Attika

Hi again, sorry to hear the faliure. The Lego servo isn't that bad, you'll be fine.

I've been silently following the progress from the beginning since it turned out to be an ASTON. Well built chassis with great functions then as the bodywork begun to take shape and I had to admit it was very ASTONISH. Now spectating the rear end I think there is one word to sum up this build: ASTONISHING

I do and glad to hear these good news. Thank you guys in advance.

Well this series of experiment and the collected data would be enough for a PhD on the subject. Both the project and the video is well done. (you've got a new sub here) Personally I came to the same conclusion when I've built my ripsaw about a year ago. Less weight means more than additional power. Not surprisingly the recipe of speed was the same: 2 buggy motors, sbrick and lipo (buwizz didn't exist yet). Great topic, thanks for sharing it. And an additional for the twist on your name (balage)

As an archer, owning a compound bow (not crosbow thogh) I find the mechanism heart warming. I do have a plan also to recreate a compound bow from technic parts, but it is far in the future. (i guess) There is always something "more important ahead in the queue. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

And that all doesn't matter as long as it is so BEAUTYFUL. Actually it looks better than the real one. I guess there will be a video about a testdrive. (?)

Hi, What I think is the link shows a totally different battery, not what you were asking about. So it is hard to tell. But to clearify the numbers: Sbrick' limit 10.5 volt. Don' go above. Lego recievers are not even worth to mention with any unique power source, they can overheat even from the regular AA battery box. All the lego motors are 12 v motors, using them on 9 volt is a safety issue for extended lifetime. You've been writing so many numbers that I have vertigo. 14.8 volt Lipo is must be a 4S Lipo (3.7x4) but those on full charge give you (4.2x4) 16.8 volts. That will surely fry everything. I'm using Lipo's, infact I'm using ONLY Lipo's for years now. You don't need more than 2S lipo battery that is 8.4 volt on full charge. What matters is the current it is capable to deliver, and even this "low voltage" solutions are sometimes overheating the buggy motors. The next step would be the 3S Lipo what delivers 12.6 volts, but that is gonna kill your reciever sooner or later and/or the buggy motor. If you have the recource to replace these things frequently (motors and recievers) than go on, otherwise use 2S Lipo's and all your parts will last for years. Or buy a Buwizz that gives you 10.5 volt and this limit is not accidental. That is about the top f safe voltage for lego parts.

Very pretty build overall. As I've spent a long time on developing a cranetruck like this (ended up being my first published video) I appreciate the solutions of the telescopic boom you came up with. Beautyful MOC. Waiting for the video...

Thanks. If I get myself to make a proper photosequence I let you know, but at the moment I barely can keep up with my new builds,so it might take some time.

No worries, I didn't mean to stop you on this noble quest, I've just covered some intermediate solutions you might not concidered. But you prooved that your heart is clear, so all I can say you won't be alone on the road. I'm a fan of fast things too, frequently using my rc buggy motors, Sbricks and Rc heli Lipo's. This combination satisfies me speed and powerwise. Feel free to look around on my youtube to see what is it enough for. (the ripsaw and the driftcar I'd offer into your attention) I understand though the limit is way beyond that (if there is one at all)

I guess you have nothing to worry about. Since I came back from my long sleep (almost 20 years) to the world of bricks I experience short periods with no interest in building at all. Some of these took months. At the middle of the first one I went so far that I've listed my whole collection on ebay. Thanks God noone wanted to buy it off from me. But it has a pay off. When the clouds have gone I had a seriously inspired and successful time. It's like in the Lord of the rings. Grey Gandalf disapeared and came back as White Gandalf, a level higher than he was before... Since then every time I loose inspiration, I patiently wait, knowing that this unwanted rest gives me "new powers" But I couldn't figure what triggers the changes. Anyway my battlenet account is in heavy use on those days. My advice: do not force it.

