ScottishDave Posted February 25, 2014 Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Hi! This is an old MOC of mine - strictly speaking a MOD of Larry Lars' excellent snowspeeder model, which I urge you all to take a look at. He has provided instructions, and they are a masterclass in advanced SNOT techniques. I put the LXF file on Brickshelf in July. I notice that someone else on this forum has picked up on it: so rather than clutter up another topic, I thought this might be a good time to take some photos and do a full post. As I said: most of this is lifted straight from Larry Lars' design. However, I was never completely satisfied with the accuracy of Larry's MOC. The changes I made were: The sides slope all the way up to the canopy: The heatsink/grille at the back is angled slightly: The engines exhausts are positioned closer to the centre-line of the ship: The underside is as accurate as I could make it. One of these days I might SNOT it, but for now: The LXF is very similar to the physical model, but four pieces at the back would not attach, no matter what I did: To aid anyone who wants to build this model, here is a photo of one of the missing parts in place, with the top of the housing removed so you can see how it fits: More photos are available in my flickr set. EDIT: Brickshelf keeps on disappearing, so I've put the files in my dropbox folder: White: LXF XML Grey: LXF XML Thanks for looking! Edited April 11, 2015 by ScottishDave Quote
Nom Carver Posted February 25, 2014 Posted February 25, 2014 Outstanding details! I love how you worked with the angles of those plates. Quote
Brickdoctor Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 Topics like this remind me of how much I need to rebuild my version of the T-47 so I can display it on my shelf again. This looks great. Quote
TheBear Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Good job on the changes, everything you've done has improved the accuracy. I realise that the white vs grey question is a religious debate and there is no right answer, but I happen to think snowspeeders look better in light grey. Maybe they are supposed to be white, but in ESB they are very dirty and light grey makes a better contrast with the snow. If you take a look at this screen grab from the film you can see that the snowspeeder is practically the same colour as the AT-AT and much closer to Lego light grey than white. Edited February 26, 2014 by TheBear Quote
ScottishDave Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Good job on the changes, everything you've done has improved the accuracy. Thank you! I realise that the white vs grey question is a religious debate and there is no right answer, but I happen to think snowspeeders look better in light grey. In that case, you will be pleased to know that my snowspeeder can indeed be built in light grey with almost no part changes (the 18 degree 1x2 slope with slots needs to be in dark grey, but I think that's all). I have no strong opinion on this topic - I did have one in light grey for ages until I gave it to a young friend who needed one more than I needed two. I just wish Lego had (a lot) more parts in very light blueish-grey, so that we could all be happy. Topics like this remind me of how much I need to rebuild my version of the T-47 so I can display it on my shelf again. This looks great. Thank you! I'd love to see an updated version of your Snowspeeder, if you do rebuild it. Quote
Brickdoctor Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 By the way, how did you do the inward angling of the gun barrels? Is it just stressing of the connection to the bracket? Quote
ScottishDave Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Yes, it is done simply by stressing the bracket against the slope brick. You don't get much movement out of it, but it is enough to move the tip of the barrel a few mm inwards. Quote
el_jugador Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 Hi! This is an old MOC of mine - strictly speaking a MOD of Larry Lars' excellent snowspeeder model, which I urge you all to take a look at. He has provided instructions, and they are a masterclass in advanced SNOT techniques. I put the LXF file on Brickshelf in July. I notice that someone else on this forum has picked up on it: so rather than clutter up another topic, I thought this might be a good time to take some photos and do a full post. Thanks for sharing the lxf.file I really would like to build this version of the Snowspeeder, but a lot of ID-Numbers of the Bricks cannot be found when I upload the xml-file in Bricklink. Could you share your xml-file? By the way, do you know if there is a lxf-file of Larry's version? Thanks a lot. Chris Quote
Fuppylodders Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 While creating the xml file, there should be a row showing the ldd id number and the bricklink part number. One of those will have a part number while for the same part the other row will have a zero instead of a part number. Simply type into bricklink the part number that is in the same row as the zero and youll see what part it is supposed to be... Hoping any of that might make sense :) Quote
