unimog123

Nice track, not sure why you used three or four 8t gears for the steering. It makes the front axle standout the same or more than the front wheels so you can't approach climbing obstacles very well. Other than that it seems to be a good performing trial truck!

I like your idea of utilizing a pull back motor to power a drift car, I hope it works out!

Thanks everyone! I'm glad you liked the monster-truck-ness. The original tires and rims just looked too small for the size of the body and chassis, plus the ground clearance wasn't great so I used those tires instead.

Cool truck, nice use of the new tires as well.

Thanks, late video again...sorry https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zPGo8-dcM0&feature=youtu.be

I like all the functions it has, it's funny because I just finished my mini MOC using the same tracks as you and it came out to exactly 200 parts although I did have to simplify or remove a few parts beforehand. I'm using 38 on each side and with the track assembly holding the gears or cogs it comes out to 50 parts per track times 2 is 100, so half my parts already gone. Some how I was able to finish it, and I'm sure you'll be able to keep this MOC in the 200 limit.

I like the way this project is starting, should handle well on smooth surfaces without suspension- no body roll.

Cool car!! Looks like an old 1960s chevy muscle car, possibly a camaro? I'm surprised that you only get a few minutes of strong run time. I've driven my buggy motor under some heavy loads before and haven't had such a decrease in run time. Maybe there is a lot of friction on the motor in the drivetrain.

Nice job on this Hot Rod! I think a Hot Rod is a great first MOC and I am surprised more people don't build them. I often find myself wanting to build a rod. For a first MOC it has so many organic lines like Zblj said previously and you should be extremely proud of that since as you probably figured out, aren't easy to replicate! :thumbup:

Nice truck, I really like the color scheme!

Hi Eurobrick members, I would like to show you my latest MOC, a Toyota Hilux off road pickup: Uses 2 L motors, Servo, and Lipo battery and V2 receiver. The body can be taken, but not very easily: More info and pics at my website below. Also a video will be coming as soon as possible.

Finally a way to make small realistic 4wd cars! Great job! Looking forward to rally car, possibly a kind of hatchback style so you could fit an interior and still have room for battery box.

Thanks for your kind comments! Finally I have uploaded a video: Edit: correct channel name- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM-Fk-hcyzM&feature=youtu.be

I think I see what you mean D3K, I will try to implement that solution and see if it works. I guess I should Doc.

Theres been a lot of activity lately on this forum so I decided to share my latest build: A Jeep Wrangler 4x4- in a rock crawler kind of configuration. Here's what I have at the moment: I used a similar idea to what efferman had on his Mercedes G, by using the L motor as the supporting linkage to the chassis directly. And that means NO UNIVERSAL JOINTS leading to the axle itself, only for the front axle steering pivots do you need them, which if you ask me is the biggest restraint on rock crawlers made of lego as well tires. Now I've test driven this all over the place today and it crawls amazingly with a gear ratio of only 12/20 with no diffs and 2 L motors. The problem is that the front axle is too weak, the drivetrain is perfect, but the axle itself is not strong enough to keep the steering rack and axle/hubs from being pushed apart by the Servo. The U-joint and CV joint are also positioned a certain distance apart and this distance is not an ideal length for an axle to connect the two joints which causes me to lose steering after sometime. This is what happens- the 2L red axles are the only mounting point so once that looses connection the top part of the axle rotates over on itself including the steering rack. And even after all that I've had the wheel and hub come off on me twice so far while driving. Despite all these annoying problems it crawls exceptionally well and does not have to be geared down several times so it drives on flat ground at about walking speed. The body will be mounted pretty low, so the top of the hood will be right above the shocks to keep a low-ish center of gravity. If you have any solutions to these problems they would be appreciated, thanks. Just realized after posting that the WIP is wIP, Jim if you read this could you change it to (WIP) when you get the chance?