Sheepo

I don't need clues to know how something is wrong designed, I know perfectly the specs of the chiron, and a suspension with no travel is not one of them. Probably the comparison is not fair in some points, but it was a fast way to show my sadness about one more lost opportunity to do a really complete Lego supercar. My Veyron is very outdated, 9 years of new parts and building technics is a very long time. I am sad because I think that they did really good job in some parts of the car, for example the rear end, the gearbox is brilliant with the new "wave" gear selector, and I love all new parts . But if the information that some people have said here is true, about the gears sequential order is not the correct, like happened with the porsche two years ago is a huge fail that Lego should not do. LTG has fantastic designers, time and resources to avoid these problems. I am very sure that the problem with the suspension is not the shock absorbers, the problem is the geometry that they have with the suspension arms. The car is not heavy enough to compress 8 hard spring shock absorbers in the correct position. To compare my Porsche 911 have only 1 hard spring on each front wheel and 1 hard and 1 soft in the rear, the car is probably over 1Kg heavier than the Chiron, and the suspension with the weight of the car is compressed around 50% of the travel. I have never done a MOD before, but I am thinking seriously about do it with the Chiron, too many cool improvements very easy to do with it...

I know that this comment will sound weird and maybe out of place, but I feel I have to say it: but I am thinking that my 9-year Bugatti Veyron is still better in most parts that this official Chiron... very sad but true in my opinion Fails in gearbox and suspension(again!!), and external tool to move the rear spoiler, really TLG?? REALLY?? This is the perfect way to give the MOCers free way to improve it easily.

Thanks for share the picture, it looks really well in black, better than I thought :)

Actually it is very simple, it is just a 2-speed gearbox with a servo connected, and the controller turns on the servo and the drive motors at the same time with one movement. It is similar to the gearbox I used in the BMW i8 some years ago

After almost two years without show new MOCs now I have the opportunity to do it. I have designed this model exclusive for a customer as a special order with specific features and design. It is not for sale and I will not publish instructions to build it. This car is a Chevrolet Impala 4 doors '67, and it is one of the main character of the TV series Supernatural. It is built in 1/10 scale. The result is a 70x27x19 studs of American muscle. It has 3337 parts and weighs around 3kgs. It is powered by: 1 PF AA battery box 2 IR receivers 2 M motors 2 XL motors 1 Servo motor Complete tan color interior with full size seats, door panels and dashboard. It also has a door in the roof to look easily in the interior. All doors have door lock. Front bonnet spring loaded and fake V8 working engine. Also you can open the bonnet with a lever located in the interior of the car close to the steering wheel. Steering with working steering wheel (M motor). Rear openable trunk with hidden box(M motor). Front double wishbone suspension and rear live axle. 2-speed semiautomatic gearbox. 2XL motors for drive and one servo for change speeds. Gear ratios: 1st: 1:1 2nd: 1:3 Finally a detailed video of the car with all functions. I hope you like it after so much time without new from me. Note: this is not the only one MOC I have built since 2016... I have some more prepared to be published in the next months.

Yes, it is correct, as soon as you build some more steps you will discover how it works.

It is in the same scale as the 300SL(well, almost, 1/10.5 vs 1/10). It is only 23 studs wide. The 300SL is 21-wide, and my old big Land-Rover 28-wide to compare...

I will respond your first question anyway: you can not use 2 axles intead of 16L axle. And about the jard, it is hard to say, but with trial axles you shouldn't have problems, but driving very slow, with standar axles I don't know if you will can honestly.

It the place you said it is 8 studs tall. And yes, the shock absorver is part of the gearbox

Yes, it is more reliable, but you need to stop the gearbox motor by yourself instead of the autostop mechanism like the Mustang, it is less confortable but much more reliable. I hope this image can answer your question about the size ;) The gearbox is not the same as the MB, but is based on it. It works better than any other 5+R gearbox I have ever built. Edit: The part list are now available in rebrickable

This Jeep uses the same speeds gear ratio as the Land-Rover. The video not always show correctly the difference between gears, it is related with video fps and wheels rpm. No, because almost nobody buy both instructions. With very square cars is very easy get a final realistic shape in technic. with soft curves the difficult is much higher Yes, it is. You built it on independent parts: chassis, drivetrain, axles and bodywork, if you want to use the gearbox for another car it should be very easy. And yes, the gearbox is similar to the MBs ones. Yes, I use the same controller as the 300SL, Mustang, Beetle, Caterham... 42000 wheels on standar axles and unimog wheels on trial axles

Thanks for your comments. Jim, I am waiting for the brickshelf folder become public to change the pictures for a smaller copy, is it 900x600px enough small?

One of the icons of USA cars the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (JK), a real leyend still alive. It is built in scale 1/10. With an overall size of 23x52x25 studs(18x42x20 cm). It weights 2.7Kgs, and has around 2700 parts It is powered by 5 PF motors, 2 IR receivers and one PF AA battery. - 2XL motors for drive - M motor for steering - M motor for sequential gearbox - M motor for drive mode and range gearbox As usual 5+R speeds sequential gearbox (4th GEN). 2-speeds range gearbox and 2WD/4WD modes. Also its has an important feature of the Rubicons versions: lockeable front and rear differenfials. Realistic drive modes, you can select sequentialy between 4 drive modes: 2H, 4H, 4L and 4L with lock diff. I know many people like the Wrangler looks more extreme, for them I have built a second pair of axles. They include portal hubs and an extra 3:1 gear reduction. They also add 2 studs high and 2 studs wide of each side Important note: even with trial axles this car is not a Trial Truck, you can not expect Trial Truck off-road capabilities... As always a complete video: This time the instructions comes together with the car, in RC and MANUAL versions. To know more or buy the instructions go HERE

Thank you for the review!! I really like your review, I think it is very clever and realistic. The design is not perfect, but as you said it is a very good base to modify as you want. I have a RC chassis V2 version with improved rear axle and gearbox. I will publish it as soon as I have it ready Note: I used lithium battery in my early prototypes , but I used AA battery box in the final design for not increase the total cost too much: 7€(AA) vs 15€(AAA) vs 60€(lithium)...

It is more or less in scale 1:8.3 37 studs wheelbase 29 studs wide front axle 31 studs wide rear axle 67 studs long 20 studs tall Similar size of my Porsche 911 and Mustang

Well, finally the instructions are ready!! The car has more parts than I thought: 2156 including controller. Initialy before show the car I did a calculation about the number of parts I think it must has based on its weight, the result was about 1600, but I was very far of the reality ;) The instructions has 355 pages Thanks to Jurgen and blakbird!! All info here: http://www.sheepo.es/2016/01/mercedes-benz-300sl-54-instructions.html

Here is a quick technical answer about how the PF remote controller works. When you push any lever, it sends a signal, obviously, but when you push both levers it doesn't send two signals, it send just one signal which includes both levers signal at the same time. Actually a controller can send 8 differents signals: * Levers (right.left) * + > front * - > back * 0 > stoped 1- (+.0) 2- (-.0) 3- (0.+) 4- (0.-) 5- (+.+) 6- (-.-) 7- (+.-) 8- (-.+) For this reason why a receiver receives for example (+.0) and (0.-) at the same time it can't undenstand the signal and do rare things like you show in all videos I hope this info can help you.

