to heavy for the very lightweight PF 9V style motor attached to the also lightweight tender. With the weight of the screws my train isn't hopping out of the tracks anymore, and it starts and runs smooth, fast and secure.

Has anyone some ideas for what to use instead of the screws? It has to be very compact and heavy, and must be able to be invisible attached to the tender.

Cheers,

Spacepilot

[Holodoc]

Nice idea there, spacepilot!

I was able to get the holiday train in Billund this year and I'm thinking of motorising it.

Thank you for the inspiration. I'm still not sure if I prefer 9V over the PF or not.

For the IR receiver problem: Wouldn' t be "normal" 45° slopes better instead of the curved ones?

Greetings from the very western part of the country!

[Cecilie]

I've actually gone with a different approach, and stuffed all the PF components in the rear wagon. Since this one is hollow and just about the right size for the battery box, and even has a little "house" on top that almost fits the IR-receiver, it seemed like a good idea at the time, but I think it actually ended up a bit too heavy for its own good... Anyway, I used the PF components from the new Passenger train, and with a few modifications to the base and the house on top, I got it all in there (but it's quite a tight fit...). I only have a crappy picture of it taken with my phone right now, but if anyone's interested in seeing the result, I could try to take a better picture with my camera.

[Toastie]

I've actually gone with a different approach, and stuffed all the PF components in the rear wagon. Since this one is hollow and just about the right size for the battery box, and even has a little "house" on top that almost fits the IR-receiver, it seemed like a good idea at the time, but I think it actually ended up a bit too heavy for its own good... Anyway, I used the PF components from the new Passenger train, and with a few modifications to the base and the house on top, I got it all in there (but it's quite a tight fit...). I only have a crappy picture of it taken with my phone right now, but if anyone's interested in seeing the result, I could try to take a better picture with my camera.

Hi Cecille,

absolutely, lets have a look!

Regards,

Thorsten

[Cecilie]

Ok, here's an overview picture of it:

A couple of more views are available here.

It's not perfect in any way, but it works, and I can turn it on/off by pressing on the black 1x1 cylinder piece

[Toastie]

It's not perfect in any way, but it works, and I can turn it on/off by pressing on the black 1x1 cylinder piece

That is a very clever solution! I guess the entire train runs smoothly when pushed from the end, right? At least that was my experience when the cars in front are not too heavy. Nice!

Regards,

Thorsten

[Cecilie]

That is a very clever solution! I guess the entire train runs smoothly when pushed from the end, right? At least that was my experience when the cars in front are not too heavy. Nice!

Thanks

Yes, the train runs very smoothly, apart from the rear wagon itself wich seems to be a bit too short for it's weight (it looks kind of unstable when running, but it goes around the curves without any difficulties, even at high speeds).

[Toastie]

"Dascha n büx!Noch eener ut'em hohen Norden!"

Man, it goes down like - fill in what you want but - Lütt und ... hey, it's a small world.

Well with respect to the "load" takig care of your issues (never thought about that, but nothing is wrong with what you are doing) there is a LEGO compatible "Train Weight" (2x6x2) on sale on BrickLink - would that be an option?

Hau rein und - Tschüs

Thorsten

[spacepilot3000]

"Jou Thorsten, datt geit!"

And for all here on EB, who don't speak "plattdütsch":

I had a blue Lego City Container Ship in the 80's. This ship also had black 2x6x2 weights to get the ship swimming. After hours I found two of this weight bricks in my oldest Lego box yesterday... and they are working!

The train is running perfect now. I put the weights into the tender an changed only a few details for that, and now I can fire the holidaytrain out of the track at full speed.

With reduced speed it runs smooth and without hopping out of the track because of the cables or spinning wheels now.

I am happy!

[coateca]

Hi Cecilie (or anyone else who can answer my question),

I hope you don't mind, I have a question about the 10173 and power functions. I've had a search on other holiday train posts on the forum but can't quite work it out. Total newbie to trains and don't want to get it wrong

I own the 10173 and need to buy a track and a motor. Am I correct in assuming it will run on the normal track that lego sell these days (7499) (ie same gauge?). Also is it just the PF 88002 that I need? Then I rebuild the back carriage and it will run around the track by switching the PF motor on and off?

Sorry for my ignorance and thanks in advance!

[Paperballpark]

Yes the gauge is the same and it will run on the track lego sell at the moment.

in terms of power functions, you'll need 4 things. The battery box, ir receiver, train motor and remote control. Sorry, I don't know the set numbers off the top of my head, as I'm typing this on my phone.

[JopieK]

See this topic: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=84727&hl=%2Bpower+%2Bfunctions