nastystage

Cool model! I think you should remove the center 24t gear: the two motors will act as differential.

your videos are marvellous!! I love your simpsons Pure genius!

What a shame :( They could have done it, it wouldn't affect the costs.

the video is really cool. I love it!!

No, i'm talking about the pistons alone, with the 2 holes free. I have many sets with older pneumatics and never felt so much resistance I hope that Lego didn't forget to put some grease inside like i found in older pistons

Hi I'm building the Arocs and it seems that the pneumatic pistons are very hard to extend or compress compared to those in the unimog or the older studded ones. Even without the hoses applied. Anyone else noticed that? Do i have to put some lubricant inside?

Great!! The only thing i'dont like so much is the color scheme. I'm very curious about the battery mod

what a beauty

Try to check in the internet something like axial ax10

2 links are not enough to set the suspension. You need something that prevent suspension from moving sideward. The solution in real life cars is the panhard bar (something like 8110). I really don't like 9398 setup , try to check some rc scaler

9398 is a false 2 links....don't forget the pivot ball (steering axles) with 4 crossed links you don't need pivot and suspension works better

I think it's time to sell my windows phone to buy an android one!

Well done! .....but in the real car picture you posted it seems that the doors are standard, not gullwing

Pretty little dozer!! Why you put an XL motor for the front? A medium wasn't enough?

Stunning masterpiece! Someone should make a 1:1 supercar with this design The curved line on the door just under the mirror is beautiful. There's a sort of multilink rear suspension or I'm wrong?

Cute! if you only had L motors...

very nice little truck!! Great shape and functions

Great project!! I hope you'll find a better drivetrain solution without using wormgears

Fantastic!! But...in the video it seems that the steering wheel's moving the wrong way?!

Sbrick and maybe wires. The battery will heat only if it has not enough ampere discharge to feed the motor....but with a 3500mah and 30c dicharge you will not have this problem (3,5x30= almost 100A!!) (with this kind of battery you can power a fast rc professional car or a multicopter like dji phantom without problems )

yes, it will overheat and break

For the batteries: Your only matter should be the voltage. If you stay below 11.8 you can use a 10000mah or higher if you want. This will not hurt the sbrick. For the motors: You have to choose a motor with ampere consumption that not exceed sbrick limit. ps. sorry for my english

Hi all, this is my first post. I starded with lego technic when I was a child with 948 go kart....and after many years I came back from my dark age with the Unimog ...and read this forum every day I also play with rc cars and planes and I'm pretty sure you cannot use a 3s lipo battery on sbrick because the "Absolute maximum voltage" is 11.8V and a full 3S lipo delivers 12.6 Volt. You can use a 2S with lego motors, but not with standard rc motors because the ampere request will blow the sbrick. https://social.sbric...uide-for-sbrick