Train buffer mods

[riograndefan]

I was wondering if it is possible to disassemble the new train buffers and mount the magnet similar to the older 9 volt magnets?

I did a quick search, but could not find any info on this. Is it even possible?

Thanks,

Scott

[Phoxtane]

I don't understand - you want to be able to mount magnets that are similar in appearance to the 9v magnets? Or do you want to replace them with magnets of your own design? Either way, I'm afraid I can't help you

[Dan-147]

I disassembled the plow buffer beam on my Maersk locomotive because I wanted to install a Kadee ''O'' gauge coupler. Normally, I would have used a solution that did not involve modification of a LEGO part but I wanted to stay as close as possible to the original design out of respect for Pierre Normandin (the Maersk loco designer) who is also a member of my LUG (QueLUG).

It was quite a struggle to get the pin that holds the coupler out. I used side cutter plyers to bite in the plastic just above the pin head so I could pry the pin out. Since I hate to waste, I checked out what I could do to reuse the coupler. I sanded down the domed dimples on each side where the pin went through and then I used a round needle file to enlarge the hole to the size of a technic pin. The end result is a coupler with an end that resembles the end of a technic liftarm (a bit thinner, two plates thick). It would be possible to mount the coupler to a ''3 x 2 plate with hole'' with a ''Technic, Pin 3/4''. I could post a picture but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Dan-147

Edited February 18, 2013 by Dan-147

[riograndefan]

I guess I did not explain completely. The new style train magnets are pinned to the buffer. I was wondering if it was possible to separate the two without breaking them. And if they can be separated, has anyone mounted the magnets to a custom built truck. The older 9V style magnets and holders are getting expensive and I was wondering if there were any options.

Thanks,

Scott

Dan,

Thanks for your reply. I just purchased enough parts off bricklink to build two of your bulkhead flatcar designs. I was wanting to try this for these two cars- if it is possible.

[Spitfire2865]

I wish Lego didnt change the buffer design. As an American Railroad modeler, I have no use for buffers. I as well would love to see someones modification.

[Dan-147]

As promised, here are the pictures of the disassembled and modified coupler:

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_small.jpg

Here it is with a technic pin and a technic 3/4 pin:

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_pin.jpg

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_pin_3-4.jpg

This is what it looks like mounted to a Cale Leiphart style bogie:

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_bogie_1.jpg

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_bogie_2.jpg

As you can see, it mounts a little high; which might cause interference with the car's underside. Additionally, this could cause problems when coupling with cars that have regular couplers, be it old-style or new-style. Redesigning the bogie to mount it at a better height might not be easy.

Separating the coupler from the buffer beam implies a bit of LEGO mutilation. The following pictures show the use of side cutter plyers to pry out the pin. Before going at it with the plyers, it's a good idea to make two cuts with a sharp hobby knife as on the second picture (red lines).

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/removing_coupler_1.jpg

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/removing_coupler_2_cut.jpg

Please note that the side cutter plyers on the picture are miniature models. I used a plow buffer for my example because that is the model I have experience with. The plow buffer on the pictures was not hurt in any way as the pictures were just to show the method.

If you're going to be hacking at the buffer beam, a better idea might be to just cut the buffers off. The resulting piece could be easily used on the illustrated bogie by replacing the front tile. Here are a few examples from a discussion I had a while back on Flickr when I was debating if I would modify the buffer beams or go with Kadee couplers. I finally went with the Kadee couplers for a number of reasons; easier installation, no part modification, stronger link between cars and the possibility of remote uncoupling.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14163824@N07/4532547769/

Hope this helps you in your reflexion.

Dan-147

[riograndefan]

Dan,

Thanks for your input. Looks like I have a couple of options.

[zephyr1934]

Lego made it hard to take the magnets off to make it hard to ingest them (or at least to get a pair of them down to your intestine). I REALLY wish lego had made the actual buffers separate parts (keep the 6 wide bar attached to the coupler, but put studs on the end to attach the actual round buffers).

Personally, I am not against occasionally de-childproofing my lego. I have contemplated cutting down the buffer beam at whatever point is most convenient, either cutting off just the round buffers on the end, or cutting the whole 6 wide cross bar down to the point where it is two wide (basically the magnet attached to a 2x3 plate with hole). So far I have not had a need to do so, but those are my long range thoughts.

Then again, I also sometimes like the anachronistic buffers on N American trains, it just says Lego 2002 to me. But they can be a hassle when you are trying to build super detailed.

[Spitfire2865]

Has anyone noticed Lego has stopped selling the newer buffers on the PAB site? A bit odd IMO as all the rest of the train parts are still there.

Edited February 21, 2013 by Spitfire2865

[Locomotive Annie]

I have a good stock of the old magnets as well as the fork for mounting them so I'm not too worried. My mostly New Zealand prototype locos and rolling stock should only have a central Norwegian type coupler and no side buffers, but I haven't really figured out a solution to that as yet. I can see a razor saw being used at some stage, only I want to be be very sure of what I'm doing before cutting anything. The older fork mounted magnetic coupler as a close enough appearance to a Norwegian coupler to keep me happy, but those side buffers will have to go.

One of my locos carries a modern sealed type coupler and buffer beam assembly for purely experimental purposes though I don't see it becoming a trend as I don't fancy having to buy a brand new buffer beam and then have to saw most of it up.