Andromeda Posted November 6, 2013 Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) I have decided to put together this thread for those of you who are wondering how to get inside and potentially fix your old 12V signal switch. This I think was the first incarnation of the switch, with coil like wiring and round sockets - not the later triangular The hardest part is removing the 2 x 8 studded piece from the top of the unit. You have to break the chemical welds that are in the six places shown in the picture. There is a slight groove around the whole outside edge of the 2 x 8, in the part that looks similar to a 2 x 8 plate. I was 12 when I did this so finesse was not high priority. I would suggest using a sharp blade and running it around the groove, then trying to pries it off. I haven’t tried this, but maybe drill a hole in each top corner of the bottom of the unit and use a tool to push the top off. I’d drill in the center of each of the stud locking corner circle(see blue circles on underneath photo and bear in mind that the circles are just off pic) With that done you need to flip it over and insert a small screwdriver into each of the three rectangular holes to un-clip the buttons. Don’t lose the springs! Operation: When the red ‘stop’ button(S2) is pressed, S2.1 is raised to connect with the negative(P-) rail. S1.3 remains connected to the positive(P+) rail, giving + on C3 and – on C2 to power the red LED. C4 and 5 are open circuit at this time – stopping the train, and C1 is not used. When the green ‘go’ button(S1.1&1.2), S1.3 is raised to connect with the negative(P-) rail. S2 remain connected to the positive(P+) rail, giving - on C3 and + on C2 to power the green LED. With S1.1 depressed, C4 & 5 are connected and the train moves! If you break any of the button clips then you can MEK/melt or glue another piece of plastic to repair it – see pictures. I have some other good tutorials here at Eurobricks on using MEK to solvent weld ogeL. If your button does not stay down then the little plastic nipple has come off of the bottom of the tube that the button spring sits in. A piece of wire twisted around and partially melted in at the sides was my 12 year old minds idea of a fix. Today I would use MEK to weld a new piece on. If you have any broken coils, if they are only in one place per coil, then place both ends side by side overlapping the coils by around 4-5 turns of the coil and press together. Good luck! Edited July 11, 2019 by Andromeda Picture 2, I'd F'd it up Quote
JopieK Posted November 7, 2013 Posted November 7, 2013 Thanks for this nice tutorial!!! When I finish indexing more of such a topics I will put it up including yours! Quote
LEGO Train 12 Volts Posted November 7, 2013 Posted November 7, 2013 Wow great to see the switch inside! Quote
Merkurius Posted November 11, 2013 Posted November 11, 2013 Is something wrong or is it just me who cant see the pictures enlarged? I only get the thumbnails? Quote
Andromeda Posted November 18, 2013 Author Posted November 18, 2013 Is something wrong or is it just me who cant see the pictures enlarged? I only get the thumbnails? It is not just you, the links have been refreshed. I used the same forum link code as before... Maybe it was a forum or image hosting glitch, it's working now anyhow. Thanks for all of your positive comments. Quote
feijidaxia Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) that right,I used the same forum link code as before... Maybe it was a forum or image hosting glitch, it's working now anyhow. Edited November 20, 2013 by feijidaxia Quote
Andromeda Posted November 20, 2013 Author Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) that right,I used the same forum link code as before... Thanks for confirming my sanity ! I have just opened up a MkII Signal switch, the triangular internal socket type ! I will dissemble and take photos, watch this space...! Edited November 20, 2013 by Andromeda Quote
JopieK Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 MkII? That sounds like an AVR programmer to me ;) Quote
Andy Glascott Posted November 26, 2014 Posted November 26, 2014 Sorry to bump an old thread but thanks where thanks are due, I've just successfully repaired a signal switch, thank you Andromeda. It was a simple fix, the copper contact strip had slipped and needed to be glued back in place. Quote
Andromeda Posted August 31, 2015 Author Posted August 31, 2015 That's great Andy, glad that my thread has helped you... JopieK, now we're just showing our age... No?!? Quote
sube82 Posted November 21, 2015 Posted November 21, 2015 Hello, can you please re-add the picture? I really want to see it but it's gone... Quote
Bloodwave Posted November 23, 2015 Posted November 23, 2015 Hello, can you please re-add the picture? I really want to see it but it's gone... Just click on the links and then click the "download" button once you are on Imgaeshack, you will get the images. Quote
