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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Wow. Just. Wow. I'm truly out of words. So I'll just put on my armor, get my gun and wait for the mission. Can't wait to ride in those AWESOME vehicles!!!

Posted

Really awesome! This is by far the most accurate and detailed Cheyenne I have seen, and I have seen a lot:) I think the cockpit and nose are absolutely amazing, but hard to say what is my favorite detail.

Posted

Thanks everyone! I tried to build on the great work done by Babalas Shipyards, 2x4 and Havoc - but enlarged to full minifig scale. I also spent a long time studying Toromodel's reference photos, trying to get the proportions as accurate as possible.

Still alot that could be improved: I'd like to get rid of those holey wedge bricks on the front and replace them with a smooth SNOT panel. And I'm still not happy with my folding missile arms: They fold OK but they're not strong enough to fully support themselves in the open position. (I used some invisible cord to provide extra support for the pics).  I should probably study how TLG make the wings of the imperial shuttle and the large X-wing models: maybe I could copy some of those techniques using liftarms. But for now it's beyond my bricks. In 'The Making of Aliens' documentary even the original dropship designer said he wasn't happy with the missile arms - too fragile. It's funny they're simultaneously the coolest and the dumbest part of the design.

Anyway, thanks for the comments and stay tuned; I've got some more Aliens mocs in the works.

Posted

A suggestion for the missile holder arms, you could base it on some technic lift arms and put some tile on the ends on some half pins. That should be pretty solid. I hope that makes sense:)

Posted

Thanks for the comments all. @emilstorm. Yes that might work, but I wanted it to look good and be studless on all sides. It's always a trade off between strength and looks. Here's some pics of how it works at the moment:

13883293380_aef9bd047b_c.jpg

Posted

Actually, my hinge design is plenty strong enough: I'm using technical bricks pushed sideways onto plates which is a very strong connection (You literally can't pull them off even if you try!) The problem is with the arms when they're in the open position: Because the arms are diagonal, the heavy pods are continually trying to twist the arms off. The left arm is only 7 studs at it narrowest point (due to the flat cut-out needed to let the other pod pass by) and of course it's quite easy to twist off 7 studs. Basically the arms need to be strong both parallel and perpendicular to the axis of the ship.

Possible solutions:

1) Use overlapping plates: Tried it. Needed 3 layers plus tiles on top. Difficult to make interlocking flat fold. Studdy underside looks bad when open.

2) Use lift arms like the Imperial Shuttle which can be cross-braced. This might work although the wing edge would be jagged.

3) Somehow angle the bricks so they run diagonally in the same plane as the arm. This would be great but I couldn't figure out how to angle the bricks at each end.

4) Use superglue (Never!)

5) My current solution is to use a regular SNOT construction. This has the advantage of being studless - so looks nice and smooth in both open and closed positions. If I want to display the ship with the arms open I use clear nylon cord to help support the pods from above.

If anyone has any other ideas, or knows a way to angle the bricks, please let me know. Otherwise, I will leave it to future generations of dropship builders to ponder the problem.

Posted (edited)

I see your problem now, it helps to look at it on the computer and not my phone :classic: That is a tough one! I am thinking soluton 3 wolud be optimal, but very tricky. Excellent hinges by the way, I have tried what you did, putting the studs in technic bricks before, and yes that is strong! Now I can't stop thinking how to make these arms work....

PS That punk Spunkmeyer should know better than leaving his tools in front of an air intake :wacko:

Edited: I get it, poor kid :cry_sad:

Edited by emilstorm
Posted

4) Use superglue (Never!)

Maybe this would be my solution. A few years ago when I bought some sets on ebay I got real angry when I found out that some of the parts were glued. The auction text didn't mention that with one word. How can anyone glue lego parts? If you want to glue stuff, build a model kit! Well - when I build my APC, I changed my mind about this. I glued some of the parts for the moving side door. I think the mechanism is a little fragile and the door/roof part. + always came of. I didn't want to repair that anytime I was holding the APC in my hand, so I made this decission. Okay, gluing parts in a way is cheating, but I'm sure I will never dissemble the APC, so I'm okay with it if 1-2 bricks are glued.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Thanks all.

@smiffy: I don't think Lego would ever make a set based on a horror movie franchise - but thanks anyway.

It should be quite easy to copy from the plan view picture I posted. I'm sure you could make lots of improvements too: stronger folding arms, more rounded body, get rid of the seam where it tapers to the tail and use snot to get rid of the ugly studs under the tail etc.

14381972126_63eaf57888_c.jpg

There's also a much better piece that can be used for the air nozzles - but I think they only make it in LBG - see Red Spacecat's dropship:

14014912843_1040d0b132_c.jpg

AV-24B SeaHawk by Red Spacecat, on Flickr

.

Edited by Missing Brick

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