Attika

Yeah, Rossi pops in every now and then for advice too... Hell, no, lately I'm an armchair biker, gone for 4 wheels too, it is much better (dryer) under the British skies.

I'm not really into this bot business, but I like the simplicity of yours. However the remote got me even more.. Anyway you have my support. It is HUN-belivable.

Thanks Void_S, I'm a big fan of bikes for twenty some years now, and happened to be a motorbike courier for 3-4 years in London on a CB 500(killing business ). Combining this with being a mechanical minded person I gathered quite an experience on this subject. There is a delicate balance between the front and the rear tyres of a motorbike. If the difference is to big -like on custom made choppers- the two wheels choose different path on uneven road surface or let say tram track. The narrow (front) goes one way, the wide (rear) goes another. The only exeption I know about is the Ducati Diavel where they nailed the perfect handling despite the significant difference between the two wheels. But back to the Lego: I've tried the single rim on the red-white's front, it was looking funny at best. As I had no intermediate solution so I went with the double. Shame on me. Regarding the Connector bike (black and white) that is just a sketch. I've built the frame just to find out what size it suppose to be to match the scale of the wheels, but it is yet to work out. The empty "belly" is waiting for a proper transmission etc. So it won't be so deserted on the end of the process. In it's current phase it isn't more than an experiment stuck between being a double cradle and a delta box chassis. Time will decide how it ends up.

I'm glad you like it guys. Click on the picture where you see my hands and the wheels and it diverts you to the flickr. You can watch it there.

Playability is nailed. And the video is quite relaxing thanks to the music.... Nicely done.

Hello good people of Eurobricks, The other day I built up the set 8051 motorbike applying some minor modification like different color scheme and some change on bodywork to make it look like more like a stuntbike. These changes did not alter the basic geometry and size. (apart from the rear fork what is one stud shorter.) Despite the fact that I caught the stuntbike feeling quite well (for my taste at least) I couldn't get along with the end product. I figured the wheels were slightly bigger (in diameter) than they supposed to be. So I grabbed my tape measure, digged up some pics on google of real bikes and came to the conclusion that these wheels are about 10 percent out of scale compare to the real proportion. The lack of width made the impression even worse to me. Trying to solve the problem I begun to play around with the old type bike wheels. I found their diameter is just the desired size but these were ridiculously narrow for the job. Searching in the forum here I've seen some builders used two of these rims with this tyre from the set 8448 Street sensation. The flat profile didn't make me happy though. Finally I worked out something using two rims and two tyres of the old type. The result has the right diameter, width, and rounded profile as it should be. (video at the end of the post) Here is a picture to illustrate the proportion problems: Upper left: Original 8051 Upper right: A random naked bike Lower left: my "pimped" 8051 with smaller wheels Lower right: The original wheels of 8051 built into a frame with realistic proportion As I said above the difference isn't huge, but it is there. Here is a few more pic to highlight the point I'm trying to make: I wonder if you guys share my opinion on this subject... Few more pics of these bikes: I know the front tyre sholdn't be this wide, but still better than a single (IMHO) Please note that this "connector bike" is still under development. It is meant to represent the size of bike I found appropriate to the wheel size. On the rear wheel I'm using the rear tyre of 8420 Street Bike. It fits perfectly on the new rim. Also I made a tutorial video, how to make that wide tyre modification: (Purist may find it disturbing . I can ensure you no harm done to any parts. Luckily those old tyres are so soft they can take any abuse.) Hope you can find some usefull in the post. Happy sunday.

