syclone

After a quick reverse-image search: K-BOX 10304 - ferrari 458. I don't know if it is a rip-off of a MOC hence no shop links More images:

Personally I don't care what I use as long as I'm satisfied with the end result. Of course that is partially because I won't have tens or hundreds of comments asking for instructions or where to buy parts if I publish a MOC. However the most important reason for me is that I build with Lego for my own satisfaction, not to meet someone's expectations or follow a company's guideline on what parts you can or cannot use and how they are ought to fit together. After-all, I'm not being paid by anyone to build nor am I selling instructions for what I build. And there have been artists (Arvobrothers f I recall correctly) whose extremely popular builds with paid instructions used rare parts and often stressed ones as well, yet I doubt anyone would classify them a delinquents for doing so, as it's their MOC and they built it as they wished. On an interesting note, the only MOC of mine that I know several other people built actually used a pair of old Bionicle frames and out-of production rims. And there seemed no problems as far as I could tell. So I'll keep using the "old" colour palettes and whatever rare parts I might've obtained, as I only want to enjoy the build process and the end result. Also, Bricklink exists, it's not like these old parts are super expensive, though there are certainly ones that have become astronomically priced for a piece of ABS

I'm honestly surprised at the performance of the IR receiver here. Mine seemed to cut off almost immediately with the RC motor from a 9v power supply, maybe the lower li-po voltage helped? Fun little hot-hatch, might do one myself as well on 30'4 wheels

Oh this looks absolutely fantastic with that wireframe bodywork, great work, not to mention the fact that there's 2WD and a gearbox inside, mindblowing

Your angled gears solutions never cease to amaze me... How well does the 24t mesh at that angle? Or maybe the old crown gear would be better suited that the straight-cut teeth of newer one?

Thank you very much, indeed space is tight, but I'll keep trying Thanks! I was really hoping it look to scale as the blueprint from the manual was a bit askew, glad it seems to work out! Today progressed a little more (while binge-watching series accumulated for the last months ), elevated the rear part by a stud, added a seat placeholder and made up a rear mudguard. Also fixed the floppy front fork by replacing the 3/4 pin by an old 2L pin (the ones with thick walls that are hard to pull out) and adding a second 5L half-beam with cross-axle holes on the ends. This reduced the suspension travel by 0'5 studs, but I regained them by moving the front mudguard the same distance downwards. Unfortunately the light-bley 5L axles now stick out, but I believe it is a manor visual inconvenience overall, and functionality-wise it was a good decision. Some pictures below, I really need to take some in daylight Here's a reference of the real one: P.S. might move the handles higher after watching these photos Edit: Also realised there are 2 separate chains for pedals and motor that I didn't see somehow

Oh, that quite a unique approach, moving all the builky components of the drivetrain away from the wheel! Also a very compact solution, really looking forward to this one!

Thanks, though I've taken that solution from the Vespa posted in the discussion thread Here's some more progress, I've joined the front and back finally, made a fuel tank (needs filing of holes with SYSTEM slopes). Gearbox will be a challenge, but I'll see what can be done. Steering fork fixation point is quite sloppy as well (3/4 pin is the pivot), so plenty of work, though that's for 2021 already (^０^)ノ

Lovely looking bike! Reminds me of this set from Racers line, great use of Sian wheelarches

Thanks! Thanks! The pedals disengage from the drive line through a ratchet (video of it working below, as of right now the DBG axle is the output to engine), and so far it seems to be quite reliable, will see how it is when I (hopefully) add a gearbox https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aP3r84hwXA Wasn't able to do much lately, but here's some progress up to date: The angle between the front fork and the chassis was a bit complex, but I managed to pull it off (comparison against the blueprint and mounted on the fork below) - gotta love the rigid hoses for funky angles. I've strated to work on some ideas for the gearbox, though it'd have to be a manual, maybe I'll be able to make the throttle handle work as the switch for it. Though I'd have to work out the chassis first so as to make it strong enough.

Thanks for the throughful explanation, though having in mind dr_spock's demo it seems that at least for "dumb" motors this would be a fantastic feature to have (it is a nightmare trying to place a motor close enough without using extension leads in PF even in medium-sized MOCs, this would be fantastic as one lead going to the controller could control various outputs), though the motor controller chips would have to be upgraded to serve any use. In regards of digital connection and each ouput working as input as well, it all indeed seems to be boiling down to the "dumbed down" design of TLG electric&electronics to go in trend with the general simplification of technic to make it more accessible for wider audiences, which does make sense, though I hope some upgrades will come their way to PU in the future as it did with PF.

