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Princeofgonville ; I put an LXF file on my website (www.vayamenda.com). Using LDD, you can completely rebuild it. The only thing I couldn't include there are two of this part: https://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=x127c21#T=C They are represented by the red round plates. I hope you like the model :)

Thank you all for your nice comments A lot of work went into this, and I'm glad it hit the mark. That was very much intentional; some builders I know are collaborating, and building all their new models in the same scale (1:16 / 1:17). It all looks amazing together, and in this way I hope to contribute. It's great fun The fork can reach a height of 25 studs. And you're right, it can't actually reach the top shelf- but my main goal was reached; it can actually reach higher than it's own height when the fork is all the way down (19 studs), so it can go under a shelf it just put goods on. And nope, I just buit one. Editing to the rescue. Thanks! I also had a lot of fun building the pallets- they're neat mini-projects that don't take that much time to complete. It'd be a waste not to show it hopefully I can inspire others with their filming. I can pretty much say the same reading all your comments. You all made my day

So I prefer to build small. I managed to miniaturize all the functionality of a standard forklift (driving, lifting, tilting) into a chassis only 11 studs wide. One of the advantages this offered me (among better strength, speed and maneuverability) is that I was able to build an entire warehouse to muck about in. This wasn't always the plan. I thought I'd just build two or three containers to show off its functionality, and that would be it. Then, the Android Sbrick app crashed and burned (or at least, it did on my phone) and it took two months for them to update the thing into relative functionality again. So I had plenty of time to build some scenery. For the enthusiasts; I've uploaded a LXF file to Vayamenda.com so you can tinker with it. (By the way, if you're a person who has built a forklift, could you link me to a picture of your forklift in this view? https://www.flickr.com/photos/28134808@N02/26063611241/ I'm very curious to see how it's scaled relative to other people's MOCs.)

An old build of mine. At 1:50 there's a way to command two functions with a single motor; this may allow you to put all the functions you need in a tiny turret.

That was absolutely brilliant. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!

Well made. However, you really don't want to attach anything heavy to studs; I'd say that you'd need some more technic holes instead.

Jim; on my last project I needed a slightly larger photo setup than the one you posted. Like this:

You're both right, it doesn't qualify 100% to the official GBC standard. Part of it is the programming, for dumb reasons an empty spot takes the same time as a spot filled with a ball. Didn't really have time to overhaul that program, though. Thanks! This was built from the ground up to be transportable, hence the modular approach. In a way, it's programmable. The program takes an array, and acts on the numbers in there. This is how it interprets the numbers: 0 - advance one position, drop no ball 1 - advance one position, drop a ball 2 - Move to the top of the next line (Useful for skipping empty rows between letters) So, in order to make the machine print this: -OOO- ---O- --O-- -O--- -OOO- You actually need an array like this: 21001110101110012 (The first ball dropped is in the top left corner, then it moves down until the end of that row, and it starts on the top of the next row) At first I wanted to automate the process, (simply converting written text to machine instructions) but as it turns out, Mindstorm's arrays are tricky to work with. And, since I'm a fairly novice programmer, I'm not ready to move on to more advanced programming methods. At any rate, I'm glad you all like it!

As far as I can tell, this concept hasn't been done before in Lego. It uses just two motors and two sensors.

A bit more space would be nice. Right now I'm photographing a model, and that means I'll have to rebuild most of the room to get some space and a white background. Also, my parts storage isn't all that efficient; most of the time I just plonk the right containers on the floor and get my parts from there.

Very, very nice.

It's not perfect, but it's mine.

Some of these habits I can take or leave, but if there's something I've got it's overengineering. To illustrate: I once lost a race because one of my power cables got loose. Guess what won't be happening again? Also, if you tell me that 5-length axles would work perfectly well in this situation, I'm going to have to disagree. The ends of axles are a bit rounded, which makes it just a slight bit more likely that the liftarms might spontaneously drop off. In other areas of building this means that I constantly use technic axles with stops to minimize the chance of axles slipping out, and that even the smallest wheels will be connected with a three-pin part like this:

You're not obliged to do anything. Blocking him was the right call.

Hey, anything to get away from the eternal red and yellow.

At our Lowlug meeting, we already had a trial in this scale: I really dig the challenges that this scale gets you. You've got to build small and smart, but since the weight and size are relatively low, getting some good structural integrity and speed is a lot easier. I even had 2x4 tiles printed for every participant:

Apparently, the problem was with a faulty cable and/or connection. After some switching of ports/motors/sensors and cables everything is now running as it should. Thanks for the assistance.

Well, I'd hoped that things didn't go south so quickly, but here we are. The idea is that I use a single variable to set the state of my machine. Altering that variable should switch the machine to different modes. Right now, I have a single mode. Setting the variable to "1" should set the motor to a certain speed. 50%. Or 20%. Or even 1%, as in this example. However, when I tell the motor to run at any speed, pretty soon it increases until it's at 100% speed. It starts out at the right speed, and pretty soon it's running at max. Can anyone here tell me what's happening, and what the hell I'm doing wrong?

Good to see you're still working on it, it's a very original model, and it's been great to see all the iterations and improvements you've made. Perhaps consider giving the tracks some more support on the sides, like here: This will guide the tracks a lot more, so they don't misalign in front of the sprockets.

That is just so lovely! I missed it the first time around, but this is just excellent. I'm grinning ear to ear here. Please tell your daughter that she did a wonderful job decorating. This has completely made my week. I did some testing. If you mean "how much weight can it hold and theoretically not sink in perfectly still water", then your answer is 800 grams. If you mean "I want a stable craft that can move without tipping over" keep it at 400 grams. It all depends on how you use it. As long as you're mindful of the weight and the distribution of that weight (as with any boat hull) you'll be fine.

Very well made.

aeh5040; Maybe the next boat will have some rowing / paddle action :) Also, great fun to see so many boat topics popping up all of a sudden.

Absolutely not getting bored. Reading this with the utmost fascination.

With the wonderful weather we're having, and the very shiny new boat hull that Lego released, the time has come again to desperately try to keep all the electronics dry. To keep the weight low, I kept the decoration a bit sparse. (Also, massively recycled from Naida's Epic Adventure Ship) For storage and convenience, everything that sticks below the waterline can be removed with the two 3-length pins with bush in the back. More pictures can be found here. If you want to tinker with it, there's an LXF file here. Lego's new boat hull is very stable, and can even handle some small waves. It also provides a neat storage compartment that allows the electronics to be mounted as low as possible to increase stability. Using an Sbrick was very convenient. As I was filming in the full sun, on a very reflective water surface, PF's own infrared signals would be practically useless. Also, it can handle the load of the RC motor a lot better than the regular PF receiver. And if we're thanking third party hardware suppliers; I'm really happy with my waterproof Gopro thingie. It was great fun recording everything down below. By the way, does anyone know what kind of fish I happened to catch on camera?