Certainly would be more appropriate than answering a question addressed 5 years back. Like I did above... The sign of aging

Hi, as you may noticed I approach this hobby a bit more free from rules. Probably one day the Lego police is going to lock me up for building illegal things, but for the time being I keep doing it. So by mentioning Li-po's I think I should share my (almost) latest experiment: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/33446568771/in/album-72157678342432663/ This specimen is an RWD driven by a single Rc buggy motor what is feeded trough an Sbrick powered by Rc Lipo batteries. I don't recommend to use 3 cell 11.1 v Lipo as the 11.1 is a nominative voltage. When it is charged it is 12.4 V and that is way to much for safe usage in the Lego electrics. Just as Lego's rechargable Lipo, using 2 cells gives you 8.4 volts, and that will do the job. Less than 9volts, but easily gives enough amp to make the rc motor sing very happily. Last year I shared a tutorial video about how to use Rc Lipo's with Lego Ough, I gonna burn for this so badly. Few more thoughts: In the last month or two I've been buildng quite a number of drift machines to find that experience when you really in control, even even the car is skiding sideways. Most (not all) technic driftcars I've seen doing doughnuts and that's it. The video I've linked above is not the "latest", but it has already one important feature: wheelbase. I figured as longer it is, makes handling better. Next step: It would be crucial the to have real delicate control on the throttle to achive to get the last chunk of proper handling. Unfortunatelly I couldn't make this part right. I'm using a game controller and Sbrick paired by Imurvai's app (God bless Him ). For me is miles better than any touchscreen, still I failed to make the throttle as sensitive as I wanted. But then I found the cure: AWD https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/33575670705/in/album-72157678342432663/ This red one has two Rc motors each driving one axle. Having the front driven gave the desired handling but had to lower the grip of the tyres. Considering that the real drift tyres are much harder material than the street ones I could justify to mess with it. I don't like plastic wheels, those make horrible noise and provide no grip at all. But we need some, so my favorite asset came to the stage: Insulation tape. Gives enough grip to move the car, but not enough to keep the traction when cornering. For me the recipe was to use a strip covering about 80 percent of tyre width. This is where the caster on the front axle comes handy. When the front wheels steered any direction they are tilting as well therefore thouching the ground by their edge. The edge isn't covered by the tape, giving more grip when cornering on the front so it is pulling the car to the desired direction. While when the steering set straight there is equal (lack of) grip on both axles. Here is a video how it drives. Excuse me for the quality, I get my new device next week and can start to record things in better (publishable) quality. Also the room is small for this kind of activity. The car is like a bird trying to fly in a cage. https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/33629261745/in/album-72157678342432663/ I hope it helps

What a beauty! I just fell in love. So much attention on the details (as always)...

Lipkopedia (or Lipko-Wiki) Well designed MOC's in their well deserved Library. I like it, thanks for creating and sharing.

Listen to your future customers like @Pawlo above. Hand painted parts are more vulnerable than colored material. We talking about parts taking serious physical abuse, don't we? Well, future business man, look at the market you trying to compete with. Lego wheels at the first place then other 3rd party solutions. Apart from a few type of Lego wheels everything is way cheaper then your product and I mean less than half price. The wheel being hand painted is rather a disadvantage (IMHO), so I don't wanna pay for that. Especially not 40 extra dollars for special colors. To answer the question: 20 bucks. In any color. According the number of backers on kickstarter you should do something. The good news is: It can't get worse. Good luck!

