Attika

I'd appreciate a feedback. Thank you in advance. I quickly built yours by the video. If I can hold and roll it around gives me a better feeling and understanding. The main problem I had is to change mine to the 1-3, 2-4 sequence. Now having both on my desk helped me understand something rather funny. Instead of revealing it now I give you a housework: How would you turn yours into manual (1-2, 3-4 sequence)? Beside that I have to confess, I didn't really follow anything lately, but having a deeper look now this supercar is impressing.

Thanks. It's gonna be a small scale pickup truck. I share your feeling about half studs, but it is a trade off on the size market... By the way I'm glad you remembered and the way you treat the 8880 evo the other day. Thanks. But back to the gearbox: you have any idea how turn this one into sequential? The symmetric structure doesn't help, does it?

Thank you for the nice words. The method you mentioned is clearly right, but consuming too much space if it is used in a small scale model. That's why I went this way. The model I built this for is only 11 studs wide inside.

Hi Fellas, I've built a gearbox for 4x4 vehicles and it is rather space efficient. Hope you find it usefull. As usual, I'm being lazy and copy-paste the video description as it has all the basic info. Please feel free to ask, judge, or comment and I try to give my best in the reply It is rather small, I'd love to claim that it is the smallest of it's kind. (but I'm not sure, so I don't say that yet.) Help me find out. Dimensions: L: 7 studs W: 9 studs H: 5 studs Comes with the usual gear ratios: 1st gear 8/24 x 16/24 2nd gear 8/24 x 16/16 3rd gear 16/24 4th gear 16/16 The selector lever required some attention as the upper axles are 5 stud apart. I've been using some rare parts there: -Technic Ball Joint with Through Axle Hole http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53585#T=C -Bar 4L (Lightsaber Blade / Wand) http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=30374&idColor=16#T=C&C=16 However this lever mechanism can do the shifting quite well, it still not "stupidproof" and need some attention while changing gears. The frame (housing) First. It is made so colorfull to help you dear watcher separate the parts on the video. For motorized version I recommend to rebuild the housing using studded technic parts. Input/Output Outputs are self-explanatory, two red axle ends sticking out from the differential. The input in the other hand is the axle with the 8tooth gear on the front. It is offset by 2 studs, but using a pair of gears it can be transfered to the center too. Whats more, it can be done on the front as well as on the rear side. Thank for your attention

Comes up as hidden content, but pics and vid are there. I love your dog. It really has its personality. Grats

Such a beauty...

Great idea, thanks for sharing

And you combined them very well. Nice work.

Great, I'm glad you enjoyed. Looking forward to read the report.

-Did you change the red cluchgear that is against the diff or did you remove the diff? One of these has to be done. - You can use the M motor for the stepper with a rezurn to center mechanism or part: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x928cx1#T=C - For pics a host site needs to be used, like brickshelf or Flickr. Once you have your pic uploaded on the host site you can link it by clicking on the link icon above in the toolbar and paste the link in the box in that window. Keep going

I've been experimenting with rc wheels too. I found that the 12 tooth bevel gear tightly fits to the hexagonal hole. These wheels really shake up the aesthetics and improve steering geometry too by being offset. Some say is heretic though. http://DSC_1397 by Attika Moc, on Flickr

For me the riddle in this topic isn't to solve this problem, but finding out what purpose this solution is needed for... I've got an idea or two but I won't be the one who ruins the game . I'm sure however this isn't a tachometer thingy...

It is indeed a great project, I like the technical solutions you applied. Besides it warms my heart too, as I spent my childhood commuting by these smelly, noisy (BKV blue and VOLAN yellow) buses. (Since I'm an MI-6 agent I can't reveal my nationality publicly.) Good luck for the rest, I'll follow the progress.

If you can afford to use a separate servo motor that could follow the exact position of the train remote "signal". With a simple link system on the servo you can achieve that linear movement. Sorry if it doesn't matches your demands, you really left us in a mysterious enviroment..

