SNIPE Posted September 2, 2014 Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) Hi For the past 2 days I've been working on improving the 42029 pickup truck, I saw the pictures on Google and reckoned that it could have a front differential, after I got the LXF from ZBLJ (kudos) I saw that there was also space for a center differential so I put one of those in too!, Heh why not. and today I have been busy adding 4 wheel steering and suspension all round as well as connecting the diffs to the wheels. The body may need to be widened a bit but this model is excellent for modding so feel free to add your own to this thread. A battery box fitted in the back leaving room still for it to load things onto the bed. Ill be adding gears and the motor soon, he gearbox for the winch and bed can be built around as there is axles with space on them for some clutch gears and the clutch barrel. The rear shocks aren't in LDD. The drive layout is: front differential - transfer case (to engine and gearbox) - center differential - rear differential. Here's the pics: LXF file so far Big Images Edited September 2, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
Zerobricks Posted September 2, 2014 Posted September 2, 2014 Why dont you use original hubs for FWD or the older smaller ones? Also did you use smaller tyres? Quote
SNIPE Posted September 2, 2014 Author Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) The hubs have poor steering and suspension articulation. Wheels and tires are the same might add bigger ones not sure. I tried the hubs from the snowmobile but getting the steering rod attached to the steering rack is too hard as the steering rod is sideways due to how the hub is. The hubs from the 8448 could work but there rare and only come in 2's This way has better steering and suspension anyhow. Edited September 3, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
SNIPE Posted September 5, 2014 Author Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) Here's some real pictures, real life is better than LDD minus the sore fingers. And a video https://www.youtube....coVENsEg0f7K3Uw The front wheels are the same as the back wheels so that should be easy enough, I need to add more to the front chassis, and add the center differential in. Steering, suspension and Drive on on all 4 wheels. Edited September 5, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
Zerobricks Posted September 5, 2014 Posted September 5, 2014 Not bad. I suggest you to use 5,5 axles because those cant slip out. Quote
SNIPE Posted September 21, 2014 Author Posted September 21, 2014 Hi, Today I fixed the steering, drive and suspension so that it is has less parts and better geometry. The suspension arms are now 4L apart all the way along, and the steering back is moved AWAY from the differential by an extra 1L. Also the clearance between the bottom of the chassis and the ground has improved quit a bit. I'm hoping to add brakes somehow and you can see the mounts by the steering track rod ends. Pictures: [bIG] The ball joint on the wheel end is 1L below the ball on the steering rack end, when the suspension is fully compressed it is 1L above the ball joint on the steering rack end I'll make an LXF file soon. Regards, S Quote
__________________________ Posted September 21, 2014 Posted September 21, 2014 Can you add portal hubs to it? Quote
SNIPE Posted September 21, 2014 Author Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) Nah, not really The UV joints and axle must be like this because if it isnt the uv joint will be obstructed by the suspension arms Also the UV joint pivot must be inline with the front ball joints on the suspension arms. Portal hubs will stick out a lot too and the steering and suspention will be worse with portal hubs Edited September 21, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
efferman Posted November 11, 2014 Posted November 11, 2014 on the dark side of the moon i had only a 42029 in my fingers, so i made a C model. its features are independent suspension, working steering wheel and hand of god. Ands beside this a 6zylinder Boxer engine Quote
Zerobricks Posted November 11, 2014 Posted November 11, 2014 What an awesome rail buggy! Nice alternative Effe, warming up for the competition? Quote
efferman Posted November 11, 2014 Posted November 11, 2014 Thanks A entry in the contest is not really in my pipeline. Quote
agrof Posted November 11, 2014 Posted November 11, 2014 I like that buggy Effe! I was playing around with the LDD model, and whispered some wishes for new colors... i made a red alternative too, maybe the owners got inspiration. Actually i am thinking about to add to my christmas list... (sorry if the pics are bit big, i don't find option to resize) Quote
Nalyd997 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) I like that buggy Effe! I was playing around with the LDD model, and whispered some wishes for new colors... i made a red alternative too, maybe the owners got inspiration. Actually i am thinking about to add to my christmas list... That would be quite expensive with 9 of the 5x11 panels in orange as they have only ever been in one set- the unimog. However it looks awesome though Edited November 11, 2014 by Nalyd997 Quote
Bevel L Posted November 12, 2014 Posted November 12, 2014 on the dark side of the moon i had only a 42029 in my fingers, so i made a C model. its features are independent suspension, working steering wheel and hand of god. Ands beside this a 6zylinder Boxer engine I love boxers IMO it's even better than A/B models. Nice work effe! Quote
Isamudyson Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 not much of a mod but a reconfiguration. was inspired to convert the customized pick-up to become a racing desert truck. This is only my second time making something that isn't fully following lego instructions. didn't put in any real function but moved the engine to the back, steering from the back of the cab to the hood added 2 more cylinders. Lengthed the front and cabin, shorted the rear and lowered the frame. hope everyone likes it. Quote
__________________________ Posted November 18, 2014 Posted November 18, 2014 Any more progress on this 4WD? Quote
SNIPE Posted November 18, 2014 Author Posted November 18, 2014 (edited) Hi The AWD is finished, Im working on the gearbox right now. I did try to put a 1x6 plate under the steering rack but there is no such gear that is small enough to then fit in the hole and mesh with the gear rack. I'm using a 5l Steering rack, shame it didnt work as the geomotiry would have been close to perfect but the steering arms are almost at the same angle to The suspention arms anyhow. The gearbox has 4 hi and 4 lo speeds and is extremley small (3Lx5Lx7L) but fitting it in and bracing it is very tricky . Regards, Snipe Edited November 18, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
Leif Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) Hi, Today I fixed the steering, drive and suspension so that it is has less parts and better geometry. The suspension arms are now 4L apart all the way along, and the steering back is moved AWAY from the differential by an extra 1L. Also the clearance between the bottom of the chassis and the ground has improved quit a bit. I'm hoping to add brakes somehow and you can see the mounts by the steering track rod ends. Pictures: [bIG] The ball joint on the wheel end is 1L below the ball on the steering rack end, when the suspension is fully compressed it is 1L above the ball joint on the steering rack end I'll make an LXF file soon. Regards, S Snipe, your setup has really inspired me and I have learned some new techniques. Finally! But I gotta ask, the setting above, is it final? as I see the pic, the inner UV joint does not align with the pivot of wishbones, right? Also, the 4L width setup of wishbones is great but the inner connection of wishbone are they really 4L? I cant do the math from the pic... Edited November 19, 2014 by Leif Quote
SNIPE Posted November 20, 2014 Author Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) Hi I will upload images of the final setup soon. In the last-most picture, the wishbones are 4L apart so the axle is 2.5L (which is in the middle of 4L) I've since made it 5 L instead of 4. This enables me to have more suspention travel & ground clearance, and to have the steering and suspention arms at a simular angle to one another In regards to the universal joints, I'm not sure if they are in the normal configuration, but it's the only one which really works, because they can be angled quite a lot without touching the wishbones, and because the front UV joint pivot is parralel to the frontt wishbone pivots, without that it would have poor turning radius and have little suspention travel & ground clearance. Edited November 20, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
SNIPE Posted November 20, 2014 Author Posted November 20, 2014 Here's the pictures: Regards, Snipe Quote
JGW3000 Posted December 8, 2014 Posted December 8, 2014 Does anyone know if Unimog tires will fit on 42029? I am concerned about the clearance, especially on the rear axles. If the answer is yes, I have 99% of the parts to build it! Quote
zux Posted December 8, 2014 Posted December 8, 2014 Here is comparison with different tire types Quote
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