Hello new comers, called Black Bird Custom, I feel like I'm your targeted customer as I'm a non-purist Lego fan. That means I'm spending a fortune on 3rd party products and 3D printed parts too, I'm even savage enough to cut and glue genuine lego parts. Having that said I've got a few questions and notes about your project. Before that however let me excuse myself in advance. I assume the purpose of your post is to screen the audience and get feedback. If so, here are my impressions please don't take it as offense. 1.Scale Reading the numbers the diameter of the wheel is about 46mm with the tyre on. That seems to be sort of 1:12 (ish) scale. Why did you come up with this particular size and do you have in plan to make different sizes at all? Diameter/width ratio: The reason I've turned towards 3rd party rims and wheels is that the Lego wheel have unrealistic dimensions. For me those way too wide for a given diameter what makes the Moc looking out of the right scale, makes a challange to reach some acceptable steering geometry due to the lack of offset on the rims. These are the reasons turned me to use 1:10 RC rims at the first place beside the aestetic reasons. Now on the pictures of yours I can see some offset, and that's something I appreciate but the the radius of the wheel is actually smaller than the width. That ratio fits for a rear wheel of a Bugatti Veyron and that's it. 2.Color and texture: I read about hand painted rims. Is it only for prototypes or the molded ones will be hand painted too? (You mentioned exclusive colors) When I wrote texture I meant that these are 20 spoke rims. Will there be a range of types sooner or later? 3. Price I understand it is 80 us dollars for four wheels in standard (silver?) color. Don't get it wrong but that is some astronomical price even for me who spends 200 pounds a month easily on this hobby. Just to put it in perspectiv. Last week I bought a set of alloy (!) 1.10 RC rims with rubber tyres for 13 pounds. Plastic ones are priced even lower from 5 pouns per 4 pieces. All the rc rim needs is a 12 tooth single bevel gear clicked into the hex hole and it is ready to go on axle with better geometries,ratios and look. Not to mention the rnge of types you can choose from. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262291404060?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 4. Name Those who are familiar with the AFOL Lego community surely bumped into Blackbird name and his extensive work. Now it isn't my task to speak for him so I won't, but when I clicked this post I thought that is something to do with him. Realising that it isn't the case made me a feel a little stupid as I figured it would have been more suprising to see him selling 3rd party stuff. Anyway I find quite unfortunate choice to use this name in the "lego business" Sorry again being honest, but lying about it doesn't get you further. Good luck for the project anyway.

Excellent report. So well illustrated I felt like I'm there too. Thanks for sharing. And "gratula" one more time.

Do not hesitate

Great idea. I've just put it together to see how it performs and it is promising. Made a minor change however, I swapped the beams with a long ribbed hose. Thanks for sharing, I like it. (By the way the cv joint socket looks pretty abused on the picture.. Another thumb up )

I've got no words. Funniest masterpiece of engineering I've ever seen. "James for president!"

It's ended up to be a remarkable build. Hats off. I'm looking forward to build it.

It is small, hats off. Converting into studless seems tricky . 1/3 stud! , I'll thinker on it. Worth it.

With all due respect actually it does. There is a 2 stud long "telescopic" travel on the top of the forks on the 9L axles, therefore the handlebar is independent from the forks. It is right in the level of the mudguard, easy to miss on the pics.

And it is done. DCC. Three letters. The car industry is hunting for these things.

Great suspension system, that caster angle just warming my heart trough

We have been here before (or above). In this setup it is easy to spectate, not covered by beams yet performs well in a non motorized model. The same reason it is in all the colors of a parrott: Demonstrating on video. I made a terrible picture quickly to show it how it is built in my case. The 16t gear is supported from both side. (Technically that axle drives the dummie engine). As I was writing above, if it is built in there must be a chassis anyway. Leave my red clutch gear alone

Yep, that is what I wanted you to discover. I think this way was more entertaining than if I just told you... For that you need two "layers" of gears just as it is done in your version. My goal was to minimize the size. Beside that the chassis I built it for has the "flexibility" to handle this odd position as the dummie engine is connected to the gearbox by a pair of uni joints. Later maybe in another built if it requires I'll change that front part.

In the non motorized model there isn't any sign of that. In first gear, when the dummie engine's rev is the highest it is runing it smoothly.

So, one issue the connectors and the gear on pin. When I buld a car the chassis itself designed to be the frame of the gearbox, so put it this way this is a self sustaining frame for demonstration purposes. In this form it is capable to be built in a 1:10 scale non motorised model and perform without problem. If I was to put an XL motor on it and pull the furniture around I build a frame out of studded technic parts. (in fact I did ) For me a gearbox means the layout of the gears, frame is like outfit: up to the occasion. Gear on the pin is the same thing. Price of the short length is some width no dubt, but the seats will be in the level of the ball joint of the lever, so the seats ar above the gears. It is a pickup truck, so kinda reasonable. And of course please look at the frame as an interchangeable thing.