[MOC] T-47 Snowspeeder

[Brickdoctor]

After a couple weeks of deciding to wait 'til Black Friday to get that windshield, I've finally completed it! It was heavily inspired by the design of Larry Lars, whose design for the nose and canopy are only slightly modified for mine. The one thing I really wanted was to do the wings in SNOT. This gave me a clean look and a ton of possibilities for the gun housing.

The first thing I did was build the wings, so I had a list of the things I wanted to have there. I wanted the snowspeeder to look very smooth yet angular, so I built it in SNOT. Then I added the greebles inside the top brake flaps to get some accurate detail in. For the guns, one of the things I wanted for my T-47 was an accurate barrel diameter. All the other designs use a combination of the 1-brick-wide and 1-bar-wide diameters, completely ignoring the 1-stud-wide width. Using that width did give me the ridges on the barrels that I didn't really want, but I think it was worth it. One of the things I knew I wanted to change from the norm of snowspeeder design was to do the cooling fins in the more accurate dk. bley and sloped angle. I was also really happy with how the lower air brakes turned out.

Finished November 2010, see more on Flickr.

C&C welcome!

Edited December 3, 2010 by Brickdoctor

[erik530195]

Great job. The front looks amazing, but i think it could be a little bit longer.

[XimenaPaulina]

Great job on this Snowspeeder Doc! The SNOT wings really stands out, and the gun barrell greebles (technic pins) look pretty accurate. The rear details are well done too.

[prateek]

That SNOT is amazing, and I love the angled plates. This is the best Snowspeeder I've seen in a long time

[Brickdoctor]

Great job. The front looks amazing, but i think it could be a little bit longer.

The proportions are virtually the same as the Larry Lars design, and the T-47 is supposed to be a fat, stubby craft.

Great job on this Snowspeeder Doc! The SNOT wings really stands out, and the gun barrell greebles (technic pins) look pretty accurate. The rear details are well done too.

The Technic pins actually aren't even accurate in their greebling; the barrel is supposed to be smooth at that point, but I wanted the accurate width.

That SNOT is amazing, and I love the angled plates. This is the best Snowspeeder I've seen in a long time

Thank you.

[Fallenangel]

This is fantastic Brickdoctor! The attention to detail is astounding, and your creation really captures the feel of the "real" snowspeeder. Finally, someone's made a minifigure-scaled snowspeeder that's bulky in the back and thinner in the front the way it's supposed to be!

Despite the fact that the wings of the studio model are actually very thin, I must say that the SNOT wings look quite good. It looks like the SNOT has also aided in capturing the size and angle of the large blocks near the base of the laser cannons. The inclusion of both the top and bottom flaps is quite nice, and the angled cockpit is superb, seeing as many other builders do not include that feature on their MOCs. Very solid transition between the wings and the cockpit, no gap like LEGO's snowspeeder. Great to see that you've separated the front and rear windows (although at this scale, I think it may look more accurate if you were to omit that detail, as the separation is quite thin on the studio model.) With the colored tiles in the rear, it looks like you've made an attempt at including the squad markings as well.

The guns are probably the best part of this MOC. You've got them exactly the right thickness and captured the shape perfectly. (If you could get them to slant inwards a bit it would be even better.)

Of course, I also see a number of inaccuracies, many of which can be simply fixed. Compare your MOC with the studio model below:

The most obvious error here is the slope in the front. I’m not trying to be offensive here, but it is important that you disregard erik530195’s comment. As you can see, the corner of the cockpit coincides with one of the vertices of the trapezoidal region in the front; in your model it looks like this is shifted back a stud so that the slope cuts into the cockpit. This is incorrect. I think this could be fixed with the 1x2x2 sloped bricks and some 2x4 wings, but I’m not sure. If you manage to get the corner to line up with the edge as I mentioned above, I think that the slope would be about the perfect size.

There’s a gap in the front; is it possible that instead of the two dark grey studs you could just put a light bley 1x4 plate there? (For the little dark grey bit, you could replace the dark 1x2 bley tile with a 1x2 plate with the rail, although I don’t know whether that part exists in that color.)

Similarly, it appears that the cockpit in the back is shifted forward one stud; as you can see, the rear edge of the cockpit only extends about halfway along the length of the blocks in the rear. The rear portion of the cockpit should be shifted forward one stud.

Going off of that, you’ve left the cockpit open in the back, even though the rear viewport is the correct size. This is unnecessary; as you can see, the deck on which the harpoon is mounted has a sloped portion that goes right up to the bottom edge of the rear viewport. I think that a few well-placed “cheese” slopes could fix this issue. (I’ve noticed that you’ve placed 1x1 tiles to represent the bumps on the studio model; impressive.)

The large blocks around the rear of the laser cannons are trapezoidal prisms; on your model, the innermost portion is angled inward towards the bottom. This is incorrect; they should be parallel to the deck on which the harpoon is mounted. This should also be true for the smaller bit in the front.

You’ve done a good job of leaving out a cut of the rear edge of the wing around the large round structure, but you’ve overlooked one detail; there should be a small bit to the left of the round structure. It looks like you’ve got cheese slopes and 2x4 wings there, so removing the outermost pair of 2x4 wings (but retaining the 2x3 wings) and replacing the cheese with a 1x2 plate would do the trick.

The radiator fins are not trapezoidal, but rectangular. Rather than using wings, simple 2x3 plates and 2x4 plates would be more correct. (On a related note, I see you’ve also included the pluglike structure below the innermost pair of fins – nice.)

The errors really are quite trivial, not really noticeable at first sight. But improving these small errors would drastically improve the overall look of your model.

By the way, Dack should wear the “generic” Rebel pilot’s helmet with two blue crests, as I’ve mentioned – what’s the design you’ve put there?

While you’re at it, I think it might interest you to see that the bottom of the snowspeeder actually looks like this:

To be honest, I didn’t know it looked like this, being only familiar with the grey bottom of the 10129 UCS snowspeeder. But this appears to be the final coup de grâce for 10129.

[lightningtiger]

'Brickdoctor' you have created one the finest T-47's I have seen in oh, a long time....it's the SNOT wings that bring this right of it's shell.

Excellent detailing, I feel the size is just about spot on too.

Anyway, keep up the COOL SW work and may the brick be with you !

[R5-N2]

Nice job... I really appreciate the rear...

Edited December 4, 2010 by R5-N2

[Rufus]

I think you've done a super job, Brickdoctor. I can forgive the little inaccuracies; the overall impression is superb, and accurate enough for me.

The radiator fins are not trapezoidal, but rectangular. Rather than using wings, simple 2x3 plates and 2x4 plates would be more correct.

I beg to differ:

They look like they slope outwards toward the bottom; maybe more steeply than the wedge-plates in Brickdoctor's model, but still..

We must also bear in mind there may be inconsistencies in the official studio models (like the 'Imperial Shuttle Dimorphism')

PS Thanks fallenangel for the underside shot!

[Brickdoctor]

Thanks Rufus, that was the one aspect fallenangel pointed out that I was going to defend, and now I don't have to scour the 'net for a pic!

They definitely don't slope as much as the ones in my model, but obviously there is no other wedge plate that would work there, and after comparing the sloped vs. straight fins side by side, I felt the sloped ones really helped the aesthetics of the craft and made the rear end look much more flowing, if such a word could even be used to describe an angular vehicle like this.

[Blackknight112]

Ice work.

Is there some detail on the bottom too?

[Brickdoctor]

Ice work.

Is there some detail on the bottom too?

No ice was used in this model.

More pics will come soon, but to answer your question, I plan to revise it, but the bottom is a mess of Technic bricks and clicky hinges.

[CommanderFox]

Great job rendering this beaut of a vehicle Brickdocter!

The snot to the greebles all make it fantastic, would love to see this in person and next to Larry Lars's version.

I love all the angles your've fitted into it, makes it look alot more movie accurate!

Keep it up!

CF

Edited December 3, 2010 by CommanderFox

[Fallenangel]

They look like they slope outwards toward the bottom; maybe more steeply than the wedge-plates in Brickdoctor's model, but still..

We must also bear in mind there may be inconsistencies in the official studio models (like the 'Imperial Shuttle Dimorphism')

Luke's speeder was one model, so I don't think that would apply here...

They definitely don't slope as much as the ones in my model, but obviously there is no other wedge plate that would work there, and after comparing the sloped vs. straight fins side by side, I felt the sloped ones really helped the aesthetics of the craft and made the rear end look much more flowing, if such a word could even be used to describe an angular vehicle like this.

Upon closer inspection, it looks like I was wrong. Sorry; it's hard to determine such a feature without having a physical model of it.

[Brickdoctor]

Great job rendering this beaut of a vehicle Brickdocter!

The snot to the greebles all make it fantastic, would love to see this in person and next to Larry Lars's version.

I love all the angles your've fitted into it, makes it look alot more movie accurate!

Keep it up!

CF

I could probably 'shop the two into a comparison pic once I take a pic of the top of mine, but I'd have to ask his permission first.

Luke's speeder was one model, so I don't think that would apply here...

Upon closer inspection, it looks like I was wrong. Sorry; it's hard to determine such a feature without having a physical model of it.

No prob, having built this thing from a couple pictures I understand. I actually was using the original blueprints from ESB reprinted in the Art of book; that was a tremendous help.

[CommanderFox]

I could probably 'shop the two into a comparison pic once I take a pic of the top of mine, but I'd have to ask his permission first.

That would be really nice!

CF

[Masked Builder]

Very smooth looking BrickDoctor! The guns look a little small but that might be me. All of the detail in this is amazing!

[MightySlickPancake]

Another fantastic model from Brickdoctor . One of the best snow speeders ever. The size is perfect and the snot is so lovely . great work .

Thanks, CB

[Walter Kovacs]

Amazing work Brickdoctor.

AT first I thought the cockpit was perhaps a stud too short, but on a second look, I think it is the correct length.

This is certainly the best minifig scaled Snowspeeder I've seen. I really should find Larry Lars' version before making that statement, though. Perhaps you'll get that comparison shot up soon, and save me a few moments of searching.