bricks n bolts Posted March 19, 2016 Posted March 19, 2016 Hi Andromeda, Could you possibly rescue your images, even when I click download on the link through page I get a 404? Thanks in Advance Quote
Andromeda Posted April 13, 2016 Author Posted April 13, 2016 Hi People. I need to find the pics, re-host and upload. Please bear with me... Quote
pilgrim Posted June 9, 2019 Posted June 9, 2019 (edited) On 4/13/2016 at 2:57 AM, Andromeda said: Hi People. I need to find the pics, re-host and upload. Please bear with me... does anyone have these pictures of the remote open? I have three 12V Remote Control 8 x 10 with Switch Pattern -----> https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4707pb01#T=C&C=9 I managed to fix one of them! Now using a multimeter I get 12v-15v in input (side plug) AND 12v-15v in output (top plug) while pressing the buttons but the other two are still broken! I get 12v-15v in input (side plug) but I can't get 12v-15v in output (top plug) while pressing the buttons :-( I am trying to clean them, moving them but so far no luck! Inside pictures would really help! Any advice? PS thank you Andromeda for creating / sharing this thread. Edited June 9, 2019 by pilgrim Quote
pilgrim Posted June 9, 2019 Posted June 9, 2019 Damn, I don't have the courage to open that glued 2x8 studded piece without having even a single image to assist me. I send a curse to all the "image sharing services" owners such as imageshack etc. that destroyed thousands of forums by suddenly making their links stop working. I curse you! Quote
M_slug357 Posted June 10, 2019 Posted June 10, 2019 @pilgrim Sadly, this thread seems to be fairly old... So, maybe you'll have to live up to your handle's namesake and make the foray into forgotten territory...? Quote
Andromeda Posted June 10, 2019 Author Posted June 10, 2019 Or maybe not! Yes damn those image hosting websites that change their domain name. Good luck @pilgrim. Quote
pilgrim Posted July 10, 2019 Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) Andromeda! I have had a very busy month and only now I discover you fixed the pictures links! Thank you so much my lego friend! ^__^ .▀█▀.█▄█.█▀█.█▄.█.█▄▀ █▄█.█▀█.█─█─.█.─█▀█.█▀█.█.▀█.█▀▄ ─█.─█▄█.█▄█ Edited July 10, 2019 by pilgrim Quote
pilgrim Posted July 10, 2019 Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) On 11/20/2013 at 8:43 PM, Andromeda said: Thanks for confirming my sanity ! I have just opened up a MkII Signal switch, the triangular internal socket type ! I will dissemble and take photos, watch this space...! if I understand correctly: the "triangular version switch" has V-shaped metal inside the sockets right? (and feels cheaper pushing the buttons) the "classic switch" has O-shaped metal inside the sockets. (and feels very elastic pushing the buttons) I have both versions, but the broken one is the V-shaped! I suppose the opening process is the same, so I will follow this tutorial Edited July 10, 2019 by pilgrim Quote
pilgrim Posted July 10, 2019 Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) I was able to "unglue" the external border... but I can't get to unglue the inside side, just above the buttons! I am afraid that if I leverage, the buttons' plastic mechanism will break https://imgur.com/a/PRdZKHX Spoiler Spoiler Edited July 11, 2019 by pilgrim Quote
Andromeda Posted July 11, 2019 Author Posted July 11, 2019 (edited) @pilgrim The photos look like you have not broken the chemical weld in the five places shown in the first picture of my post? The top part(studs 2 x 8) slightly goes into the bottom, so the welds are towards the the bottom piece. I had messed up re-uploading the images. You have a gen 2 switch with triangular sockets, you will find a sliding circuit board inside, which has most likely got dirty or has lost/worn out its copper traces. Edited July 11, 2019 by Andromeda Missed information Quote
pilgrim Posted July 11, 2019 Posted July 11, 2019 (edited) 15 hours ago, Andromeda said: @pilgrim The photos look like you have not broken the chemical weld in the five places shown in the first picture of my post? @Andromeda thanks for your answer. I am sorry, my photo was bad. I think I did break the chemical in the five external places but not above the buttons. I think I am just too scared to break the buttons, they look delicate and inserted in the 2x8 piece in a way I don't understand. Spoiler Edited July 11, 2019 by pilgrim Quote
pilgrim Posted July 11, 2019 Posted July 11, 2019 (edited) I haven't any idea how to remove the buttons. I will just try to blow some air and give up. Spoiler Spoiler Edited July 11, 2019 by pilgrim Quote
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