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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Hello All.

Did have an old page for this around but thought I would put up a new one. So I am about say 60% though it, still another section needed to be added onto the end what will make it 4.4m x 2m.

enjoy.

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Posted

ohh the grass was a good idea but I dread doing it now. The time it takes and the brick count is crazy. but outcome make it more 3d, goal was to have little to no flat area like most lego layouts/sets

Posted

Indeed very nice job on the grass. I can only imagine what a patience that would have cost!

How do you drive your trains? I see a control panel with a few switches, but what's behind that?

Posted

Yes this a lovely layout :wub: as people have said the grass is an amazing feature. BUt yeah your piece count must be enormous! I think it's well worth the effect tho!

I look forward to the next update, happy building :laugh:

Posted

Very nice. It looks like a good layout to run on too (well, when you get that last bit in the far end at least, grin). I like the common bridge and your technique putting the panels front to front like that. It works well. And the ballast, so simple and yet it looks very good. Lots of other neat little features, e.g., the added top rail on the horse fences.

I would be interested in hearing more about the controllers. It looks like you've got your own remote switches (hence the control panel) but what is up with the 12v controllers on 9v track? If you don't have one already, it looks like it will soon be time to build a locomotive with on-board decoupling so that you can switch cars out.

Posted

Ahh the 12v, one big reason for that, the aux power on them to run my turn out motors also I had issues trying to find a aux power with enough grunt to flip the switches.

2nd needed the extra amps for some of my locos that run 4 9v motors at once on the same rail those 9v controllers are just not built like the 12v.

The leavers on the 12v are not just there for looks but they also restrict the amount of power I can run though them. So when that leaver and pushed all the way forward its not running at 12v. My club has tried and tested 12v controllers with 9v and as long as you dont run full tit and over load the weight of the trains you dont damage the motors. (also i dont care about burning out 9v motors as I can replace the internal gear for really cheap and about 30mins work)

On the extra bit on the end I still need to make I will also have a fiddle yard on another large table but at present that will just be track to store my trains.

On the extra bit what still needs to be made has a tunnel on a siding that leaves off to the fiddle yard.

Brick count for layout about 100k bricks excluding trains and cars and figs.

Thanks for all the nice comments, Well if you are in NZ it will be complete for next Octobers Auckland lego show. What means i still have a heap of work to do.

Also for decouples I might look at the model train work for some options as I have the Aux power i could put in some HO Peco ones, not to worried about this at this point as each of my train have a set rake of wagons. So it will be a matter of pulling them on to the fiddle yard and sending the next train on.

On a side note the back area when the bus stop is where my station is going. I am just waiting on more parts for finish the roads off and some odds and ends then on this and then mid bit is complete and then onto the end.

This station alone has 5k worth of bricks will cost about $400 NZ to make.

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Posted

Really nice layout, Lazarus. I love the 7997 yellow station MOD... might need to modify mine to look like that! Also, It's great to see you've built the bridge and Switch tower. I'm so happy someone actually built my designs besides me! :grin:

Keep up the good work!

Posted

@Kieran > Look at my topic for fix the 9v motors > http://www.eurobrick...us#entry1622708

@Murdoch > I fell in love with that signal tower when i first saw it, one of my first models I made for my set even if it does cost about $250 to make :-P, Bridge very simple and looks good.

Thanks for the nudge, I read that post a while back, looks to work really well

Posted

This is coming on well. When you just built the lake bit and the bridge I thought it looked bit boring, but now i see how it fits into the whole it is so exciting. There is so much good detail in here and it will look fabulous when finished. We need a video then of the trains going around!!! Especially over that bridge now in context! A really nice build, I am jealous of your space.

Posted

There is still a lot of detail left to go and buildings that are not shown here.

There was two things i wanted in the layout but has limated space one was a bridge and the other a tunnel. I have the bridge and have a tunnel that will lead off to my fiddel yeard.

Thats why the bridge was there and needed to build an idea around it and I think the camp site looks nice.

Posted

Hello Lazarus:

Great looking layout. I can't wait to see what happens next!

Could you describe more how you motorized your points/turnouts? I understand if might involve some non-Lego parts and I'm Ok with that but I would love to see the inside of the switch boxes.

Thanks much, Steve

Posted

Its done just with a RC motor the 3v ones that go in scalecric cars. Wire it to a Mom off Mom switch and away you go its simple but small and effective. The wiring is more complex the the motor itself.

You need to pop out the switches remove the resistance on the leave so it moves smothly and also lube it up and the small motor has enought balls to switch it. But you need to run a higher volt though it or it wont switch.

I dont know how long each motor will last but at like $5 each its no bigy. The test one i made i switch about 50 times and its still going, as you only power it for a seconed it dont blow it it from the looks well atleast not right away.

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