Retro using the12 volt system and being caused to use bad language.

[Locomotive Annie]

Bother! Bother! Bother!

I was so beautifully deceived at first because the 12volt contact rail assemblies fitted the RC curves perfectly. Then when I tried to add in a piece of straight track the contact rails seemed to be short on one end. No doubt all you wise and experienced Lego patriarchs are now smiling into your beards because I didn't know about this problem, but I certainly do now.

Finally I'm starting in on planning the main Kotanga town board for the Kotanga Tramway and the 12volt system is what I've decided to use, - at least for steam traction anyway, My overhead electric locos will all be working on the RC system.

I've been studying the Train Tech archives, namely; -

http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=38423

http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=31962

I got myself completely wowed by Ondrew Hartigan's modifications. Discovered that the clever 3D printed adapter available at, - http://www.shapeways...lego-rail3.html , - is cheap enough, but will cost me $NZ19.90 to get it sent to me here in New Zealand via UPS. So that's definitely not going to happen is it?

So I've decided to basically use Enlighten track and saw it up and mod it so everything fits, because as everyone knows cutting up clone bricks is not a crime. I will have to employ some of Ondrew Hartigan's methods for modifying switches too as I want the station yard at Kotanga to be laid out as economically on space as I can get it and actually look reasonably realistic as well. I have got some grey 12 volt rails and sleepers coming from Bricklink, but I mainly want those for flatcar loads rather than using them to run trains on.

Watch this space for diabolical track mods as I start in on building the Kotanga station yard.

Oh and by the way, who was surprised to see that I do actually own some genuine Lego RC track

Edited February 8, 2013 by Locomotive Annie

[bricks n bolts]

Ha, I'm just embarking on a similar project so can compare notes so far.

I've modified the bottom of the 12v rails (removed the plastic bridges that stop the studs fitting on) so that the rails fit exactly rather than being offset like you have.

I tried both with '80s and '70s rails, I do prefer the 'blue-on-bley' look

I tried this first on some old beaten up track that I didn't mind breaking :

Here is the bottom of the rails (you can see the plastic tabs have been 'rubbed out' with a file) :

This leaves the RC track intact and only slightly/invisibly hurts the conductive rails (you don't see anything from the top or sides).

My ultimate goal is to do this for RC switch points, this will take cutting the conductive rails and adding blue (or light grey) tile...once that is done we will have a complete alternative rail system.

I use RC wheels a lot as well as some original 4.5v/12v, and want to minimise the friction on the curves and speed up the trains a bit. One thing that I admit gets to me about 12v is the design of the switch points, being remote controlled is great, but the curve isn't ideal and the pickup contact could be better..

I also have a theory which I haven't tried yet - that if you take the 3D printed adapter (http://www.shapeways.com/model/454182/lego-rail3.html - which you can order in blue and not grey by the way!) and add 3 bits of flexi-track to the RC end you can then put one straight piece of 12v conductive track right on top to serve as a conversion from traditional 12v to our 'new 12v'.

[Locomotive Annie]

Hey that's great bricks n bolts, - so it seems I'm not alone in my madness

Rubbing out those tabs with a file definitely looks like the way to go. I hadn't gone as far as trying that with my experiments, but I will be doing so now.

I want to try modifying the RC points too as the original 12 volt ones are a wee bit on the pricey side and with the geometry not being ideal cutting them about would be a pocket wounding experience if I was to get it wrong.

I'm using a variety of wheels as well with my steam locos being fitted with 12volt and BBB wheels and my electric locos, passenger coaches and goods wagons being fitted with RC wheels, Yes it will be good to compare notes as we go along with our projects and it's nice to know that I wasn't entirely out of the ballpark with my ideas on updating the 12volt system.

[bricks n bolts]

Have some BBB wheels too, which will run my BR35 when I finally figure out the gearing, also want to put some on a crocodile design.

Looks like you might try 'grey-on-brown' track, I thought about that but couldn't be sure of the long-term availability of Enlighten track. If you do try it post a picture

Edited February 8, 2013 by bricks n bolts

[bricks n bolts]

Got my first ever flex track today. Noticed that the 12v curved conductive rails won't fit on (ignoring the underneath plastic tabs) but the straight ones will.

