ben20

Thanks for the advise. The connectors have good insulation and fit tight so there are no sparks. I'm using a 80W rc motor for the blade and normal Lego ones for the movements Yes that's the plan, some sort of wood factory :D Load the branches with my loader or crane. A wood chipper for waste (twigs) and some sort of vacuum to collect the sawdust

Hello Since a long time i combine Lego's with rc, and this is my latest wip. It's a automatic cutting machine that works in combination with the control center. Lego can't cut wood, so a steel saw blade is used I'm impressed how precise the control center works, as you can see in the video all branches have the same length after cutting. The fun part with the control center is that you can program the procedure and after that just press the button and watch the machine do it's job The concept works,so now it's trying out some good color combinations and finetune the machine. The saw blade motor can be activate with an automatic switch or a auto valve. But since i filmed inside, for safety reasons the rc option is used.

Rechargeable AA and AAA have both the same voltage/power. The thing is that original Lego Battery boxes and electronics restrict te current so you never have full power. It's just a safety feature. If you want full power you need BuWizz or rc electronics

I love when lego is mixed with rc, to have the model you want (body) but with much better performance. How come the u joints can handle the torque? I i use one xl direct to a u joint/driveshaft it instant snaps

The use of an airtank does NOT increase air pressure. You have more volume and so you can activate more cylinders at once with higher speed. But this at the cost of control, more jerky movements. Your compressor or hand pump needs to be bigger or on higher rpm

Give it a try! All the electronic components are tested and retested in all worst case scenario's. Also protectors against shortcut, overheating, etc are used It's made most for kids, so you can imagine Lego won't risk a claim of a burned house or other electric danger that comes with wrong placed electronics

Hmm strange, Searne his test show the opposite. Xl is weaker (clutch slips sooner)

Just saw the small version on Belgian tv, so i guess it is seen on a lot of country's. Great video and a real tribute for yourself. I follow your builds since almost the beginning, and saw it all grow. You deserve this in all kind of ways. What i do find a shame is why Liebherr don't promote this, nothing on their you tube channel. compared to Volvo and others who make all sort of cool video's with Lego (how it's build, specials, etc)

When you use a rc receiver you always need a esc to control your motors. This because you have 3 pins/wires (- + signal) and the motors consume more voltage the receiver can handle (it is possible without, but only for small applications like lights and servo's) In my loader i use a mix of Lego motors and rc ones, together with lights sound, etc. The options are endless what you connect to it

There is to much slack in the tracks, at 1.22 in the movie you can see. Remove one link, or give more tension would help

Yes indeed. No a bushing does not add extra strength to the gears, only to prevent axle sliding. But it works really good, no broken gears with this mod

Ow is it? Didn't check if the link was working. I should make new pictures then. But this one is the same

https://store.bricklink.com/Eezo#/shop?o={"itemType":"P","catID":"136","showHomeItems":0} http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/433674 If in a diff, try my mod, so you have double the strength on the 12t bevel. Always try to gear as much down AFTER the diff,. The new hubs would be perfect for you, so you have less stress on the total drivetrain

Here you have your REAL Lego metal as in a set bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=70644&name=Technic%20Hook%20Large%20Metal&category=%5BTechnic%5D#T=C They could have made it in plastic, but the builders at that time want that a crane can lift things., They want to make sure that the hook, where a crane stands for, was more than strong enough. The topic is not about the need for metal, yes the expert builder would like that, but it's about a piece driven by hand and show wear is no Lego quality as it should be

Only when on stress and on the wrong place. I use metal axles on my loader, This model is build to last. More than 100 hours of digging outside and a lot of stall in the drivetrain. I design and tested my model for this, to eliminate the weakest point. It's just the knowhow or if you want it to do as a Lego designer. That's the whole point, for this kind of model and price you can't say as an engineer,'no that's normal, wear on a 0.5km/crawler' If you put a brushless motor and drive at 50/km/h with 30000rpm spinning parts, yes that's overkill and NORMAL you wear out plastic after a while, but not on this one!

This was the first part i thought, 'hmm why you design this for, no creativity Lego?' (saw it in the 8421 crane on the boom, and said it to myself when comparing it to the 8460 crane) bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41672&idColor=11#T=C&C=11 And so it goes on, issue for Lego of cost to produce a (useless) part?... no!

+1, Like i said there is zero extra cost to design a stronger part. I grew up with the old technic, and for like 20 years or so there has been almost no new parts, you had to work what you have. It was the spirit of Lego, create creativity. Look at the 8868, air tech claw rig, such amazing shape, the blueprints on box, B model, so less and all normal parts you find in other sets. But since the swap brick to beam, a whole lot is changed They make or design a piece when they like, and most of the time no needed. If the old Technic designers had the machines and molds they have now, i'm 100% sure we would have superb parts well tested before put in production

The biggest problem of the wear is how you drive your model. Easy in door or extreme outdoor. If you are on a steep sand climb and turn when ridding up, there will be damage due to stress and sand that acts as a grinder. Also wheelie's are extreme bad for this type of joints. Compared to the universal joint they are stronger, a joint direct connected to an xl breaks, but indeed no or less wear with the older joint Yes indeed it's made for kids, but if you made such a model you know they will take it outside, and when design new parts why not test them hard?, is not that expensive. I don't get why TLG build parts that also suits the expert builder, i guess there is no person in the team that has that experience, otherwise you would design the part with four contact points instead of two, reduce the stress in half There are many parts that could be stronger at the same cost but Lego don't have intrest in it for a strange reason

Articulated steering combined with turned wheels was done in this model

Principe stays the same, just make sure 9v output and no 230 :D But the old lego train regulator or the control center is the best option

How do you mean 'to the battery box'? It's better to couple a pf plug to a custom battery, saves space :) https://scuttlebots.com/2014/03/02/lego-pf-hacking-wiring/

Because he wants to. The topic name said it. Not all has to be an exact scale model copy, or exist in the real world, many buiders enjoy making a model like they want And sorry for the off topic, ... M Longer you have superb builds, but i see a lot of time you replyd to a topic with a verry ironic twist in your posts, it is not nice to read by builders. Cool model btw, do you have a video?

Aewsome model and functions. The goal for a good compressor is high rpm and two pumps for a good air flow in your model is more then enough. An air tank is only good when you need no contol over a cylinder, otherwise you have or no volume in the circuit or to much

More soul :) And changed the wheel covers to M_Longer's version