Late yesterday made a front mudguard I'm quite happy about, no mechanical progress

In regards of the "trade-off to be done" is just another dumb executive decision, USB multiplexers or hubs have been a thing for a long time, and considering they're not using an analog connection but a digital one it is even dumber not to be able not to simply "stack" (all output devices do the same thing as the command says) but to daisy chain the motors!!!!! Daisy-chaining is not out of this world, and as far as I'm aware proper robotics servos are capable of doing it. Not only that but even some PC monitors have this ability through the Display-Port and USB-C thunderbolt with the latter being comparable in size to PU connector. Here's a 3 WIRE example of daisy chained servos and as far as I'm aware lego motors use 6... Then again, I would much prefer smaller motors & receivers as well as reasonably priced rechargeable batteries, it's the one thing long overdue, and PU only made the motors larger, making smaller MOCs even harder if not impossible to do. Oh, in regards of hubs not being able to use li-pos or Ni-mh batteries... lego definitely seems to be stuck in the past somehow, many toys have no problem using them at all, yet TLG iwith all of it's "green&enviromentally friendly" bs is still adamant about using batteries that will end up in landfills because your average customer doen't care about recycling them. I don't want to give any more fuel to the fire though, as I am clearly not the target audience of PU.

Made a version 1 of the front wheelarch, already have an improvement in mind (not sure if it'll work as expected though)

Not much, but still progress for me Pedals work, maybe it is put together a tad flimsy, but since the engine sits quite well will implement some sort of a 2-speed transmission instead of the 24t gears, not sure about the automatic though.

Thanks to everyone, will definitely try out the flexaxles idea! Yesterday had a bit more of progress, replaced the ribbed hose shocks with the standard bike ones. Engine is simple 1cyl, and 210 was available in either a single-speed or a 2 speed automatic, so far I've not come with a small enough 2 speed. Currently working on a ratchet-type pedal kickstart/reserve power (I think I have a solid idea that should work). Also had built a fueltank, but the angles didn't match, so off to the drawing board again. Will be looking to replace the front "brakes" with supports for the mudguards Edit: added ratchet for pedals

Good day, here on is my attempt for TC19. My grandad used to own a Jawa 210 , which according to my mum used to be a headache to everyone as it was notorious to break and finding replacement parts was hard by itself, nevermind doing so in post-soviet 90s. In fact, my only memory of it (early 00s) is it being inside our flat, never to be taken out again. Reference photo of one resembling closely my grandad's moped (I'll see if there are any photos I can post of ) After some web surfing I was able to find a service manual that pictured the moped: Unfortunately it is drawn under a slight perspective, so the dimensions taken from it are approximate, nevertheless I plan on using 94'2mm tires, mostly as I don't have any other motorcycle tyres (and paying 10€+ for two wheels is outrageous) . Therefore the wheelbase (?) will be of 27 studs (accounting for centre axles in wheels). based off that I threw together a size rig to ease my work, and so far assembled part of the front fork, though I'm looking into replacing it with the standard shocks if this solution doesn't end up holding up (as of right now the ribbed hose is extremely difficult to compress, and taking out the springs of the 6'5L shocks isn't an option for TC) The lower part of the handlebars should start at the enf of the vertical 15L on the rig according to my scaling. I will try to update with some more progress (probably front fork or will start a bit of engine) within short amount of time. Though I have absolutely no idea what do do with the mudguards, though so far I think that making them out of SYSTEM will be the best solution.

I'll have to double the comment from sm1995 in regards of bodywork - aleit in my case I've had several chassis made and either had no idea what bodywork to build on top or started a certain part of the rear or front and never finished. And in general I find hard to simply finish a MOC, as it takes a very long time and my attention&interest span is shorter than the memory range of a gold fish. Hence I rarely finish a WIP

Glad to have contributed with a tiny idea that made a bigger challenge of a build Seems to have been executed very smoothly from the video, hopefully the gearbox lever won't present any major problems, though I doubt there's anything out of the scope of your genius)))

Have been using Ni-Zn for several years, no problems so far, even from stalling Xl motors

Very slim setup, for the decoupling, how about something similar to Nico71's Rally car steering mechanism? Instead of servo input on his, just the input for RWS (mechanism in question shown @ 0:42) Just have an axlepin on the back side of the disk that would lock the rear steering in place when not connected to front steering

Oh my, new contest, time for another neverfinished WIP No idea whatsoever what to build though, hopefully will put something together while on uni break, thanks so much for your dedication to organize this competition!

Well, as far as I´m aware Super HICAS was just an option on both Type R and Type X, and definitely not a drifter feature , though it is a very interesting piece of tech to improve handling. Hopefully this won't steer your project away too much)))

Ohohoh, looking nicely there! Sorry for backtracking, but gosh darn the pop-ups look lovely (coupé Silvia is still my preference though, something so charming about it) Great to see SR20DET, such a shame there are no new, smaller piston housing parts (apart from 3D printed ones) I suppose no space/need for HICAS? (cannot even imagine how to implement it on a manual model except for being mechanically linked to the gearbox, but that would spoil all realism of it and probably would hinder the smoothness of gearshifting)

Welp, great as always. to eliminate bumpiness in the piston engine, why not use a cam? Wasn't expecting a MOD to pop-up so quickly, still don't understand what stopped Lego from using balljoints in the first place considering they've already done it in 42005