Ngoc Nguyen

Hi everyone, this is a short from RacingBrick https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Y3OR-q4RYi8

Thanks! Here's the link if anyone wants to check out. https://www.instagram.com/p/DAXpblEoGKy/

Do you have source

Sounds like TLG did some shrinking

In 2013 there was the set 42004 built from 246 pieces. https://images.brickset.com/sets/AdditionalImages/42004-1/42004_alt1.jpg

You can build my backhoe in the mean time

January - March releases: 42197 "Backhoe loader" (104 pcs. | $12.99) 42198 "Propeller Plane" (333 pieces | $26.99) 42199 "Monster Jam DIGatron" (218 pieces | $26.99) 42200 "Monster Jam ThunderROARus" (232 pieces | $26.99) 42201 "Deep Sea Submarine" (413 pieces | $36.99) 42202 (1603 pcs | $189.99) 42203 (462 pcs | $49.99) 42204 (810 pcs. | $59.99) 42205 (732 pcs. | $59.99) 42207 (1362 pieces | $239.99)

The topic for Technic 2025 has been updated.

Soon!

That's what I did, essentially. My 42128 B model was free for a year (August 21 to Sep 22), and that was when someone used the cabin design + instruction steps in their own instruction without crediting me. I asked for the credits and that person even denied it. According to Rebrickable TOS you can only force someone to credit your model if your model is premium. That was when I set it it premium, and the pretty much main reason I did that for subsequent models.

These are essentially buildable figures and not Technic at the core. Im not really interested in the Ecto 1. You already did at an excellent job with the DB5 and I dont think I can do any better or different. Now this is an interesting suggestion. Thanks a lot!

Even though I already have this many things to work on I procrastinated and whipped up TWO new Mini 42xxx and this.

I love the Bronco!

Sorry for the late reply, thanks a lot! Thanks for the compliment! Thanks for the support!

Hi everyone, this is a rover review from RacingBrick

Another nice thing about the steering shift that I forgot to mention is that it locks itself. You can't switch mode if the HOG is turning or the wheels are steering. The reason is very simple. Since the HOG shaft (which controls the grey knob gear) and the rear steer shaft (which controls the yellow knob gear) are always parallel, once you turn then when the steering shift is in the back position, the arm/tooth of the knob gears will slightly overlap, and the yellow gear will block the steering shift from moving completely into the front position and subsequently meshing with the yellow knob.

There is virtually no backlash at all. The steering is very responsive. You can see it in action here at 0.37: Thanks a lot!

So, how does the steering work? The steering shaft and mechanism are tied into the structure of the undercarriage, so let's take a look through the whole structure. Since I want the model to have 4x4 drive and 4 wheel steering, this is the most compact legal setup. I'm aware of more compact builds but they are not legal or structurally sound enough. The reason the 28z differential is used is that the drive shaft is transmitted directly up from the driving bevel gear to the fake engine right above the rear wheel. There are 3 possible places to put the transmission: between the two axles, right in front of the rear axle, right behind the rear axle. Since the space between the two axles are for the two mode steering, and the space behind the rear axle is for the outriggers, the only possible place is right in front of the rear axle. That means the drive transmission has to bypass the steering axle, and the only combination that works is 28z differential meshing with a 12z gear, which meshes directly above with a clutch 20z gear. In the photo above you can also see that on two sides are the drivetrains for outriggers and HOG steering knob. To accommodate space for the sideways movement at the two ends, the steering must use a 9L liftarm instead of a 7L gear rack. This setup also makes aligning the front and rear steering positions easier. The outriggers are connected to each other through a horizontal axle. This setup is adopted from Akassin's model. On the left side the axle has an 8z gear that meshes with the worm gear to ensure the outriggers can be locked. This is the how the drivetrain for outriggers look from above, for both axles. In order for the front and rear outriggers to rotate in the same direction, the meshing gear in the legs must be in the same relative position to the horizontal axle instead of in mirrored positions. That means they both have to be behind the driving 12z half gears, as highlighted in the photo. You can also see the steering drivetrain has 2 CV joints. What are they for? The logic of the steering mode is like this. Since the steering angle of each axle is very small, around 10 degree, there's no need for a front wheel steering only. Also, front wheel steering doesn't just involve the steering, it also requires locking the rear wheel steering, which increases the complexity of the problem. Therefore I only need two modes: counter steering and crab steering. In these two modes, the front wheel always steer. Therefore I made the HOG permanently connected to the front wheel steering, through the 3 8z gears in the front, as highlighted in the photo below. Meanwhile, the steering shaft for the rear axle goes into the middle of the chassis, but is independent from the steering shaft of the front axle. On the axle, there is an 8z gear and a knob gear separated by 1 stud. In the space between the two axles, there's a block called steering shift. It is 6L long and is build at the center of a 11L axle, so that there's an axle of 2.5L on each side. The space between the two axles is 7L wide, and since the steering shift needs to slide back and forth, it has to be 6L long only. The CV joints at both sides serve two purposes. First, since they have frictionless axle holders, they allow the steering shift to move back and forth. Second, since the frictionless axle holders is 1.5L deep, the steering shift can move by 1L in one direction while is still connected to the other direction by 0.5L. This setup allows transmission from HOG to front wheel steering is continuous; in other words the front axle always steer when the HOG is rotated. When the steering shift is in the back position, the HOG shaft goes through 3 gears to reach the rear axle steer shaft, while in the front position, the HOG shaft goes through only 2 gears to reach the rear axle steer shaft, therefore driving the rear axle in the opposite direction. Thanks to the new 45 degree offset knob gear, both the HOG shaft and the rear steer shaft are parallel. The steering shift has a fixed 8z gear so that a worm gear when rotated can push that gear along with the whole steering shift back and forth by 1L. And that's how the two mode steering works. I'm very happy and proud that I can pull this off smoothly, especially in such a space that's not just small but is also restricted by many other factors.

Why cant it

Given that Zetros's rare (if not nonexistent) appearances among trial trucks, I thought that this set's version of Zetros is just imaginary, but I've found a real life Zetros trial truck! This is probably what 42129 is modeled after.

Who wants a Sariel Technic review? @Maaboo the Witch does!

There's 42114 but I'm not doing a mini of that, and it's not 42139 either cuz 42139 is already mini lol.

I already have a WIP for it, and development may resume next year the earliest, since it can be built right on top of a current mini 42xxx in development

Sets in development til the end of a year - Mini 42xxx - Mini 42xxx - B model for 42xxx - 42100 RC PF Conversion - 42131 Gearbox PF Conversion - 42176 RC PF Conversion Sets of interest - Mini 8258 - Mini 9397 - Mini 41999 - Mini 42009 - Mini 42052 - Mini 42055 - Mini 42066 - Mini 42070 - Mini 42078 A - Mini 42100 - Mini 42110 - Mini 42114 - Mini 42126 - Mini 42131 - Technic 10317 (Defender) - Technic 21327 On another note, the new 13x3 frames allow me to quickly whip up a base for the mini 42055.