Advice for Train Newbie: Power Systems & Motors

[rriggs]

Hi

I have had trains for a while now but have only today tried to MOC them. I have tried to add two motors to an engine so it can pull a long train. My motors run in opposite directions.

I have tried looking on here to see how I can overcome this but have only succeeded in confusing myself over what motors I actually have!

My questions therefore are as follows:

1. What are the differences between RC and PF and how do I know what I have?

2. How can I make two motors run in the same direction at the same time from the same remote?

I have only remote control trains:

7898 Deluxe Cargo Train

7897 Passenger Train

7939 Cargo Train

7938 Passenger Train

I have taken the motors from 7939 & 7938 and put them together in an engine but they run as opposites. Can anyone help?

Cheers

Rog

[L@go]

I am no expert on RC versus PF, but I can answer one of your questions...

2. How can I make two motors run in the same direction at the same time from the same remote?

...because I asked the same question here a little while ago.

You'll find several suggestions made by fellow Eurobrickers, but in the end I went with a polarity switch, and it now works just fine :)

Good luck!

[Kisvakond]

Hi Rog!

As fas as I experienced there is no proplem in case of RC-motor, as it is equipped with the old 9V type connector, so you can turn round one of them.

This is the RC-motor: old 9V type connection, no integrated lead, white wheel hubs, weaker than a PF-motor:

http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=x1688

If you want to run your train with two PF-motor - like me - they are two solution, as I experienced:

- as L@go also wrote, you can use the PF polarity switch (simply, but it requires more space in your MOC)

- or simply just turn round one of the PF-motor itself (if you can solve the problem of "front" PF-cable/wire setting considering the curve > you have to spare some space above the RC-

Train Base for the PF-cable (because of swinging) during passing the curves)

As build in 8-wide, this is not impossible to do this trick..

This is the PF-motor: integrated PF-lead, orange wheel hubs, stronger:

http://www.bricklink...em.asp?P=x1688a

Keep trainin'!

Edited August 7, 2011 by Kisvakond

[rriggs]

Thanks for the replies guys. So it would seem that I have two RC and two PF train motors. I have used the two PF motors In my MOC which sounds good for power then.

I think I will have to try and turn the bogie around as I have no room inside for a polarity switch. I have two battery boxes inside to ensure full power to both motors so squeazing in a switch will be too much. I'll have to see what I can do with the cable as the cables take quite a long route to get between the battery boxes and there's no slack where I need it!

What do the switches with the arrow markings on top of the battery boxes do? I initially hoped they might switch polarity but they don't seem to do anything...?

Cheers

Rog

Edited August 7, 2011 by rriggs

[Kisvakond]

Ahh.. so use separate battery boxes, reciver, motors, etc.. not the RC Train Base from 7898.

OK.. all clear now.

.. What do the switches with the arrow markings on top of the battery boxes do? I initially hoped they might switch polarity but they don't seem to do anything...?

Yes, it's for switching the polarity too, but if you connect IR-reciever on the battery box, that will have no effect.

But I think if you use two separate channels of IR-reciever for the two PF-motors + set the two, small, black direction swich oppositely on your PF IR Speed Remote Controller you may have success:

So I suppose you can solve the problem of opposite direction using this controller too.

Edited August 7, 2011 by Kisvakond

[SavaTheAggie]

There is absolutely no reason to have two battery boxes powering a total of only two motors in a train. The standard PF battery box produces more than enough current to power two motors by itself. The only reason why you'd want to use two battery boxes is to extend the amount of time you can run your train, but it will not grant you any more pulling power.

If you want more battery life, go with the AA battery box if you have room, or use a custom non-LEGO battery holder to fit the 6 AA batteries inside.

--Tony

[hoeij]

I have two battery boxes inside to ensure full power

That makes no sense. It's much better to use one battery box.

Use AAA rechargeable batteries. They have lower nominal voltage, but can deliver more current than alkaline batteries. That translates into: a lower top speed, but higher pulling power (both of which are good for cargo trains).

[rriggs]

That makes no sense. It's much better to use one battery box.

It's because I didn't know which type of motors I had (RC or PF) and didn't know what the load on the batteries for each motor was. I didn't want to go to all the trouble of fitting two motors to find that there wasn't enough juice to run both at full power or that the batteries would get eaten up much quicker.

The solution was two battery boxes which do fit OK and ensured that I would have enough current for two motors and that I knew how long the batteries would last.

Thanks to this thread I am learning more and will try with just one battery box.

Cheers

Rog

Edited August 8, 2011 by rriggs

[rriggs]

OK. An update for you:

I have taken out one battery box and turned one of the bogies around. However I am now struggling with the cable from the bogie. I have tried running it back along the length of the bogie but it fouls on the side of the train base. There's not enough room to run it along the top of the bogie so I have run it forwards and up and in behind the nose of the train and then under the driver. It is invisible from outside but still fouls when the trains turns right.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Rog

[Snapshot]

OK. An update for you:

I have taken out one battery box and turned one of the bogies around. However I am now struggling with the cable from the bogie. I have tried running it back along the length of the bogie but it fouls on the side of the train base. There's not enough room to run it along the top of the bogie so I have run it forwards and up and in behind the nose of the train and then under the driver. It is invisible from outside but still fouls when the trains turns right.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Rog

Use a reversing switch as originally suggested. You should have room now you've removed one battery. Alternatively, modify a short extension cable by reversing the two inner wires.

Edited August 11, 2011 by Snapshot