[Ritz Brick]

Cockpit seems a bit high.

Great none the less. I like the use of that piece on the ends of the guns.

[the Inventor]

Great work Brickdoctor,

I really like your mini-fig scale snow speeder.

The colours look great and you've really translated the model perfectly to bricks.

the Inventor

[Brickdoctor]

Amazing work Brickdoctor.

AT first I thought the cockpit was perhaps a stud too short, but on a second look, I think it is the correct length.

This is certainly the best minifig scaled Snowspeeder I've seen. I really should find Larry Lars' version before making that statement, though. Perhaps you'll get that comparison shot up soon, and save me a few moments of searching.

I think it might in fact be too short; the attachment for the harpoon deck and the cooling fins prevented me from going further back.

Cockpit seems a bit high.

Great none the less. I like the use of that piece on the ends of the guns.

I think most other cockpits are too short.

[marshal_banana]

The SNOT-wings are a nice improvement on the original design. Congratulation! The guns are spot on and fantastic! The only thing I'm not sure about is the top of the canopy.

I also had some problems with this detail...

Cheers! MB

[Brickdoctor]

The SNOT-wings are a nice improvement on the original design. Congratulation! The guns are spot on and fantastic! The only thing I'm not sure about is the top of the canopy.

[snip]

I also had some problems with this detail...

Cheers! MB

Thanks. I did hae trouble with the canopy, mostly I think because I decided to make it one plate taller than he original, but the 'real' one is pretty tall and it does noticeably slope towards the front.

[Brickdoctor]

Despite the fact that the wings of the studio model are actually very thin, I must say that the SNOT wings look quite good. It looks like the SNOT has also aided in capturing the size and angle of the large blocks near the base of the laser cannons.

Thanks. I was afraid they would look too thick and not blend well with the nose, but it turned out nicely.

Great to see that you've separated the front and rear windows (although at this scale, I think it may look more accurate if you were to omit that detail, as the separation is quite thin on the studio model.)

I debated on that. In the future, I want to SNOT the cockpit too, and use plate or tile there.

Of course, I also see a number of inaccuracies, many of which can be simply fixed. Compare your MOC with the studio model below:

[snip]

The most obvious error here is the slope in the front. I’m not trying to be offensive here, but it is important that you disregard erik530195’s comment. As you can see, the corner of the cockpit coincides with one of the vertices of the trapezoidal region in the front; in your model it looks like this is shifted back a stud so that the slope cuts into the cockpit. This is incorrect. I think this could be fixed with the 1x2x2 sloped bricks and some 2x4 wings, but I’m not sure. If you manage to get the corner to line up with the edge as I mentioned above, I think that the slope would be about the perfect size.

There’s a gap in the front; is it possible that instead of the two dark grey studs you could just put a light bley 1x4 plate there? (For the little dark grey bit, you could replace the dark 1x2 bley tile with a 1x2 plate with the rail, although I don’t know whether that part exists in that color.)

The slope won't line up, and that whole thing fit in so perfectly I decided not to tinker with it.

Similarly, it appears that the cockpit in the back is shifted forward one stud; as you can see, the rear edge of the cockpit only extends about halfway along the length of the blocks in the rear. The rear portion of the cockpit should be shifted forward one stud.

Going off of that, you’ve left the cockpit open in the back, even though the rear viewport is the correct size. This is unnecessary; as you can see, the deck on which the harpoon is mounted has a sloped portion that goes right up to the bottom edge of the rear viewport. I think that a few well-placed “cheese” slopes could fix this issue. (I’ve noticed that you’ve placed 1x1 tiles to represent the bumps on the studio model; impressive.)

The large blocks around the rear of the laser cannons are trapezoidal prisms; on your model, the innermost portion is angled inward towards the bottom. This is incorrect; they should be parallel to the deck on which the harpoon is mounted. This should also be true for the smaller bit in the front.

That whole area is messed up by the fact that the studs on top of the 2 x 2 x 2 slope I used protrude into the 4-wide space I reserved for the harpoon gun and deck. I decided to forgo perfection in accuracy and ease the transition an bit with the extra angles, if that even makes sense.

You’ve done a good job of leaving out a cut of the rear edge of the wing around the large round structure, but you’ve overlooked one detail; there should be a small bit to the left of the round structure. It looks like you’ve got cheese slopes and 2x4 wings there, so removing the outermost pair of 2x4 wings (but retaining the 2x3 wings) and replacing the cheese with a 1x2 plate would do the trick.

The 2 x 1 x 3 slope should ideally be a 2 x 1 x 2 slope, so I have space to add the other bit, but I'm fresh out of those in light bley at the moment. Something to change in v. 2.

By the way, Dack should wear the “generic” Rebel pilot’s helmet with two blue crests, as I’ve mentioned – what’s the design you’ve put there?

Don't have a Dack minifig yet, so that's a generic Y-wing pilot.

Thanks for the pic of the bottom, BTW.

EDIT: Original post updated with new pics.

Edited December 3, 2010 by Brickdoctor