bonox

That''s fine - just don't complain when the parts weld themselves together. The only other way to get around it is to make the parts (piston and bore) so loose that you won't have much if any compression at low speed. For what it's worth, the start of this almost exactly parallels your description in the first post of the seizing of two parts at high speed with inadequate lubrication. (gets harder to spin, slows down etc etc) This last longer because it's rolling rather than sliding like the piston in the cylinder but the concept is still the same.

there's a reason all high speed moving parts in this world are lubricated and also why "oil-less" compressors don't last all that long. Lubrication isn't just about making parts slide across one another easily - it's also about removing heat, to either keep the dimensions of the parts in spec or to stop the lubricant itself from disintegrating. For amusement and learning though, hit youtube for "stir friction welding" as that's effectively what you're doing to those poor cylinders.

perhaps it's simpler if you understand that databases don't call out new elements, people call out new elements. One of the things people like is to be able to put sets together. If you have a set that requires a certain printed part, then you need to uniquely identify that part rather than just the underlying part shape/colour without the print. That applies whether you're TLG or a seller on a 3rd party site.

I don't have your tow truck in white, but I do have the original 5571 in white and think it looks great. Just need a door sticker :D

Probably a good time to say Thankyou Andrea for a beautiful model. I'm sure there are many more out there than you think, including one being built by this nutter (me) at a LUG show :) Didn't quite get it finished in one go.

hopefully it's just an old stock problem

if i've got parts, i'll build combination of real and virtual. If I have new ideas and don't have the parts, i'll use the digital model to work out what to buy, but I don't always get it right first time in the virtual. Some of the tools in stud.io are helpful in this regard, for example finding things that have limited support. (attached by one stud for example is a useful tool). When building for real and finding things that need to be changed, remodelling the digital model is called 'red pen markups' in the old terminology and can be a bug bear, but needs to be done if you want to follow later or share.

very impressive. The scale is certainly slightly intimidating, but it's really nice to see people tackling the stuff that most people don't with the big cranes - the extended jibs and the Y guy arrrangements. Bravo Sir.

I get the theory, but the (fake) photo shows a stud too big to do that - it's the diameter of the stop ring, not the stud. And I don't need any fingers to count the places where that would be the only solution

more to the point though, what would you use it for? It serves no purpose I can see

i'm not sure there are any - they were incorporated into the instructions for sets that included them, so try looking for those. It's essentially make sure the transmitter is assigned the same channel (from 1 to 4) as the receiver you're trying to control, then move the controls. If you want it to keep going, or want graduated speed control, use the train controller.

Very novel car shape - great rendition mate.

What lovely memories of my '71 IIA. The coloured knobs on the levers triggered thoughts of lots of fun times. Mine were much more faded though. I too would love to invest in your instructions if you choose to make them. Great model; well done!

join a lug, scour second hand ads, put out wanted ads, buy from aftermarket (ebay, bricklink, brickowl) or just plain buy from the factory.

you need an electric pulse. An old lawn mower breaking points style magneto will have about 6-8 volts on the primary side and via a coil, comes out at 300-500V to fire the spark plug. You could generate pulses with a small timer circuit and a battery or just a hand switch if you don't need speed, but you're going to need a coil to step up the voltage to your pair of wires. I should add that a general purpose spark ignition engine commonly has about 15000 volts on the secondary side of the coil. more compression tends to need higher energy impulses.

man, that's really cool :D

does it do the same thing if you use the train controller and wind it back from the problem side?

I can already hear a legion of fans reverse engineering it....

the picture shows a configuration that does allow the ends of thepin to "expand back", meaning the build is "in system" and will have no longer term issues if the picture doesn't make sense in your head, try building it.

any luck with the factory response? Response from LEGO SHOP 17 November 2017 Jordan, Consumer Services There is a fix for this! If the motor is not returning to center it is because it has been told that a new direction is actually center. To fix this it is important that the output is center positioned – this is indicated when the 4 dots at the output are aligned. To set the Servo in center position, connect it to an output with power ON but no control (for example on an IR Receiver that is turned ON). I hope this helps you get back to building!

given the thread title, I was expecting to see something like this

Grey - it's about 15,000 according to the digital model, but it's missing a lot of detail, so probably closer to 30,000 all up plus another 5,000 for a wagon and the little diorama is another 3 or 4 thousand amorti - The loco comes to about 20 kilograms. Each bogie has six motors powering a wheel each, and the whole lot is controlled by this dude

putting one of each next to each other here, the technic 31mm variant is quite a bit thicker than the model team variant. Given the rim sticking out the sides of the tyre in your photo i'm 98% sure you do not have model team rims.

Missing a lot of greebling and signwriting. The original question was based on the first image only. For Bluehose, it's a locomotive. I do have two iron ore wagons to go with it that together make a train. Thanks aeh5040 - i thought this fit the model team concept and it's about 30% technic by weight and is also self powered, albeit slowly, with twelve XL motors. - perhaps it should go into the scale model sub-forum instead. I was really just wondering about whether there was enough interest to justify me writing up a build history about it. Doesn't look like it.