Actually this gearbox doesn't need clutch. The main reason is the scale change, with lower weigth and power the torque in the gearbox's drive rings is low and it is possble connect and disconnect them directly, you can't do it properly in 1/8 models Very good comment Zoltan. You are all right about the free space inside the Mustang, that was the first time I though about change the scale of my models. Actually if you see the Beetle it is done in 1/8 scale, but it is only 25 studs wide and very short, the same phisical size as most part of 1/10 models. As you said a car as complex as Veyron or Porsche are actually almost undriveable, the lego drive parts and motors don't work properly in models bigger than 1/10. About the BMW, right now I am doing a big upgrade before do the instructions, adding some improvements in the in the chassis and bodywork. I don't have more pictures of the 300SL now, and I am very far of it to do more pictures. If I have some free time I will do some quick renders. As soon as I have the final part list I will upload it to rebrickable.

nerdsforprez 100% agree Nice to meet you too Edwin

Good question, I think the challenge to change to smaller scale is a big step forward. 1/8 scale has big options, mainly huge space for mechanism and functions, but has big problems too: you need tons of parts to do anything, the performance is very poor even if you use many motors because it is too big and heavy, just a few different wheels in the correct size... I feel very comfortable in 1/10 just after two cars, I think I took the best decision.

THanks for your comments!! It has brakes in all wheels, you can see it in the video at 1:25.

I am here with my lastest car. I showed it in the LEGO World Utrecht 2015. It is one of the most famous sports car in history, and the fastest production car on its time, the legendary Mercedes-Benz 300SL, usually called "Gullwing". It is built in scale 1/10.5. With a final size of 21x13x53 studs(17x10x42 cm). The weght is 1.5Kgs, and has around 1500 parts It is powered by 4 PF motors, 2 IR receivers and one PF lithium battery / AAA battery. To get better soft curves I have used light grey pneumatic tube. But all of them have standard soft axle lengths: 7, 11, 12, 14, 16 and 19 studs, so if you are very purist and you don't want to cut pneumatic hoses you can use soft axles. The gullwing doors have lock. you need to push the little black part in the door to open it. It has steering with working steering wheel (PF M motor). Unfortunately there are not enough space under the bonnet to add a 6L fake engine, so this time is a only a few plates to show where it must be. The car is drive by a single PF XL motor, and the max speed is around 3kph(1.9mph). In the rear trunk is the battery. Realistic suspension in both axles: double wishbone in the front and swing axle in the rear. Well, many people asked me about if the scale change from 1/8 to 1/10 will reduce the functions of my cars, and I told them that will not happen, I think this car is a good example. Small size car doesn't mean poor functions, here the first proof: 4 speeds sequential gearbox. In this car I release a whole new gearbox, 4th gen. It is very small and very very reliavable. In this car it doesn't include auto-stop function for gearbox motor (PF M motor), so you must stop the motor by yourself. Of course it include speed indicator from the interior of the car. And the second proof: drum brakes in all wheels. Yes, brakes like my other big cars. In this time to save some space I have used the interior side of the rim like the drum. Powered by a M motor. Finally a picture to show you the real size difference between this 1/10.5 scale car and one of my previous 1/8 cars. The complete video: Enjoy!!

Thanks Ingmar!! I had a great experience in the LW meeting with you and other Dutch builders ;) It is really nice put faces and voices to the people you only know across internet.

My two last buggys ware small and quick, so this time I wanted to build a big one. And here is it: big and faster than you probably think... To get better control in long range I have used SBrick(actually two if them). The overall size is 50x30x21 studs (~40x24x17cm). The wheels used the from the Unimog set. To do it as fast as possible I have built it very simple and light, it only has 698 parts, and the weight is only 1.3 kgs. It is powered by 4XL motors, 2 for each axle with 1:3 final gear ratio. With so many motors it needs to use 2 batteries and 2 SBricks. The max speed is around 8kph (5 mph). I have used a special configuration for the motors to get the best possible preformance. So the transmission is very simple and it only has 4 gears... and nothing more. Simple and effective. The suspension configuration is a double wishbone in both axles. It is every soft and with long travel, essential to go fast on bad terrain. The steering are controlled by a PF Servo motor and working steering wheel Available Free LDD Instructions, to download it go to my swebsote HERE Finally a video in action: Enjoy!!

I update this post to add important note: The instructions are now available for FREE!!! Thanks to blakbird!! You can download it in my website HERE.