Welcome here, you have quite a plan. Glad to hear that your dark age is over. Few questions? Sbrick as a Lego friendly alternative to replace the IR reciever? It has bluetooth connectivity. I'm a happy user of them. One of our member (imrvai) made an application to pair the Sbrick with game controller trough an android device. Life saving solution for our kind. Pf Servo motor does a fairly good job, you did not mention it, nor your concerns about it. By using that you have no problem with the fitting. I'm using Lipo's too and frequently appologizing for doing so. But I'm happy with the 2S pack (infact I'm using 2 single cell) On long therm it is a safer voltage for PF elements although I know those motors are technically 12 volt designs, the Sbrick has a 10.5 v limit. As far as I know Lego hasn't upgraded it's electronics to be fast because the main user group are children. If the creation goes fast and far the child follows it by runing out perhaps on a road, and could be hit by a car or something. So the reason behind the technology kept down is health and safety. So long story short, I'm one of those who understand your demands, but probably you don't need to go that far to reach an acceptable performance.

It'll take a week to get there, on my timescale it's just a blink of an eye. Yep it's cute on it's own right, just like it is meant to be. 2 PF L motors for a vehicle this size is more than a lot, especially with the 8/24 gearing. Sadly the bottlenecks are the 12t bevel gear connections. So the weight supposed to be kept down. That's why it hasn't got doors. (or am I just repeating myself? No, I hate doors)

No, you didn't. It's not quite ready yet. The one on the pic is the manual version. You probably remember when we came up with the same gearbox? That was made for this at the first place. It is shaping since... The motorized is on the way, will be published together.

Thanks. If you went trough the story above the video, it pretty much explains your concern. " so let me speak in my deffense: Once the chassis was done I was scratching my head what body should I put on it. bla-bla-bla" It wasn't made to be an off roader at the first place. My recent project however: But that is a different story

This is the best real size RC toy ever. Quite a challange in Lego indeed.

Hello guys, Good Friday is here, everything is together to build but I'm somehow out of the ispiration. So I've decided to make a video about one of my old MOC's, however all those pics and vids I made back then are somewhat low quality. Excuse me for that please. It is an almost FJ40 looking dwarf jeep. Started out as an experimental chassis. Madoca's CUV had an interesting drivetrain and that inspired me to build the same concept as dense as it is possible. Accordingly it uses two PF L motors to drive each side separatelly trough an 8/24 gear ratio. A PF Servo motor is responsible for the steering and all govern by an Sbrick. As power source I could've use a AAA battery box, but since I'm addicted to my Lipo solution, I've used those. You may complain for the inaccuracy of using independent suspension in a jeep, so let me speak in my deffense: Once the chassis was done I was scratching my head what body should I put on it. As I said this is an old project, it has been done sometime when the FJ40 fewer gone across in the community. I'm being not quite good in building bodywork, decided to make something similar mostly following the shapes of rm8's FJ40. Probably it is a bit out of proportions, but since it was looking cute I've let it be as it was. Much later when I've discovered the Axle Collection Thread, I've find something similar to this suspension and drivetrain so I don't think it is any revolutionary here for you. Anyway, I hope you like this video peppered with some happy classical music. Happy Easter

Fair enough, and the reasoning behind does absolutely support your decision. Not to mention the reliability.

Amazing design and build. I guess once you "tasted" the Lipo's there is no way back to the battery box. Did you use substractor, or simply connected the motors to each side?

That part when it is drifting in the dust is really badass Cool. I've just realized from the street view that I've seen some of your crazy motorised sets before but didn't connect the dots. All deserves a

Now that is "sick" And I thought I have "too many". I was wrong.

I couldn't even deny having them. My latest MOC is a traitor.

Ohh, why are you tempting me? I don't wanna do this, I don't wanna do this.... Those susp arms look so much more fit for the purpose...

If it goes smaller it might collapse and become a black hole. Nice design.

Just make sure you counter steer.