ScottishDave Posted April 9, 2015 Author Posted April 9, 2015 Thanks for sharing the lxf.file I really would like to build this version of the Snowspeeder, but a lot of ID-Numbers of the Bricks cannot be found when I upload the xml-file in Bricklink. Could you share your xml-file? By the way, do you know if there is a lxf-file of Larry's version? Thanks a lot. Chris Hi Chris, Sorry to hear that you are having problems. I actually didn't have an xml file... I didn't brickink the model from the lxf, I built it first then used LDD to document it. However, I ran the lxf through Superkalle's LDD Manager program (available on this very forum) to produce an XML file for you. I've put it on brickshelf and dropbox. I tweaked the LXF file also - removed the pilot, and fixed three incorrect colours. I've put the updated version of the LXF on brickshelf and dropbox. Be aware that if you are, for any reason, regenerating the xml file from the LXF, you will need to manually change part 3048 (from LDD) to 3048b (to get it into Bricklink). This may be an issue with LDD Manager - currently at version 1.25 and not updated since December 2013. And no, sorry, I'm not aware of anyone having made an LXF of Larry's original snowspeeder. I do seem to recall seeing an XML for it somewhere, probably on this forum - do a search and see what turns up... -- David. Quote
el_jugador Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 While creating the xml file, there should be a row showing the ldd id number and the bricklink part number. One of those will have a part number while for the same part the other row will have a zero instead of a part number. Simply type into bricklink the part number that is in the same row as the zero and youll see what part it is supposed to be... Hoping any of that might make sense :) Thanks for your quick answer, doing it again I recognized that it wasn't a problem of the PartID but of the color ID. For example bricklink has problems with the color ID 199 or 194. According to the lxf file 199 should be "Dark Stone Grey" but I can't finde it in the Bricklink color guide. :-( I tweaked the LXF file also - removed the pilot, and fixed three incorrect colours. I've put the updated version of the LXF on brickshelf and dropbox. Be aware that if you are, for any reason, regenerating the xml file from the LXF, you will need to manually change part 3048 (from LDD) to 3048b (to get it into Bricklink). This may be an issue with LDD Manager - currently at version 1.25 and not updated since December 2013. -- David. Hi David, Thanks for your help. I think the problem was the color ID. Trying with the LDD manager I noticed that the BL color is different from LDD color. So I'll give it another try! Thanks a lot! Chris Quote
atlas Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 el_jugador, I think lego calls what we consider to be "bluish gray" the colour "stone gray". Quote
el_jugador Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 el_jugador, I think lego calls what we consider to be "bluish gray" the colour "stone gray". Yes, that's right. With the LDD Manager it works fine, so now I got to find a store which has all these bricks. But I think I'll order the white bricks in light bluish grey, that's more accurate to the film. Anyway thanks all for your help! Chris Quote
Bricksnaps Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 this is superb...great work..I am a bit of a novice...do you ahve any instructions that you are willing to share? thanks. Quote
ScottishDave Posted April 10, 2015 Author Posted April 10, 2015 this is superb...great work..I am a bit of a novice...do you ahve any instructions that you are willing to share? thanks. I'm sorry, I do not have any instructions. However: if you open the LXF file in Lego Digital Designer and select "Build Mode" it will generate step by step instructions for you. I hope this helps... David. Quote
el_jugador Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 But I think I'll order the white bricks in light bluish grey, that's more accurate to the film. Well, it's not so easy as I thought to get the lxf file with grey bricks. I changed it with the LDD programm, changing any white piece to light bluish grey, but unfortunately almost half of them does not exist in grey colors. So I don't know how to handle this. On the other hand I have found the bricklist of Larry's grey snowspeeder, but it is a partlist text document and the other is a ldr-file. Has anyone an idea how to convert the file in a lxf-file or a xml-file to upload to Bricklink. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=472574 Last but not least, what do you think about the price, would it be cheaper with white bricks or grey ones? Thanks a lot! Chris Quote
