Pawlo

Connection from battery to Lego cable is made like this:

Sure, what would You like to know? ;)

Thanks for kind words, indeed model gives a lot of fun, I recommend to try it on Your own :) Battery pack is very easy to build, and for very small amount of money - I have dismantled old laptop battery, which is made with 14500 Li-Ion cells. Track was a normal, non-drift track for RC models.

Hi there everyone! I would like to present to You my latest Lego Technic creation – a modification of Nico71 model: Small Black Sedan. My goal was to make it look more like iconic, late 80’ BMW e30 Coupe. Modifications involved: • remodeling the body, • fitting bigger wheels (49,5x20), • improving steering system, • changing power source for 12,6V custom battery pack. The most difficult and time consuming part was to design front grill – fitting too big front lights to it to look as most precise and neat as possible. I’m quiet satisfied with the outcome, I hope You will be to :) Steering system had to be modified because of this drawback: steering from servo motor is passed by 20z and 12z gears working in 90 degree alignment. Because of that the wheels were always turned a little bit for one side. To overcome this I’ve asked Efferman to design a new 20z gear with tooth’s alignment made like this: Part was printed by Shapeways and works really great. Thanks’ to that model always drives straight :) My second most important goal with this model was to check, if lego MOC is able to give fun on race track for RC models. To test it, I have used custom 10,8V Li-ION battery pack, which has maximum voltage of 12,6V at 100% charge. My Sbrick responded very well for this voltage, there were no burn’s or anything like that. Speed of the model is highly better compared to Lego 9V Li-ION battery pack. To maximize the effectiveness of the power unit, I’ve removed thermistor over-heating protection from Lego L-motor. With normal driving, temperature of the motor is on safe level. If You want to drive fast with Lego motors, I recommend to do this – it’s quiet easy operation :) You can check how the model performed on the race track In the video below. For me driving it was a great fun, but also a big challenge. It’s not so easy as it looks ;) But after some practice and tuning of the steering sensitivity in Sbrick Profile Designer, it gave a lot of fun and thrill. I think it would be even more attractive if there were couple models racing on the track – surely I would like to try it! So if You live in Warsaw - PM me – we could do some serious racing ;)

Great MOC Madoca! As always You are a great inspiration for my own ideas for Technic creations. Keep up good work!

Hi Madoca, are You planning to make an instruction for the pickup? I'm a big fan of Ypur creations and i't would be splendid to be able to build it :)

Very interesting project, but the tires/rims available in kickstareter are moderetly interesting. 48x28 mm wheel is almost the same like 49.2x20 mm original lego wheel, but wider, witch is not always desirable. IMHO the biggest interest would be to make wheel's like 46x18 mm or 70x~25 mm - which are dimensions not available with original Lego pieces. Of course proper offset of rims in also very important, alongside with more real tread pattern.

Hi guys, anyone tried to use this controller with app from @imurvai? I'm having some troubles with using it - connection frequently break's, motors don't run with 100% efiiciency or work even with no buttons pressed :(

Hi Eff, is it possible to make a new version of 20z double bevel gear with tooth aligned like in the photo on right side? On the left standard lego 20z gear, on the right my photo-manipulation of needed gear;) It would be also great if you could design those wheelholders to fit in 56x34 mm Technic Racing Medium Wheel :)

Sorry guys, but I've made mistake when I was checking the voltage of the power cell. Correct, nominal voltage is 11,1 V. Power cell consists of 3 x 3,7V Li-Ion cells. Originally they were used in laptop battery, then formed in one piece. Photos below show the modification in Lego cable: Parameters from Sbrick when fully charged: Sbrick doesn't have problems with this voltage, I think because it's not valid ;) As far as I remember, voltage on fully charged battery is around 11.7-12 V.

Thanks everyone for Your kind words, especially because some of Your works were great inspiration for me :) Building this model, testing it and then making a movie for the first time was a great experience. Nevertheless now I can see a lot of things I could do better. I hope to take them under consideration when I start to build next MOC :) As for the performance and custom parts: During beta testing I've tried a lot of configurations of the engines, gear ratios and parts used in the transmission. Couple of differentials were damaged during them, but none of them was the one made by Efferman. I think they can take more stress than the Lego parts. Big diffrence was made by using this part than the original from Lego (CV joint was able to rotate in it, part made by Efferman is tighter). CV joints are from Lego, because those 3D printed are too fragile. Here You can read more about tires I've used.

Hello everybody, I would like to present to You my first MOC: Compact SUV. Gol of the project was to create a model, which would follow the parameters of SUV and Crossover cars, that we can see nowadays on our roads. Inspiration for this MOC were products of certain car company, but it's not a perfect copy of any specific model. Basic parameters are: - dimensions in studs: 53x24x24, weight aprox. 1,7 kg, - propulsion: 2 LEGO XL PF motors, - steering by LEGO Servo Motor, - communication with model by sBrick, power by custom 11,1 V Li-Ion power cell, - gear ratio 1,2:1, - max speed aprox. 6 km/h, - differentials designed and 3D printed by Efferman. Enjoy the video!

Hello everyone, recently I've decided to give a try to 3d printed custom Lego parts from Efferman. I would like to share my opinion about them. Wheelholders in 8880 supercar style: They looked very promising in terms of durability for bigger torque. This occured to be true, the idea for hubs is very good, they can take quite big stress. But if you think of making realy strong semi-axis in independent suspension system, you need to use also this part on the other end of the swivel. Without using it, the hole semi-axis durability is dependent on CV joint :( Another disadventeges of this part are: smaller turning radius compered to Lego hubs and incompatibility with lego Technic Racing Small Wheel 43.2mm x 26mm :( Wheelholders touch the rims in 4 points, also when you put the wishbone. I suggest to make whole part wider, to match with Racing Small Rims. Diff 3m 28Z 4 Bevel gears: For now it is working very good, I think it can take more torque than standard Lego differential. Male Cv Joint 2,5 M: I was hoping them to be more durable than standard CV joint, but they proved to be less durable. They snap very easily, in the point where the head is joining the axle :( But they fit better between the hubs and female joints. I hope my opinions are helpfull :)

Hi guys, recently I've bought some third-party tires for my lego creations. I was looking for tires with real-life width and tread, with outer diameter from 80 to 90 mm. I've decided to give a try for RC 1.7 inch tires, I've chosen those: 1.7" LE Standard Tires 84mm. My goal was to fit them with Lego Technic Racing Small Wheel 43.2mm D. x 26mm. As you can see, the tires inner diameter and outer rim diameter are almost the same. This was promising sign, but when the tires arrived, there was a disappoitment. Tire diddin't hold on the rim, because it didn't reach the flange of the rim. Tire should have maximum inner diameter of 39,5 mm to hold properly on those rims. Knowing this, I've decided to try and make the hole in tire smaller. For this I've used a rubber like plastic cut in 2x2 mm strip. I've secured them on the tires with super-glue like this: After putting foam inside, with great carefulness, I've put modified tires on rims: The result was very good. Tires hold properly on rims, they don't slip off while driving, and the strip of plastic is almost invisible. But without the foam tire might slip off from flange. Rubber, which tires are made of, is more stiff than lego rubber, and with foam inside wheel is getting even harder to squeeze. But while driving they work very well and have good grip. Comparison with Lego tires: Used on MOC: Although 1.7 inch RC tires don't match perfectly on Lego rims, with little effort, it is possible to make them work together. I think the outcome is worth it :)

I would be very greatfull if someone could give feedback about this part: Mcpherson steering hub. Is it possible to make it drive and steer? Do it need to be linked with some wheel hubs? Thx in advance.