Heavy Trains & Couplers

[Nicolas]

I am currently working on a rather long and heavy train. I don't want to reveal too with the specifics at this point, as I am waiting until its complete to reveal it. It is a 6 wide train and the issue I have right now is the magnetic coupler is not strong enough causing the train to separate. Can anyone point me to resources or designs I might use to handle using a stronger coupler. It doesn't have to be magnetic, nor does it need to be easy to separate manually. I am preferring a lego only solution. What are people using with larger heavier trains?

[AllanSmith]

I am currently working on a rather long and heavy train. I don't want to reveal too with the specifics at this point, as I am waiting until its complete to reveal it. It is a 6 wide train and the issue I have right now is the magnetic coupler is not strong enough causing the train to separate. Can anyone point me to resources or designs I might use to handle using a stronger coupler. It doesn't have to be magnetic, nor does it need to be easy to separate manually. I am preferring a lego only solution. What are people using with larger heavier trains?

If you are using the new type of coupler they have a stud on top. I used a 1 x 2 tile on the studs to hold them together.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

You can also use Technic Liftarm 1 x (5, 6 or 7) Thin

[Rijkvv]

If you are using the new type of coupler they have a stud on top. I used a 1 x 2 tile on the studs to hold them together.

I've heard the new coupler is already stronger. So even without placing tiles you should have an advantage.

[peterab]

I've heard the new coupler is already stronger. So even without placing tiles you should have an advantage.

My gut feel from experience is they're a little weaker. I have read they use a smaller stronger magnet, but it is enclosed in a plastic case, which means the force between the two magnets is less than if they were touching.

Adding a strong magnet between the two coupler magnets is a common method used by train clubs for really long trains, but it does use the non lego magnets.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

My gut feel from experience is they're a little weaker. I have read they use a smaller stronger magnet, but it is enclosed in a plastic case, which means the force between the two magnets is less than if they were touching.

Adding a strong magnet between the two coupler magnets is a common method used by train clubs for really long trains, but it does use the non lego magnets.

Do you mean something like the Geomag magnets?

[peterab]

Do you mean something like the Geomag magnets?

I'm not sure what they're called as I've never done it myself, but I'm pretty sure there is an article in Railbricks which explains how to go about running long trains. It might also include a description of the magnets.

[Nicolas]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I did try some magnets but they were not good strong enough and the train would become uncoupled on the front engine. The train is heavy and long enough that I need to power it from both ends for it to move well and the problem I kept getting, among other issues with derailing, was the front engine detaching. I have used some technic pieces to replace the couplers and that seems to be working now.

Hopefully within the next month or so I will share off the creation that is almost a year in the making.

[brenden perkins]

Something that has been done before (though non-Lego) is to use a slightly modified Kadee O scale coupler. It looks more realistic and I'm sure knuckles hold a lot more weight then magnets.

[jaster]

Have you tried making the train itself lighter? Use panels instead of bricks where you can and use one big brick instead of several small bricks. One 1x2 brick is lighter than two 1x1 bricks, for example. The difference is only .08 grams, but it all adds up once you do it enough. As others have suggested, make couplers out of technic; they will certainly be stronger than magnets.

[Brickthus]

I have used 5M liftarms and 1.5M dark bley Technic pegs for a while now and the scheme works well.

It's a length-for-length replacement for a coupling set.

One reason I used it was to avoid train detachment followed by the loco crashing into the portion that was left behind, next time it goes round the circuit! It's also good for keeping a rake of wagons together.

This coach, of which I have 4, is heavy and the scheme works well with them. The train takes 1300mA and four motors to pull it, so it's well tested for a heavy load!

Another advantage is that the parts are common, so if one breaks for any reason it is easy to replace. A lot cheaper than coupling sets too!

Mark

[Modulex Guy]

Order these little guys:

They are Neodymium magnets, place one in between every LEGO coupler, makes the hold 10x stronger and really helps long and heavy trains stay together!

No need to build new couplers, or modify parts to work.

[Sokratesz]

Order these little guys:

They are Neodymium magnets, place one in between every LEGO coupler, makes the hold 10x stronger and really helps long and heavy trains stay together!

No need to build new couplers, or modify parts to work.

Where can I buy those?

[LEGO Guy Bri]

This site, Rivertons.com, has free shipping. I'm not sure if that is the lowest price for the magnets but, other sites are also around $13 something per 20

[mendes]

If you want a pure lego solution you could use some of these:

Plate 2 x 4 with Coupling and Hook

Plate 2 x 4 with Coupling, Female

But as they were only made in red, they not fit in with your colour scheme.

[Sokratesz]

Or two of these:

And one of these: