Ngoc Nguyen

Can you share the file for 9L curved panel

The instruction for this model has just made its 100th sale! I don't know why this model still generates sales every once in a while even when 42128 has retired and I have stopped promoting it. I have no idea where the traffic comes from. According to Rebrickable's analytics there are occasional visits from Eurobricks, but I already removed the link to this set from my signature, and sometimes there are sales with no referral site. When I first released this set in August 2021 I had no idea that it would sell this well. That's why I set it as a free MOC for more than a year. It was not until September 2022 that I set it to premium, because another user copied the whole design of the cab in their instruction without giving me credits. And what a journey it has been. The only thing left for this model that I wish I had is a video showing the functions, which I can't do because I don't have the equipment or the editing skills. Every once in a while I tried looking up on Youtube to see if someone did a review on this, but there hasn't been any. But nevertheless, this model has been successful enough, and it's been great luck for me.

Thanks a lot!

Can someone check if the reel can rotate freely in this setup? I don't have the reel part so I can't check.

The next installment in the mini replica colletion: mini Airbus H175 Rescue Helicopter. DEVELOPMENT Even though it is based on the original 42145, I don't like the original color scheme, because neon yellow is a dreadful color in real life, and white ages horribly. Thanks to the release of the 42154, I can build this color scheme instead. The original 42145 has a body of 11M width, and I want the mini model to be motorized as well, so I made the mini fuselage 9M wide. That means it wraps around the battery box completely. and that is the root of the main challenge of the design process. To ensure structural integrity, I have to essentially build a skeleton that wraps around the connection points of the battery box. I even have to use the switch axle hole to connect the vertical support. I also added the diagonal support for the tail to prevent it from bending down, a phenomenon that happens to the tail of the original 42145. The placement of the motor is also problematic. It has an effective height of 4 studs, but because of the 0.5 stud bumps on both sides. the axle hole is offset by 0.5 stud. And the only place to put it is right above the battery box. The bright side is that thanks to the 0.5 offset, I was able to get a 8/16 gear ratio right off the motor. There is space for only two motorized functions, so I decided to motorize the rotor blades and the landing gear, while the winch will be manual. Since the blades only spin in 1 direction, and I'm not really a fan of the 2-speed gearbox, I gave made the switch for the blade work only in one direction. On the other hand, I want the switch for the landing gears to be bidirectional, so I put a direction reversal in the middle. The transmission for the rotor blades is as follows. The axle from the switch will go through a 20/12 gear ratio to the tail rotors to make it spin faster, while it goes through a ratio of 12/28 to the small turntable that drives the main blades, so there's a noticeable difference between rotation speed. The landing gear function is achieved through a linear actuator that pushes the linkages of the front wheels. The linkages of the front wheels are connector to those of the rear wheels through a 13L beam running in the middle, above the battery box. Both front and back wheels use past-the-midline lock mechanisms. This is the whole thing in one photo. As you can see, even though this model has a fairly generous body width (unlike the mini Osprey), things squeeze pretty tightly together. Every cubic stud is premium, and no space goes to waste. In terms of appearance, I think the original 42145 just looks odd. It doesnt look like or even looks closely like the real H175. Therefore improving the look is also a goal of the design process, and Im very happy that I can pull it off. FUNCTIONS Most functions and details of the original model are replicated: - Motorized landing gears - Motorized rotor blades - Manual side winch - Diagonal front doors - Sliding side doors - Side rescue light - Pitot tubes Demonstration: INSTRUCTION: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-192494/nguyengiangoc/mini-42145-airbus-h175-rescue-helicopter

I like this Unimog more than the other Unimog. You nailed the bold lines of the front grill perfectly.

