duster408

Is there a higher resolution PDF of the building instructions for the BOBB3E? The one from Lego website is much lower than the other models. When I zoom in to see detail, it becomes too burry. The PDF for EV3RSTORM or GRIPP3R are much higher resolution and are clear.

Using Brickficiency for the first time and have a few questions but find can't answers. I open this .bsx file : www.snakebyte.dk/lego/instructions/technic/lathe/Lathe.bsx Five parts could not be identified and were causing it to cancel seach so I removed them from the list. Is that something I should have done or is there another way? It would then go through and find a store(s) for every part listed but no stores that had any group of parts. I understand that with 199 unique parts, no one or two stores would have all items. But isn't the idea of the program is to find stores that have say 30 parts here and 20 other parts there? I'm not completely understanding the calculating options of setting the minimum and maximum combinations but tried 1, 2, and 5 with same results. Can some of you open that .bsx file in Brickficiency and let me know what results you get? I had the option to query all countries selected too.

Does anyone know if instructions exist for building this lathe?

I didn't have the Lego Designer but do now. I'm using a 5th gen Macbook (2008) so I had to download 4.1.7 not the latest and greatest but it works. Thanks for the build! The Lego Designer is neat, I like how it can generate the step by step build.

Thanks! I should have known.

I want to change the single block piston engine in the 8855 to a four cylinder boxer engine as seen done in this post : http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74796 I'm great at following directions, even blueprints/drawings but terrible at designing. Before I order the parts to do this, I was doing some testing with the 2 cylinders and related pieces from a 8836. I don't want to use 3 pieces of 2905 to hold it together, don't like to looks of it. From looking at his other pics posted on Flickr, looks like he may have use one in the rear and two 6 stud blocks stacked on the front. When I tried, The distance from the crankshaft to the top or bottom cylinder mounting holes don't line up at they do with a 2905. Any suggestions please?

I have read that warning from LEGO but find it some-what hard to believe. LEGO uses ABS to make their pieces, the "B" in ABS is butadiene which is derived from petroleum. I could be wrong, I'm not a chemist. Since getting back into LEGO's, I was upset that so many of my models that I haven't seen or paid attention to in 15 years have cracked connectors (3651, 4265, 4273). What shocked me was those same pieces I had many extras stored separated in two fishing-tackle boxes are also cracked. They were loose, nothing inserted but yet have cracks.

I rubbed a tiny bit of baby lotion on the studs of one and tried it, much easier but after a few times it became too easy. No creak though. Oh well.

I brought out my 8855 I received new in 1988. It had been hanging built since then hence it had LOTS of dust. I disassembled and ran all the pieces through my heated ultra-sonic cleaner using water and Dawn Dish soap. I kept the temp around 105º F. After I inventoried the pieces and replaced several connectors that had cracked on their own, I started to assemble. The studded pieces are much tighter and creak compared to the new sets I have assembled in the last 3 years. Is it because the oils in the plastic have dried-up or did the older stuff have tighter tolerances? I thought about using something like Armor-All on them. Has anyone else had this experience? I have 8-10 other models from the late 80's to mid 90's I will be rebuilding.

I say try it out. I'm the opposite, I stand most of the day at work so I sit at my workbench to relax. I would highly recommend getting a mat to stand on. I use a 1/2" thick foam connecting blocks at work, much better than the hard rubber.