syclone

On the surface. It has recently surpassed Classic Space, Castle and Pirates in the Ideas 90th anniversary fan vote, passing into the final round. It's just many who are interested in Bionicle have their own forums, websites... I see a lot of Bionicle builds on Twitter for instance, even dedicated expos if I recall correctly. https://jaysbrickblog.com/news/how-did-bionicle-win-the-lego-ideas-fan-vote-an-interview-with-bzpower-admin-tufi-piyufi/ Quoted from the article - "To a lot of modern LEGO fans, this was a massive shock to the system, and if the conversations and comments on social media have revealed, there’s a massive disconnect between the mainstream LEGO fanbase, and the Bionicle faithful."

Welp, actually Bionicle basically pulled Lego out of bankrupcy... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bionicle#Launch_and_success Problem is, they had been "milking" it for a decade without much innovation, so eventually the new feel of it dried out. And the re-release was pathetic, much simplified and didn't get close to how extensive the franchise was in 00's.

Let´s see if we get some GBC/universal sets now)))

Please note that this modification requires using a knife and superglue, so if you are against doing so to branded pieces of ABS/rubber, I recommend avoiding the following topic. Long ago had started building a truck (lorry/ tractor truck, not a pickup) using 49.5mm wheels in LDD, but quickly realized just how oversized in width lego tyres are, since they are almost the same width as a double rear wheel on a truck. And since the 56904 rim has such excellent building possibilities decided to go ahead and fit one of the tires to see how they'd look. The end result was quite satisfying, being almost the required width (2 studs vs 1.7 studs according to Sariel's scaler) and looking excellent. And to get a more truck-like look for the front wheels a pulley with pins can be used: Here's how to mount it, despite the weak looks, it fits very well and does not fall off: TYRE MODIFICATION STEPS: - 1. Take the tire (without rim) and slightly squeeze it from the sides to bulge it out a bit, this will make it easier to make a clean cut. - 2. Use a precision craft knife to carve along the inside of the first line, the less material you leave at this point (the closer you cut to the line) the cleaner the end result will be. Here's what it should look like after being cut: - 3. Confirm a clean fit and remove any excess rubber, the two halves should fit together cleanly. -4. Use superglue and fit them together in sections, so as to make sure they are fitted correctly. I've used brandless superglue from poundland, is extremely cheap, works great and haven't observed any side effects (melting, breaking apart...), cures in 10s approximately, ready to use as is. If you feel like it's not strong enough (haven't been able to break mine apart, despite stretching them on and off the rims a considerable amount of times and even squeezing them in my hands) they could be reinforced with a thin layer of hot melt glue from the inside. Here's how what you should end up with at the end (49.5x20 tyre on the right, modified 49.5x16 in the middle and the leftovers from the modification in the middle) -5. Enjoy your new truck wheels))) Notice: do not attempt unless you are a "certified professional"

This is a modified version of Technic liftarms built with a softer material that absorbs impacts very well. The holes are the standard pinholes with the usual spacing (see image below). The connectors that hold them can be inserted into liftarms as well, but only get fixated at the midpoint. It was a dive into the outdoor RC market for Lego, so they needed something reliable and harder to break. The rubber joiners could also be combined with the usual technic. You can kinda see all sort of damage the part has taken. Zerobricks managed to adapt the wheels as well, using 24z gears and 3L pins to mount them.

Trypophobia intensifies Seem to be very versatile, even more than the cracker (?) parts introduced recently. Aslo something that TLG seems to be heading towards considering the beams with alternating holes from this year and extra large frames. Wonder how well they'll resist torsional forces

Welcome to eurobricks! I'll have to second Jurss's comment about the proportions, having a quick look at the blueprints (highly recommend using Sariel's scaler) the distance between the axles should be of 30 studs, and the width of 25 with those wheels. Also, if you try to route the steering under the differential, you should have enough space to place the engine in the correct location (more to the back of where it currently is) Good luck, and enjoy building such a legendary car!

unfortunately, that's a very common misconception. It is just differently shaped technic beams, the holes are just the ususal pinholes, with same dimensions and spacing:

Hmmm, I'd have a split opinion on this, since the parts can still be used with Technic. By the same logic of it being a different type of system, Duplo, Bionicle/Hero factory and even Technic itself are all not "proper lego sets", since they deviate from the basic stud connection

Unfortunately 32184 is available in yellow in 3 2020 sets, and in the Monster Jam pull-back from this year. (Not to mention it has been consistently availbale each year 2016, and being first introduced in yellow in 2000) The red 44809 also was availalbe in red that year and the previous ones as well... So not a valid excuse, just more random decisions from TLG

Additionally I'm baffled by cases like this: Why???? Both connectors exist in the necessary colours!!! Yet they decided to use LBG for no reason whatsoever... Parts aside, I also wonder about the opinion on sets' instructions, my last technic model is from 2017 for different reasons mentioned in this topic, but the instructions were... REALLY step by step. However, rolling back some time they could have complex assemblies in a sub-assembly window, which was quite fun to build. Am I alone on this? Or someone else would like a set to present a challenge to build rather it be served on a silver platter and spoon-fed to you? (Having checked CaDa's "not-a-Ferrari" instructions, these were a delight) 8281 sub-assembly for reference: And notice how most parts are same colour, bet nowadays it'd be a cacophony of olive greens, oranges, yellows and reds... a lost cause I guess.

