Didumos69

The 4x2 lift arm in the roof is not available in medium blue, but maybe you could do the roof dark azure. And the perpendicular connector with 1 axle hole and 2 pin holes is not available in white. Also the red T-bone is not available in white. You could use light bluish gray for those pieces though.

So if you build it, you will truly build it. That shines a whole new light on building. You can build and you can truly build, like you can drink a hasty coffee and you can sit down and truly drink coffee. EDIT: Awesome model btw. I would also truly build it .

As a side note: There is something weird going on with wheel weight. In a car, having heavy wheels has all kinds of negative effects. For an offroad car for instance, there would be lots of unsuspended weight bumping up and down if the wheels would be heavy. However, when you ride a bike up a hill on tarmac, you obviously want the bike to be as light as possible. But if you have a minimum weight requirement, like for instance for road races, you better put most of the weight in the wheels. For riding uphill that is. The reason is that you can put more kinetic energy in your bike with less speed. And more kinetic energy means your legs can put in more pulse like power shots instead of putting in an almost constant power level. More pulse like power curves are more natural. We all know how it feels to ride up a steep hill, when you stop pedalling, you lose your speed immediately. If your wheels would carry lots of kinetic energy, just like a flywheel, you could stop pedalling without slowing down that quickly. But that's of course all not important to this thread.

I will most likely try with both options and test whether there is a difference. I will have to find out how fast it goes. Weight is a factor too of course, hence the preference for using less parts. Although you need some weight to get some inertia, I mean to get a tendency to respond slow to changing forces. So it won't respond to every single bump and will tilt in turns. To an acceptable extend of course. With too little weight you get what we see so often with LEGO, a silly bouncing vehicle.

@amorti, turning the CV-joints around will make the wide cup of the CV-joint collide with the axle holes of the turntable. However, by squeezing a 8t gear (without doing damage) over the axle side of the CV-joint inside the wheel side of the turntable, the CV-joint gets a firm grip on that side of the turntable.

I have that as a backup and it indeed gives half a stud extra offset. To tie the turntables to the Defender rims was a challenge though and required quite a few parts. I'm willing to accept the slack in the wheel hubs against the extra parts for the turntables. That chassis is a marvel btw. Using a different pivot point horizontally and vertically won't work with the CV joints, which have one pivot point for vertical and horizontal rotation.

I tested it manually, not with motors yet. All pivots are in one plane and the pivot point of the CV-joint inserted in the wheel hub lies exactly in the middle of the pivots for the suspension arms. So it's all symmetrical. The only concern I have is that the CV-joints can insert slightly too deep into the hubs (0.2 studs), causing them to de-center slightly and maybe pull the other CV-joint out of the differential.

I'm working on a 4WD chassis that uses the new power-up motors and battery unit, the new CV-joints from 41099, the new differential from 42109 and the new rims from 42110. I found a way to use the new CV-joints with the old wheel hubs, at the cost of one stud offset. The setup also incorporates a substantial caster angle. I will be using the new defender rims form the 42110 Defender to compensate for the bad offset. I intend to use this chassis for a RC rally car. The model will have 2 stud suspension travel all around. I will use this topic to show progress.

FYI: I dropped the price of the instructions on Rebrickable from Euro 9,- to Euro 5,-. I also refunded the payment to the ones who already bought the instructions.

This is awesome. It has the functions, it has the looks and most of all, it is totally original!

Thanks for your interest. I have a few bad experiences with sharing 3D files, so I won't be sharing them. I'm sorry.

Thanks for testing this out @agrof! There would have been less need to integrate them in frames ;-).

Can you have axles with end-stop in the new diff. I mean with the end-stops inside the diff? EDIT: At the red gear end I mean, the other end can only take an axle outside-in.

Or bricksafe.com.

What is not indefinite about the movement in the examples I showed? They can move left endlessly and right endlessly. Or do you want something that is not confined to 90 degree steps?

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-22777/Didumos/motorized-90-shifter https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-22027/Didumos/reliable-two-way-90-stepper/

Well spoken ?! What I take from this is that my post in the lambo speculation thread about incapable TLG designers is actually an observation rather than a complaint.

Of course TLG needs to take into account all kinds of requirements which are less important to MOC designers. And some MOC designers use parts in a way LEGO would never regard acceptable. However, when it comes to following a few simple guidelines that ensure a smooth running drivetrain, TLG designers are building blunder on blunder consistently. Look at 42056, 42083 and 42110, all models with completely flawed drivetrains. If you look at how straightforward jb70 could redesign the Defender's transmission, taking out all flaws and bad smells, it's a shame it wasn't like that in the first place. They seem to not know the characteristic of their own modeling language called Technic. And this bad design practice is not because they had to meet other requirements, like ease of build or parts count. It is plain incapability. One would expect some kind of progressive insight or gradually emerging best practices amongst TLG designers, but apparently there is no such thing. I have therefore also no expectations with respect to the drivetrain of the upcoming Lamborghini.

Entry is done. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. More photos here.

20. Dune Buggy 2020 One of my first sets was the 8845 Dune Buggy. Since then I've always been intrigued by serious suspension travel. So for this contest I focussed on suspension and built the model I would have wanted if I would still have been a kid. WIP-topic can be found here. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. More photos here. Features: HoG steering Rear wheel drive with differential Fake V8 engine 2 studs ground clearance 2 studs suspension travel all around Double wishbone front suspension Trailing arm rear suspension

Next to its predecessor...

+1 If you go with black, you lose the contrast between fenders and body. So I'd say yellow or white, but keep the fenders black. Yellow is my favorite.

Yep