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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Hello,

I always wondered if this was possible after reading about Chris Meyer's 9v backward compatibility for new plastic track. I haven't seen other posts about this; am I really the first to have tried it? I can't believe that.

Nothing fancy, just copper tape on the rails:

It's only a rudimentary test (having moved, I don't have a 9v train motor on hand right now), but it seems quite promising. Wide curves, anyone?

Posted

Of course it is a good MOD!!!, but a lot of people have moved towards PF nowadays. I like your solution very much b.t.w., but I have moved to PF too so I just don't have the need for it anymore.

Posted

Hm... do you know if anyone has tried powering PF from 9v rails? I'm thinking of trying a system with custom power pickups (kind of like these), pulling the 9v for PF from the rails instead of a battery box.

Posted

Actually, yes! Railbricks Issue 7 has an article by Thorsten Benter about doing just that - and I'm actually about to embark on exactly the same journey with the engine I'm working on.

http://railbricks.co...gazine/issue-7/

That's awesome! Thanks for the heads up! :excited:

Will you be using the LiPo battery like Thorsten did? I was thinking of running the 9v track supply straight to the IR receiver (after a bridge rectifier of course :wink:). Those rechargeable battery boxes are a hell of an investment, and I'm sure they can be tough to hide as well.

Posted

Yes, I was planning on using the LiPo, solely because I haven't got enough 9v track to amount to anything worthwhile. Alainneke, who makes those wheelsets you linked to, I believe connects the wheels straight to the motors like you're wanting to do. Since I'm more in the world of plastic tracks and power functions I'm making mine what I call "Electronically amphibious", equally as at home on both powered and plastic rails and able to take advantage of both. Only downside is, as you said, those LiPo batteries are indeed one hell of an investment.

A little more on topic, how well does the copper tape hold up over time and through heavy usage? I expect after a while it will wear through, but if the tape isn't too expensive I may try and give that a look as an option for more powered rail. Especially since ME rails and BBB rails seem to be a dream just out of reach...

Posted

Ah yeah, should stay on topic. :blush:

I don't have any of my trains here yet (moved recently), so I haven't been able to test it out. I come from a 9v train background, and I've been in the "midst" of motorizing my emerald night to work with my legacy track for the past 2 years. College. :hmpf_bad: I finally have a PF XL motor and a spare wire to cut up, plus metal wheels on the way. I'll see if I can't get my EN out here in a few weeks to test; that would be great.

Elsewhere I've seen talk that copper and aluminum don't hold up very well. I've used aluminum in the past and had no problems, but I largely used the converted pieces on sidings, so they didn't see much operation time. I'm trying copper this time because of its convenient dimensions. Stainless steel supposedly holds up the best, but I can't seem to find adhesive-backed versions of it (would love to know where I can get some if it exists). A roll of copper tape goes for about $7-$8 in retail shops. I got mine for ~$11 with free shipping (cheaper than retail store's shipping), since there is nowhere nearby that seems to carry the right stuff. I've barely put a dent in the roll, so you could say it's an inexpensive option.

I'll definitely post my findings on durability once I do some proper tests.

P.S. I hadn't heard BBB was getting into the rail market as well. Good to know there will be some healthy competition. :thumbup:

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