This is because the a flex track curved doesn't equal a standard curve piece, it's a couple of mm too long.

So flex track completely useless for 12v curves (and curves are what it was made for ..lol), it should still hopefully help make the conversion piece with a piece of 12v straight conductive rail. Have ordered that piece from shapeways, so should be able to confirm that soon.

I should have also mentioned that the grey 12v conductive rail straight doesn't need any modification for the above mod, only the blue conductive rail straight and both era's curved pieces.

Another thing I have noticed, is if you are going to use the grey era straight interrupt track with RC rails it's best to use this version (http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3242d) rather than this service pack version (http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3242b) if you want it to fit without modification.

I will probably end up making my own blue interrupt rails anyway...

Edited February 13, 2013 by bricks n bolts

[hoeij]

Another thing I have noticed, is if you are going to use the grey era straight interrupt track with RC rails it's best to use this version (http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3242d) rather than this service pack version (http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3242b) if you want it to fit without modification.

I will probably end up making my own blue interrupt rails anyway...

That's what I did, it's way cheaper, and it works fine.

[Locomotive Annie]

I must admit that the Lego flex track is something I have no interest whatsoever in buying.

Thanks for the tip about the interrupt rails though.

[bricks n bolts]

I must admit that the Lego flex track is something I have no interest whatsoever in buying.

I wouldn't normally but the £12 a box for RC straights Amazon UK offer beat the individual Bricklink and shop at home prices.

Besides we may need some (3 at least) for use with the Shapeways conversion piece

[bricks n bolts]

See below, theory was right about the 3 pieces of flex track combined with the Shapeways piece giving you a complete conversion section :

You can't tell from the picture but the Shapeways piece is a slightly different colour blue to Lego standard and not as polished plastic.

Here is a complete section joining to '80s grey :

And just for good measure, to '70s blue :

[Locomotive Annie]

Clever, very clever indeed.

[bricks n bolts]

Clever, very clever indeed.

Thanks, have you tried mounting '80s grey on Enlighten brown yet? Would love a picture as still can't make up my mind about the colour combinations.

Annoying, as unlike the grey/bley dilemma of 9v users we can't hide the colour differences with ballasting. I was going to go for blue on bley but am having second thoughts as now I have a long stretch of it, it doesn't look as nice as it did with only small sections. Bit silly, but don't much like the the light grey on bley look either....

[Konrad]

where can I get this shapeways conversion piece? It is EXACTLY what i need to join all my 9v, pf, rc tracks with my 4.5/12vs.

I run all my 12v trains on 4.5v with battery box cars so im not too concerned about powering the track, but i hate the hop and sometimes derailments when changing from old track to new track.

Edited February 23, 2013 by Konrad

[Locomotive Annie]

You can get it here. http://www.shapeways.com/model/454182/lego-rail3.html There are two versions, this longer one and a short adapter.

[Locomotive Annie]

Thanks, have you tried mounting '80s grey on Enlighten brown yet? Would love a picture as still can't make up my mind about the colour combinations.

Annoying, as unlike the grey/bley dilemma of 9v users we can't hide the colour differences with ballasting. I was going to go for blue on bley but am having second thoughts as now I have a long stretch of it, it doesn't look as nice as it did with only small sections. Bit silly, but don't much like the the light grey on bley look either....

Finally at long last I stir myself to take a photo of brown Enlighten track with a 12volt conductor rail.

I thought I'd better do something since I was in process of lifting it all and laying 12volt grey era track instead.

[bricks n bolts]

Finally at long last I stir myself to take a photo of brown Enlighten track with a 12volt conductor rail.

Thanks for that Annie! I still have a long straight section of blue conductor on RC bley. Think I'll be able to completely make my mind up when I've completed a loop of it, still need to buy some RC curves. It is very nice on the later wheels, did you modify some conductor rails for curved usage yet?

[Locomotive Annie]

No I haven't modified any conductor rails for use on Enlighten curves just yet as I want to finish this present piece of 12volt track laying first before I start in on properly laying any Enlighten track. I'm working on an idea for using umbrella spokes as conductor rails with Enlighten track at the moment which could prove to be interesting.