The real compactness challenge is when the rear wheels are folded up. The transmission for the tilting nacelle, which drives the worm gear, has to be routed to the back. But at the same time, there's a 20z gear on top and the landing gear mechanism in the bottom. The linkage for the wheel needs a midline block to prevent the wheels from collapsing on itself, hence the existence of the 2L axle hole-pin hole liftarm. The pin hole has a 1/2 pin that serves as a block, so when it is fully retracted, in theory the 1/2 pin will collide with the CV joint. But thanks to the magic of flex, in real life, the CV joints and the universal joints are slightly bent to the right while still capable of rotating smoothly, and since the CV joint has a frictionless axle holder it has a small sideway wiggle room.

This is a cross section of the model to show you the inner working. As you can see, there is barely any unused space. Everything about this model is difficult, and I'm very very happy that it is finally functional. The root of the challenges in the design process is the width of the fuselage. The original 42113 has a fuselage that is 9 studs wide and 9 studs tall. I decided to shrink by 2/3, so that the mini fuselage has a height of 6 studs, but the width has to be an odd number, so it can only be 5 studs. Since the walls already take up 2 studs, the space I have for all the gears and functions have to be squeezed in a space of 3 studs width. The landing gear function uses different gear ratios for the front and for the rear wheels, because when folded, the rear wheels only need to move by 90 degrees, while the front wheel, due to being placed further front, needs to move by a larger degree. The front 20z gear also presents a convenient chance for me to use a worm gear to ensure the positions are locked. The rubber piece is used because the swing arm (4L thin liftarm) together with the block is actually longer than 4 studs, which means it will collide with the front column when it rotates up. Fortunately, the rubber piece can bend backward slightly so that the thin liftarm can do a full swing smoothly. The opposite movements of the two pieces of the rear ramp are achieved through simple linkages. When the knob is turned clockwise, the 2x3 quarter liftarm will push the bottom piece down. The highlight of the design is the arrangement of the rotor and the tilt function. Both of them have to go to the wings at an angle, but the wing only can only accommodate one axle in the middle, so that axle will be for the rotor. The tilting is achieved through a meshing of 8z-28z gears at the turntable at the end of the wings. Because the width is only 3 studs and the axle has to be attached to two universal joints on two ends, there is no space for perpendicular transmission. That's why the transmission for the rotors go by a combo of 4 horizontal spur gears. It's very fortunate that the 16z gears fit perfectly under the slot in the middle of a 3x7 panel, so I can cover the middle part with that panel. The tilting transmission has a worm gear driving a 12z gear. Originally I used a worm gear with a 8z gear, but that doesn't generate enough force, and 12z gear is the only bigger gear that fits into that place. To mesh a worm gear with 1 12z gear, the worm gear was put at a 0.5 offset, which means it needs universal joints to be taken back to grid. In the back the transmission has to be geared down twice further. The final gear ratio from handle to nacell is (12/20) x (12/20) x (1/12) x (8/28) = 0.0085 which is 0.8% reduction. That means the tilting nacelle works very slowly, but it is only through such heavy gearing down that the knob can provide enough force to tilt the nacelle. Anything larger will cause the gears to skip.

Words or photos or my phone can't really show how cool this thing looks in real life. I have it on my work desk and it's a real head turner.

I finally got the pieces and did a demonstration video! Everything works flawlessly!!! Development story is coming later.

Did grohl just speak Yoda

That was intended and shown in one of the promo photos.

Let's hear from the designer himself!

You might think that the lineup for Technic 2024 has reached its end... but there are 2 more sets coming! 66792 Mclaren Racing Pack 66784 NEOM McLaren Racing Gift Set (which is just 42166 and 42169)

This fits perfectly, thanks a lot!

Do you have the part id for that part? Or set numbers in which they appear?

Is there any round System piece that is transparent and is smaller than 2x2? I need a headlight piece for my MOC, but the 2x2 dish/plate/tile are too big, while the 1x1 ones are too small.

The excavator's arm is a pain to model.

4:09 Panel #5 and #6 with smooth concave surface

Now that's what I need for my mini Zetros!

Hi everyone, this is a praise from RacingBrick

kbalage hasn't used that phrase for a while now

Hi everyone, the video above is from Racing Brick

Or buy all the parts without the new hub and cables and play with it manually.