Canmorite

For $20? Ordered!

You guys are getting a little ahead of me! I don't at the moment have any other suspension arms, and the decision to not use portal axles is for realism - the next project is a crawler and that will definitely have portal axles!

Wow! Awesome work. Very inspiring for what can be created.

Thanks for all the feedback! I'll take it outside today to do some off-road trials... I think the transmission needs reinforcement though! @nstickyney Haha, very true! I am trying to figure out how to stiffen up the springs at this moment... considering buying some RC-style shock absorbers, hehe. @unimog123 The real 2nd-generation 4Runner (as well as up to the current ones, I think) have IFS (independent front suspension) and a solid axle rear. @TwentyLeggedHen Yes, the drivetrain needs work and strengthening. The Lego parts are not designed to handle this amount of weight, or tire resistance. I don't have enough parts yet to make a 100% realistic drivetrain, yet... I have to pick up a few more sets! The chassis is very stiff, but that was one of my goals! @dhc6twinotter Yup, love 'Yotas. We've got a '13 Tacoma now. Awesome truck, one I'd definitely like to model at some point as well. @timslegos Thanks.. we'll see about the body. I think my biggest challenge will be my paltry parts selection. @rm8 Thanks! Yes, I started it with four modules (front suspension & steering; rear axle and frame; transmission; motors) however upon joining it all together it was far too flexy for me. So I added some reinforcements and it turned into one very sturdy module.. everything should still be easily accessible: guess I'll find out as I think I need to add some reinforcements to the gearing.

The inspiration for this MOC is my (now-sold) ’92 Toyota 4Runner, video here: https://vimeo.com/17747639 This is my first-ever studless build, as I used to build a lot with Technic about 16 years ago, but have just recently revisited the hobby. The model is assembled from three sets: 8110, 9398 and 42000. I don’t have enough shifting ring parts to make everything work as I’d like it to, so this model will get revisited once I pick up a few more sets and can motorize shifting, add a central transmission diff (for 2wd, 4wd and 4lo), and figure out how to get better gearing for the main motors. The model is powered by two PF-L motors hard-coupled to a single output shaft. Power goes into a Sariel-inspired 4-spd transmission, before being output both front and back (due to lacking the parts for a central diff) for a permanent 4wd system. There’s a diff at the front, and a (manually) locking diff at the back. Front suspension is an IFS setup and comes mostly from 42000, and steering is performed by a PF-M coupled to a clutch gear to prevent tooth grinding at full lock. Rear suspension is again Sariel-inspired for a live-axle setup. Tires are 1.9 Axial Maxxis Trepador on Unimog rims. (Current axle articulation is fairly accurate based on what I experienced with my 4Runner.) The chassis is about 25 studs wide with about a 43 stud wheelbase. Overall model length should be about 60 studs which will be more-or-less in proportion to that of the actual vehicle. Current chassis weight is 1759g. The suspension settles a bit, so I’m a little worried that once I add the body it will be too compressed, but that’s something to tackle for later! More pictures at: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=539844

You can create a free account on YouTube or Vimeo and upload there... then just link or embed the code in your blog.

Sign me up for 4 sets of these!

Thanks everyone! Great community here!

Thanks - I remember trying this about a decade ago but not getting any closer than 3 studs... same situation now! Well that only too hours of reading and videos... might be able to make it work, though, thanks!

I know it can be done with those hubs, however I am trying to see if it's possible to replicate that design with normal parts... so far I haven't had any luck as the joints are too wide. How do you think your design could be adapted for regular parts? I am thinking of getting 42000 specifically for the suspension bits.

Is it possible to create a steered, driven and independent suspension (without the use of special ball-joint parts) that is closer than 3 or 4 studs to the wheel? I've tried searching but every design I've seen the pivot point is at least 3 studs away from the rim. Thanks!

Thanks for finding both the threads! I tried a search but it didn't find what I wanted!

Just getting back into Technic, recently picked up 8110 and 9398. (The Unimog lasted for a couple of hours before disassembly, I don't think I'll even build the body of Crawler, mostly interested in the suspension design!) I am mainly interested in making trial trucks and other off-road vehicle replicas / projects. I feel that I have a pretty good parts base, but am looking for some parts for more advanced suspension designs. I've got my eye on 42000 for the hubs and wishbone arms, and 42006 for the tracks. Of course, both sets will also provide a number of other useful parts. What would you recommend? Should I just buy the parts individually or go for the whole set to expand my parts inventory? Which sets have the most useful parts? Also, which motors do you suggest for powering the various creations? Thanks!

Glad I picked mine up! Handy of Lego Canada to have that "Retiring Soon" button!

My name's Raf and I just recently (like two days ago) got back into Lego, specifically Technic. Naturally, I have whole boxes of the stuff at my parents' house, but I've never owned a set since leaving home. So I thought I'd jump right in and got 8110 and 9398. In real life, I'm a wedding photographer (http://one-edition.ca/) and I also run a climbing gear review site called The Alpine Start (http://www.thealpinestart.com/) Stoked to be part of this community!