veryrusty

In some ways I see style as very different to technique. I like to start with a few different sub-assemblies, front suspension, drive, gearbox, but in connecting them I always find something that needs to be more compact, or routed a different way and my sub assemblies turn into one big complicated assembly. I also seem to go through fads where I see a particular piece and because I have I find lots of uses for it. Perhaps these are both consequences of building by hand rather than digital.

I have to know how you did the stickers. They are spectacular!

I think model team is already back. The vw bus and mini cooper are the new model team.

I really like it. I would keep going. I don't think at the end you will end up with something that is unmistakably a Nissan Patrol, but i think that it more about the generic nature of the nissan. Doing so in a mid scale is going to be even harder. Keep trying, then modify and keep trying.

I think we had to go through studded to get to stud less. I'm glad that I can use studded beams if I want something model team style, but I think stud less was a step forward for compactness, complexity and doing more with less bricks. I think we had to go through studded to get to stud less. I'm glad that I can use studded beams if I want something model team style, but I think stud less was a step forward for compactness, complexity and doing more with less bricks.

Top work. Love the compactness.

I'm curious about your drive train. Do you have anyou closer up pictures? how are you transferring power from the level of your motors to the diff?

I did something similar not long ago. I suggest starting with the drivetrain/chassis and go from there. Once you have that sorted then build the body. Decide on your motor and battery placement early.

That is spectacularly compact. I particularly love the suspension mounted halfway along the engine. Perhaps for bodywork you could use liftarms with flexible axles through them, like the wheel arches of sheepos Caterham.

Your blue friction Pin on the bag on its own got used :)

Presumably you have lots of train and system Lego about. No reason you couldn't start with model team things and just add technic bits on the inside. 42000 or the new Lemans car might be a good start.

I think some of the issue is building inside out vs bottom to top. I mean who builds a car starting with the gearbox, then adding the chassis. It may not look straightforward to begin with, but is ultimately just as good. The tradeoff is that you get to build more realistic and complex mechanisms. And while it is comparatively easy in this Internet age to find mechanisms to copy, there are a lot of guys pushing the boundaries to build more realistic and complicated. Newer parts help with that. But we stand on the shoulders of those who came before.

21:10 33:6 10:4 23:3 26:2 2:1 Spectacular work from everyone. Some especially compact entries.

You sir win the Internet!

Beautifully done. Any chance of an underneath shot before you take it apart?

For me it was 8386, the Ferrari f1. I bought it for my wife for christmas, not having bought Lego for years. She thought it was a terrible gift. I still have the set and an ex-wife.

I claim I can probably motorise It. But I couldn't use power functions, and I'd have to replace the wings with something else and make them biggeR. And the landing gear would have to go, and perhaps the fuselage. But it would almost certainly be able to carry some Lego. ;)

Everyone, It's taken me a while to get this up here, but this is my first ever MOC. I wanted to build a car, but I wanted to build something unique. Then when I was flicking through a car book I was inspired. Something Australian (like me) , and unique (like me). A ute. Even more relevantly, they will be stopping manufacture in a couple of years time. My MOC is based on approximately the VE Commodore, which when it is not made of plastic, is still made of plastic and steel and looks like this: It is RC, and uses two XL motors for drive and a servo for steering. No gearbox. That's a bit scary. There's also a fake V8 motor, driven by the two XL's. It also has an opening boot lid using a linear actuator. And the moment you have been waiting for, the pictures. I think my picture taking is improving. It is built mostly from 8070, 42000 and 42029, since I'm still building my parts collection. Lets hear it for cheap red panels. I'm very keen for everyone's feedback. 2014-12-27 18.01.21 by veryrusty82, on Flickr 2014-12-27 18.07.07 by veryrusty82, on Flickr 2014-12-27 18.04.08 by veryrusty82, on Flickr 2014-12-27 18.06.01 by veryrusty82, on Flickr 2014-12-27 18.03.35 by veryrusty82, on Flickr 2014-12-27 18.02.16 by veryrusty82, on Flickr There are a couple of more photos in my flickr album. No video, it's beyond my current skill.

Brilliant. I'd be happy for the comics to continue without a model.

I am dissappointed. American supercars are meant to be grunty v8's that can't go round corners, while European ones should be high strung and break down frequently. Then the Japanese supercars should be as reliable and exciting as a Toyota Corolla. So an American car that looks like a European with the insides of a Japanese. Here's hoping it is not boring, unreliable and can't go round corners.

That chassis is spectacular. Minimalist and functional. I particularly like the use of the f1 suspension arms. How do the springs handle the weight?

That chassis is spectacular. Minimalist and functional. I particularly like the use of the f1 suspension arms. How do the springs handle the weight?

So, not long ago on one of drjb's philosophical topics I had the idea for a Lego cat. I'm fairly certain I don't have the talent to build such a thing, but I thought it would be fun to try. My thinking is that it would need the following features: - lie around a lot - sit - walk - demand attention I've had a good look at my cat and I'm pretty sure that he's probably more power functions than mind storms. I'm not sure how many motors I will need. I'm thinking possibly one for each leg or possibly one for each pair and another each for tail and head. Linear actuators seems the obvious solution, but perhaps rubber bands on a cam might work better. I won't get any building done till after Christmas, but thoughts and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks for the ideas folks. I look forward to trying them out. Now to figure out where the other grinding is coming from.

I have been having the same problem. Any hints would be great.