Well, the mere fact of it being possible is not a reason to actually do it. Both methods have huge drawbacks and barely any (if none) benefits. 1. Parrarel connection. Available by default with both 9V and PF, main drawback is the weak electronics in receivers and batteryboxes, as well as the size and weight of the power supplies. If you really needed so much capacity so as to require 2 (or more) power supplies you wouldn't want to hook that to a single powerline or PF receiver as it would be safer being on separate circuits - the connectors aren't meant to transfer that much current through them. 2. Series connection My advice is not to do it. Has been done before if you are purely interested in the results (the last topic about this was about a month ago). Lego electronics are meant to be used at 9V and lego motors are 12V ones, hence why even BuWizz doesn't surpass it (Ludicrous mode tops out at 11'2 V according to official specs), as it would cause damage to the motors over long usage, and the electronics would probably end up fried as it has been pointed out by Zerobricks. Damaging the wires, melting the connectors and shorting out the batteries are very real possibilities of this setup.

Option 1. Use a train remote with your current setup. part n64227 Option 2. Use an Sbrick with the lipo. Sbrick Option 3. Ditch the lipo in favour of BuWizz, which combines the receiver and battery into one. BuWizz Using Sbrick/BuWizz you'll be able to not worry about the IR limitations as well, as these work over Bluetooth. It is also possible to use a gamepad linked to your phone to control them.

Good day, any chance to add 2986? After reading this topic had fun messing around (added a collision box&connections) but copied the bottom studs connection from 3003 and top stud from 30151, therefore on the bottom there's an impossible connection in the middle of the brick. The model itself is from Ldraw library, exported via LDView and then resaved in Blender (for some reason it wouldn't render correctly in LDD unless viewed from under the "baseplate"). In case someone finds it useful: download Huge thanks to everyone involved in keeping LDD alive!

2: 10 15: 6 17: 4 16: 3 20: 2 14: 1 Good luck to the contestants!

As far as I know LDCad is the only one available for Linux, however cannot confirm what distros it actually works on. There are also web-browser based CAD software such as Mecabricks. As last resort you could try your luck running a virtual machine/emulator with LDD/Stud.io, though at that point it'd be easier to install a secondary OS.

Hahah, considering my bad gatcha luck the different factories version would seem likely Though can agree with Jurss - same issue on the bushes and the perpendicular connectors with that shape, maybe changing to red was one of the ways to improve that (cannot confirm as never used that color besides a couple times for visual purposes). As far as noping out of the hobby... yeah might as well do, parts break, sets no longer catch my eye, prices still as high. Luckily found something else of interest for collecting/displaying, just too emotionally attached to these bricks somehow, and selling off a collection seems a complex matter to pull off.

Welp, have already thrown out quite a number of liftarms, these are going into the bin as well. Honestly susrprised the suspension in 42000 is still alive. The connectors are basically all like that until they disintegrate.

Oh wow, so now this colour mess is within standard I'll have to triple the aforementioned issue about connectors, most of my collection is from the last 10 years, and it is... perishing before my eyes basically. Some culprits I especially hate: - 2L thin liftarms: they lose their grip after a few uses, I had some even slide almost freely on an axle - perpendicular connectors: I don't think I have any left that aren't cracked on the axle hole - pins: they seem to be extremely fragile, I seem to find at least one that doesn't fit well any time I build. This does not apply to the old (BLACK) 3L pins however. - thin liftarms: axle holes get a crack in them after a few uses. Something I am wondering greatly about are the thin liftarms however, never had an issue with the thin liftarm ends of this or this part, yet the thin liftarms by themselves break often. In regards of colour inconsistency, for me it goes as early as 2006, with my first set - 8281. It had a 7L beam and 2x 90 degree connectors (#6) in red, and these two parts had a very distinct shade of red.

File seems to have gottten corrupted, opening it as a zip reveals that it's a completely empty folder, nothing in it at all. Rebuilt it in case anyone wants to just import it rather than use the image: frontaxledrivengeometrie_by_tibivi_rebuilt_syclone.lxf

Oh, very interesting looking scooter. Though not quite recognizable imo, maybe shorter panels for the rear would work better. Also how about some system parts or bionicle teeth on the front?

I honestly doubt there will be much value in it. Seems that old sets have had a great value rise because: 1. Whoever bought lego, was interested in actually building it, these weren't stricktly shelf models as the recent UCS models have become, but playable ones. 2. There wasn't much market for Lego. Now, I cannot actually speak about it (born in 2001), but judging from early posts on EB and other internet sources, there weren't thousands of people stockpiling hundreds of sets to sell for parts or to just keep them sealed. If you look on "2nd" hand market now, there are sellers with crazy amounts of MISB sets from recent years, so the market is quite saturated already 3. There were a lot less produced than now. Nowadays with online shopping and social media it is incredibly easy to buy / get into lego, and many non-lego fans buy them (since we're talking about the Sian, in this case carguys/gals). Additionally, this is not an exclusive set. It is a mass produced one, that will be available for at least 1'5 years from now on. And as mentioned previously, even the exclusive 41999 wasn't such a good inversement and sells for relatively low prices, so I don't expect anything from this neither. And finally, Sian isn't a specifically unique set, it wasn't first of the series as happened with the Porsche, nor it isn't some sort of commemorative one given out on a specal occasion like employee sets are. Probably the SW UCS are a better option, but real company stocks are certainly the way to go, specially considering the crisis happening now.

Not made by TLG, on the photos in description the DBG wheel connector is different - the mould circles are more pronounced on replicas, and mould ID (or whatever that number printed on parts is) has a different placement, font and size, not to mention "lego" logo/name is missing (specially visible on the front view)

Considering 42110 as a predecessor I wouldn't think it being the Bronco but some car that will be revealed at Frankfurt Motorshow in September as that was what happened previously.

For pictures you ought to use an external service and deeplink them here (Brickshelf, Bricksafe and Flickr are amongst the most used ones) Very surprising to see the U-joint is intact, would've expected it to explode considering how fragile they usually are. Seems great fun to drive, "RC buggy motors" have no chance against it