HorcikDesigns

Instead of strict animal themed contest, biomechanics/"build like the Nature" sound much better to me. ;)

By the way, have somebody already spotted the 5L "comma-shaped" panel above the front bumper? Edit: Already have, one page before. Sorry for spam.

4.8mm is too small IMHO. I design holes up to 5mm, and some of them are still too tight. Depends on orientation and position during print, stringing, oozing, supports placement, part warping and seam position. And printer accuracy. Material properties put aside, heat shrinkage and water absorbtion make whole new level of mess in part accuracy. For axle holes is also very important the radius in corners near the intersection of the cross segments. 0.5mm is according my experience good choice for 0.4mm nozzle.

Aurapol has quite matching red, blue, green and yellow PLA in their L-EGO product line. Light gray is acceptable but not exact. Not sure if it is available worldwide, again, manufacturer is located in central Europe. @Krzychups Thanks for recommendation on DBG filament, have to try it instead of c-tech PLA that is really brittle over time and does not match perfectly.

@gyenesvi well, when I saw 24mm motor, I knew my duty. :D The length depends on the motor and back cover you use, the reduction block should be cube (24x24x24mm) if I remember correctly. The length varies between 8 and 10 studs, for 2435 version it is 9 studs. Regarding the reduction, in early design phase I was looking into compound planetaty gears or harmonic drive type of gearing, but after testing I am more then happy with 1 stage reduction (1:6). I the car I used it with 12/20 + diff + planet hubs gearing, and it is both strong and reasonably fast enough to melt some parts in the drivetrain, so I had to use ball bearings where it was possible. It damaged one CV joint (the new one). And it was jist the 2S lipo motor (or maybe hard braking). I have not made any measurements, but it definitely has some serious power. It might be too fast, but that could ve solved with motor with lower KV rating and better ESC. Glad you like my part designs. ;)

Thank you! It took me some time, because I wanted to save time doing it proper way as an assembly drawing. :D I positioned the parts and then made a screenshot that was then edited in photoshop. Doing it as assemblydrawing would be much easier. The reduction ratio gives 1:6 for 0.5module (40-16-8teeth )version and 1:5 for 0.6 module version (32-12-8) if I remember correctly. Parameters depend on the motor you choose. I run it so far with 2430 motor with 5800KV rating. Works quite noisy (maybe the teeth clearance could be tighter) but reliably. I have it in my EXP.SUV2 (for details see my IG (with short video) or Bricksafe, running on 2s LiPo). Different motors and voltages will give different results. To be honest, I am happy that it works the way I want and haven't made any measurements so far. The one I use is mostly for faster offroad and mild crawling like expedition or so. No extreme. But it also might be affected by cheap ESC I am using. The 0.5 module gears are quite common for mechatronic DIY projects, the 06 module are printable with 0.4mm nozzle at least I made that version because I accidentally bought and heat pressed the sprocmet on one of my motors and did not want to damage it while disassembling. Hope I answered all previously asked questions. It works with PLA, ASA will definitely handle more.

Hello brushless friends, I would like to show you my second version of adaptor for BL motors to be attached to LEGO MOCs. In a form factor of L-motor! (more or less) Inside the block is a custom built planetary reduction, you can choose whether you would like to use 0.5 or 0.6 module gears. 0.5 version is tested so far in oofroad 1.5kg vehicle and 2430 5800KV motor and works well. You can download and print the files from my makerworld profile. As you can see, there is some assembly required. https://makerworld.com/en/models/680795#profileId-609221

Exactly. Totally agree. But people (all, including authors of premium MOCs and those who complain) like to get offended by anything and put their rights and desires (usually not needs) above everything and sadly never accepting it is only their problem. So I doubt that the end of this debate is near.

Come on... As was said here before, it is ok to offer, it is ok to freely deciede to buy or not to buy, to invest my time into writing sheets of comments. What is good will remain, loads of garbage from people with no self reflect will be forgotten and reuploaded periodically - just like they do with so called "AIart". What is not OK is to say others what they must do or not, unless it violates rules and guidelines - like copying without crediting or selling other people's work without their permission. Yes, there it some gray area, where your actions will be judged by others, maybe discussed, but it is also OK - you can judge them too, and agree to disagree is also valid discussion end - come on, it is still a hobby. (yes, some authors try and some have made a serious business out of it. Good for them. Business and hobby are two different worlds. I can still freely deciede to support by commenting or even buing their work or not) As a creator of some MOC instructions I can say that making instructions is different type of having "fun" when compared with building. Thinking about new MOC as of a product to be sold is a challenge, but personally it takes some fun and joy out of it. So I encourage people who complain "make it free, your work is not worth a penny, but I want it" to invest their effort into reverse engineering my MOCs. There is always way, even if it is more difficult. And with standardized elements LEGO offers it is not too difficult. When I upload something to the internet (MOC BI or just photo), I automatically consider it away - anyone can access it, use it for personal purposes or part of it for their work - it is one of basic principles in design of any product: learn-copy-paste-improve/adapt. When someone use all my work with minimal changes it to generate credit (stolen instructions, reposted photos on IG, etc.), I do not like it, but if I know that I have not done anything to reduce the risk, I can blame just myself. To sum it up - it is a very complex topic, and I doubt we will agree on something any time soon. But, please, anyone who is offended by the fact of plain existence of premium instructions, try to accept that when someone want to spread and share joy of their hobby and do not consider the time spent on instructions as extra cost, then they can make it free. When they want to reward themselves for the time spent on the instructions, then they set adecvate (according to them) price to sell it, and buyers can freely deciede if they want to support them, or the price is too high. Simple as brick.

Good progress. But keep in mind structural stiffness and rigidity. So far it would be a nice and faithful to original static model, but for RC am I affraid that it would be torn apart by its motors or its own weight in first 2 meters. Unfortunatelly I still do not belive that your axles are stiff and strobg enough for truck this size. Have you built some physical prototypes yet?

Well, it looks like an interesting way to build Tatra chassis with differentials, but I must agree with Zerobrick's list of issues. And mainly with the enormous friction caused by the driveshaft acting like pivot axle for the halfaxles. The friction will be increased by not only the gravity, but also by rolling resistance - the whole half axle will probably act like lever pulled against the movement of the truck. And do not expect the pin and axle in the DBG adaptor part (61904) to hold all weight of the truck with 81mm wheels. ;) And the gearing is really good for manual model, but in case you would like to make it RC, the preformance will be probably very poor. Also the steering arm with 4L liftarms will be very weak spot. These parts like to crack in axle hole. But I might be wrong and you will build an excellent MOC with ingenious mechanics. The idea of mounting that rugged cab from Pacific truck on the Tatra chassis sounds kind of cool.Wierd (from point of view of a Tatra fan), but cool. :)

Voted! Well, it was really tough this time to arrange all the entries, as all of them are unique and great!

From bicycle with tricky connection point https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4719c01#T=C Or from the wheelchair - connects to standard 3mm bar-axle https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=24314pb01&name=Wheel Wheelchair with Molded Black Hard Rubber Tire Pattern&category=[Wheel]#T=C But they might be too big... But... https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=38799#T=C ... I was curious and found this one. Btw, All trans clear parts available on BL https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=P&colorPart=12&v=3

I have seen bicycle wheels used as headlighs some time ago on some MOCs.

Hats off, this is piece of some serious engineering and skill. Good job! I add to the group calling for chassis pictures with emphasis to the drivetrain (especially area behind the motors) and axles.