ScottishDave Posted April 11, 2015 Author Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) Well, it's not so easy as I thought to get the lxf file with grey bricks. I changed it with the LDD programm, changing any white piece to light bluish grey, but unfortunately almost half of them does not exist in grey colors. So I don't know how to handle this. Well, that's odd. It worked perfectly for me. Here is the LXF file and the XML file. Has anyone an idea how to convert the file in a lxf-file or a xml-file to upload to Bricklink. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=472574 If you want to know how to open an LDR file in LDD, look in the appropriate forum. The "Section Index" post should help you find what you need! ] Last but not least, what do you think about the price, would it be cheaper with white bricks or grey ones? There is no way I can answer that! So much depends upon which suppliers have what bricks at good prices in your country, what parts you already have, and and so on. Perhaps you should run both the XMLs I provided through Brickficiency? Try this topic in the LDD forum for a tutorial on using Brickficiency. Good luck with your project. EDIT: I've put both XMLs and both LXFs in the first post. -- David. Edited April 11, 2015 by ScottishDave Quote
el_jugador Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 EDIT: I've put both XMLs and both LXFs in the first post. -- David. Thanks again for your help, I've just ordered the bricks. In white, because the part of the wings are easier to find and cheaper than the light grey color. Chris Quote
el_jugador Posted June 28, 2015 Posted June 28, 2015 Good luck with your project. -- David. Well, I finally built it and it's really great! Soon I will show some pictures of my white version with white stripes. Just one question about the front piece, I wasn't able to find out if it is really fixed or just put on the sides, so it falls of everytime you turn the ship around. Please let me know! Thanks! Chris Quote
ScottishDave Posted June 28, 2015 Author Posted June 28, 2015 Well, I finally built it and it's really great! Soon I will show some pictures of my white version with white stripes. Just one question about the front piece, I wasn't able to find out if it is really fixed or just put on the sides, so it falls of everytime you turn the ship around. Please let me know! Thanks! Chris Chirs, Assuming that you refer to the nose of the snowespeeder - the pair of wedge plate 4 x 2 and the tiles on top of them: Yes, it is attached. There are two pairs of stud jumpers under the nose: it joins securely to the front pair, but only rests on the back pair, due to the angle of the sloping wedge plate 6 x 3s on either side. I hope this helps. -- David. Quote
el_jugador Posted June 29, 2015 Posted June 29, 2015 Chirs, Assuming that you refer to the nose of the snowespeeder - the pair of wedge plate 4 x 2 and the tiles on top of them: Yes, it is attached. There are two pairs of stud jumpers under the nose: it joins securely to the front pair, but only rests on the back pair, due to the angle of the sloping wedge plate 6 x 3s on either side. I hope this helps. -- David. Thanks for your quick help, yes indeed, I was talking about the nose. Ok, it's attached, in the lxf-file it wasn't very clear. Here are some fotos: (still missing some pieces, for example the cristal top of the cockpit). https://www.dropbox.com/s/rxrpl4w43u6p6wh/Snowspeeder%20small.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/c6md3kmmc5lq8tj/Cockpit.JPG?dl=0 Quote
ScottishDave Posted June 29, 2015 Author Posted June 29, 2015 It's looking really good! Sorry that the nose attachment wasn't clear from the LXF - Lego Digital Designer balked at the "illegal" build. Quote
StarWars8Spoiler Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 I love the contouring in the front. I hope LEGO's new design in the fall looks more like this than their previous attempts. Quote
Warlord Sieck Posted August 9, 2015 Posted August 9, 2015 Really nice. i like how it looks nice and smooth and not too blocky like LEGO's previous attempts. Quote
one23one23four Posted February 16, 2016 Posted February 16, 2016 Great MOC, thank you for deciding to share the LDD file. I wish I had seen this version before building Larry Lars' snow speeder. In another thread you mentioned you're thinking about doing some modifications to the undercarriage. Could you please let me know if you're planning to post an update, because I don't want to order the parts for this speeder and then need to mod it again. I still haven't decided whether to mod my Larry Lars version like yours, or try LiLmeFromDaFuture's version with brick built wings. I think it would be easier to mod it with plates and I'm also not quite sure, that I like it with bricks better. Any recommendations would be welcome! Quote
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