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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Here is my first train related MOC.

It is a crossroad for plastic train track.

On following pictures it is shown in multiple color design, so if anyone wants to make his or her own copy, it should be easy.

090420131239.jpg

090420131243.jpg

090420131241.jpg

Here is a video test with locomotive from 7938 passenger train

I hope you like it. :classic:

Posted

I was not aware that someone made it this way already. After I was done, I've looked up online and saw some other ways to do this.

I've made it after several attempts with different techniques. This one was the first stable structure to do the job.

Posted

Looks like a great idea and a great build. While I've seen similar ideas, I've not seen one this efficient. The one potential weakness that I see is that the corner 2x2 tiles could rotate on the single stud connection below. Fortunately with the black 1x2 jumper plates underneath, you've also provided a solution, one could put 1x1 plates or tiles there to lock the 2x2 tiles in place. The one potential problem with the current design is the fact that this unit is not a clean and even 16x16, so it might not integrate well into a layout that is on baseplates, but here too, probably an easy fix- extend the 2x2 tiles until it becomes 15x15 on top.

EDIT: okay, one quick LDRAW later and we have...

crossover-idea1.jpg

(all three steps and ldraw file should be available once moderated)

Posted

It is not a problem that length is not 16 studs, because of flexible train track. I have used 2 pieces for 8 I've made for test, and everything went smooth. :classic:

Posted

I've had a 9V cross track on my Bricklink wanted list for ages, but they've always been too expensive to consider (given that none of my other track is 9V). Hadn't even thought of trying a brick built design, but your idea is inspirational. Might as well remove that from my wanted list then....

Posted

It is not a problem that length is not 16 studs, because of flexible train track. I have used 2 pieces for 8 I've made for test, and everything went smooth. :classic:

The problem is a lot of people do not like the flex track. It has its uses, such as here.

Posted

It is not a problem that length is not 16 studs, because of flexible train track. I have used 2 pieces for 8 I've made for test, and everything went smooth. :classic:

Don't get me wrong, I think your design is brilliant, and like you (or at least like your video) I too prefer to set my track on the floor. in which case the 10x10 dimension is not an issue. But others (like my club) mount the track to baseplates, at which point having multiples of 16 can be critical. So my little sketch was more just me working it out in my head how to easily extend your idea to fit 16x16.

Posted

The problem is a lot of people do not like the flex track. It has its uses, such as here.

i don't like flex track either, but sometimes it is convenient to have some for unplanned occasions, like this :wink:

Don't get me wrong, I think your design is brilliant, and like you (or at least like your video) I too prefer to set my track on the floor. in which case the 10x10 dimension is not an issue. But others (like my club) mount the track to baseplates, at which point having multiples of 16 can be critical. So my little sketch was more just me working it out in my head how to easily extend your idea to fit 16x16.

I prefer to set tracks on the floor at my home, but at my LUG's events, we mount them on baseplates too (except at our last event). I didn't had a chance to test this design with multiple custom train tracks, because i do not have enough 2x2 jumpers at this time... :cry_sad:

Posted

I prefer to set tracks on the floor at my home, but at my LUG's events, we mount them on baseplates too (except at our last event). I didn't had a chance to test this design with multiple custom train tracks, because i do not have enough 2x2 jumpers at this time...

One can never have too many jumper plates or headlight bricks!

Meanwhile, I was starting to get lost in dreams of "this would make an incredible curve" when I realized that I failed to account for the importance of the inside guard rail in your design that I left out of my above modification. The outside rails are 5 studs apart, but the lego track is more like 4.6 studs apart. The guard rails keep the wheels from wandering too far and getting in to trouble. So fixing my oversight, let me introduce v2,

crossover-idea1.jpg

(again, full instructions once moderated)

I believe the wheels will run on their flanges when passing through, but that is also the case in the 9v lego crossover.

Posted

I just build the crossing shown in the original post, and it works great. Need to try the one shown in the post above this also. The train will lack traction over a longer section, but I guess it's not a practical issue.

Posted

Just built the 16x16 sized crossing from two post above. On a tight track where the train is not done accelerating when passing the crossing, the train does quite some wheel spinning. Tested with yellow 2010 PF train with 4 small wagons.

Posted

Just built the 16x16 sized crossing from two post above. On a tight track where the train is not done accelerating when passing the crossing, the train does quite some wheel spinning. Tested with yellow 2010 PF train with 4 small wagons.

Good to hear, please do post photos of both builds if you have them. That's too bad about the slipping in the 16x16, though if someone NEEDS the 16x16 form factor, the original crossovers are still only about 2x MSRP.

Posted

An interesting solution. My worry would be though that it does not look that 'track' like as some other examples I have seen. Still if it works correctly and is easy to build it could be a good solution for some people.

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