Modifing 12v Track to Half-Length

[Sokratesz]

If you want to put a turn-in a turn you always end up with a half-length (8 stud) offset so you cannot connect the two with a switch point while keeping the parallel turn idea. Has anyone tried modifying a single straight (cutting / sawing / etc) into halves to fill this gap?

- Sok.

Like this:

Edited November 6, 2011 by Sokratesz

[roamingstop]

Why do you want to use two identical point sets? With opposing (left/right) this works... but the 'vertical' tracks (on your image) would be further apart by 8 studs...

Cutting the plastic track is easy - cutting and soldering the tabs for the 12V rails would be harder

[Sokratesz]

Points are just for illustration ;) You're still left with 8 offset even if you do it the other way around.

I cut up one piece of track just now, will have to see how it works.

- Sok.

[Andy Glascott]

My guess is that it would be rather simple to do - I cut a small gap into two tracks to act as extra isolating tracks for signals. If I eve want to use them as ordinary conducting rails again all I need to do is get a small amount of the conducting tape used to convert PF plastic track to 9v and stick that either over the gap or along the side of it. There are no adverse affects so far...

If you were to cut a track in half you could then use some of this tape to ensure current passes from the cut section to the one next to it instead of having to solder a new tab on.

Let us know how you get on Sok, it's something I might consider in future.

Andy

[Sokratesz]

It works fine..and eah it was really simple. Just use a very fine saw so you don't lose too much material. I used some aluminium foil to make sure the electrical connections were okay and the train runs fine :D

- Sok.

[Andy Glascott]

It works fine..and eah it was really simple. Just use a very fine saw so you don't lose too much material. I used some aluminium foil to make sure the electrical connections were okay and the train runs fine :D

- Sok.

Very useful to know, thank you.

Andy

[Sokratesz]

I'm gonna cut up a few more so I can vary the layout better, otherwise you'd always need symmetrical switches :)

- Sok.

Edited November 6, 2011 by Sokratesz

[Sokratesz]

Some pics: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/294334

[harnbak]

Very nicely cut!

I once bought a large amount of train leftovers with quite a few of these half-length tracks. I use them regularly.

[AJW]

Yes I have done this. It gives you much more flexibility with track layout, well worth doing:

I also manufactured a fully isolated piece so I could have two track loops connected physically but not electrically:

[Sokratesz]

I also manufactured a fully isolated piece so I could have two track loops connected physically but not electrically:

I'll probably do that when I build a hill - motors suck a lot of amps going uphill so a separate power supply for the ascending parts should help in not slowing the other motors down.

- Sok.

[harnbak]

...

I also manufactured a fully isolated piece so I could have two track loops connected physically but not electrically:

This is very elegant! I have done this by removing som metal in 1 end of 2 middle conductors and connecting these two modified ends. I prefer your method.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

I also manufactured a fully isolated piece so I could have two track loops connected physically but not electrically:

I do the same in my layout using two combined train conducting rails (Straight for 12v Signal) with rail interruption at end:

[

[Sokratesz]

Don't you get any trouble at the point where the motor is connecting the two circuits?

- Sok.

[AussieJimbo]

Oops...wrong.

:classic:

Edited November 11, 2011 by AussieJimbo

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

Don't you get any trouble at the point where the motor is connecting the two circuits?

- Sok.

No if you set the transformers to drive the train in the same direction and velocity (there is a good tolerance for the speed)

[Andy Glascott]

I've got two loops connected via points as well and all I've used is standard isolating tracks from the signal sets. Each loop has a separate power transformer and the trains run in opposite directions. To switch the two trains over, one has to run in reverse to make sure the current direction matches up, but that's all I need to do. The only slight loss of power on my layout is that one transformer runs two (completely unattached to each other) loops, and the tiny loss of power was such I decided not to get a fourth power pack.

Andy

[bricks n bolts]

Sorry to bump an old-ish thread but has anyone tried the 12v mods here : Veendam2007 ?

There are custom made curves and spliced switch points!

[harnbak]

Sorry to bump an old-ish thread but has anyone tried the 12v mods here : Veendam2007 ?

There are custom made curves and spliced switch points!

Although the switches look somewhat mutilated, the solution increases the degree of freedom:

I have always found it difficult to work with the 73696 and 73697 as they require tight-fitting or rails.

Furthermore, they are only suitable for 6 stud wide designs.

The Veendam2007 solution with the curved rails seems clever. I have never seen any customised conductors before.

Any idea how they were constructed?

[bricks n bolts]

Although the switches look somewhat mutilated, the solution increases the degree of freedom:

I have always found it difficult to work with the 73696 and 73697 as they require tight-fitting or rails.

Furthermore, they are only suitable for 6 stud wide designs.

Yes, I see what you mean, any train wider than 6 studs on the plain 12v points can cause collisions.

I believe having wide trains was a chief reason he (Jan Van Dijken) did this.

The Veendam2007 solution with the curved rails seems clever. I have never seen any customised conductors before.

Any idea how they were constructed?

Take a look at Railbricks page 20 and Veendam2008 as that shows the 9v solution for adding custom metal rails and also how I believe, just by looking at it, how Jan did the 12v conducting rails for Veendam2007. So the 12v conducting rails I assume are made from the same stuff as the 9v rails. This in turn was based on work by Ken Rice (see here) but Jan used a different brand for the metal rails but the same plate connectors.

The holy grail to me (as it would enable the first 100% new 12v track since the 80s to be constructed in full as well as potentially being both 12v and 9v at the same time - you could even run 12v and 9v trains in opposite directions ) would be constructing a 12v version of his entirely custom 9v switch points from Veendam2008 (i.e. this with conducting rails):

I imagine it would take a lot of time to work out, experiment and build and end in some very sore thumbs though.

Which is why I would love to hear from anyone who has tried already.

[harnbak]

This is very elegant! I have done this by removing som metal in 1 end of 2 middle conductors and connecting these two modified ends. I prefer your method.

So I have applied your solution to 10 of my (oldest and rusty) straight conductor tracks:

I must say that I admire your precision!

I could not achieve that with my wife's (traditional manual) jewellery tools

Additionaly, I need to construct 10 straight and 10 curved half-tracks for my upcoming layout.

Edited April 17, 2012 by harnbak

[Janco147]

Don't you get any trouble at the point where the motor is connecting the two circuits?

- Sok.

Maybe make the insulations not directly across from each other? So the motor passes over one and then the other insulation..? Just a thought, never tried this.