That is exactly why I did ask you about the diff. If you noticed I was using 3 red clutch gears and 1 old type grey. The one that has direct connection with the differential shouldn't be the red becouse of the collar. The red has collar on both sides, the grey has only on the cluchside. It makes unwanted friction!!!!! But before you change it consider this: To power fake engine from the front output is ok. But if you use differential all the torque goes to the way of lower resistance, in our case to the fake engine and your car wont make an inch of a movement but the fake engine revs up. That is what a differential does. So here is the thing: You should exchange the differential to the 2wd version setup (16 and 24 gears+connector between them) and leave the red clutchgears as they are. Please check these things before you get forward.

"a pain" Let say challenge... 4 speeders usually have offset in/outputs. So as much as I see on the pic (it's pretty small, I've used magnifier) you worked out to build the input/output in center, what is a good approach. Me myself building it the same way. Finding out how to build a "stronger" chassis around it is really up to the concept of the MOC in your head, I can't help from the distance. If I find some free time this weekend I'lll build a motorised chassis too with this gearbox, but will use a pair of buggy motors. If I make any progress I'll post some pictures here hopefully those give you some hint or inspiration. In my experience I need to build something 2-20 times to eliminate the flaws. It takes a master builder to come up with the perfect version for the first attempt. My fingers are crossed for you, don't give up, I appreciate that you gave the chance for this gearbox, I hope wont dissapoint you. Some technical notes: Did you changed it to 2wd by not using the differencial? Also I wrote in the vid's description that it can take a limited torque. 2PF XL motors are likely to make the driving rings slip out. I'd be gad if you could share your experience later in this subject.

The green band I was using isn't Lego one, so can't give you a part number. I had a feedback from didumos69. He was using the red Lego bands: " I used two red silicon bands, one wrapped twice around the limiter and one wrapped once around the stepper." (quote from post No. 13) What I can tell, if you don't have those bands, you can experiment with non lego rubber bands. The principal is that the limiters band should be stronger than the steppers band. There is plenty of way to adjust them, wrapping them around the ball joint, or twisting it on the stepper. It might take a 5 minutes of experimenting to find the right combination. I couldn't resist seeing the demand, so here is a solution using original Lego silicone bands. White on the limiter wrapped around both ball joint once. DSC_2005 by Attika Moc, on Flickr[/img] Part on Bricklink: http://www.bricklink....page?P=x37#T=C

You should let the TLG know about it. I guess there are contact details on the paperwork anyway. As they've booked the shipping at the first place so they can make a complain at the shipping company and send you a replacement right away. Don't be shy on this, you deserved to have that display unit right.

Gearbox instruction is inserted into my first post in the topic

Sweeeeet Just looking at it warmed my heart.

Agreed. Tamás earned it.

I've been turning the gearbox around in the video to help this reverse enginering. I'm glad you made it. I think it is also visible on the video that I was using the red, frictionles connectors too under the driving rings. It wouldn't work with the white ones. Yes it is a 4wd gearbox that is why it has two outputs. I've been using the yellow connectors for outputs. If you need a 2wd conversion just substitute the differential with a 16 and a 24 tooth gear by using a connector between them. The red connector in the vid marks the input, but you can place the input to the other end of that shaft by changing the 3L axle with stop to a 4L axle. This is the very reason I did not align the stepper axle to the same level with the changeover catches. If you experience the problem that the ball joints are moving out from the changeover catches, then use a tiny piece of paper or something to make that connection stiffer. This is an actual prototype so there is or can be some design flaws. This gearbox isn't a "ready to publish" product, only a tool to demonstrate the stepper. Anyway I hope you can use it succesfully in your supercar, and sorry again I couldn't get around the gearbox video yet.

Sorry, I'm busy this week. Have to wait till the weekend. Thanks for the interest and the patience. I wish I was a child again...

I'm glad you like the concept. I've just came back from my holiday and the next step is to make the instruction vid for this gearbox and stepper. Hopefully I can find the time in the next few days to make it. I'll link the video to my first post in this topic, so keep an eye on it.

I know this problem, happened to my servos too. You have to take it apart and file the copper contacts and the metal pin what slides on them with a sandpaper. With time these copper parts gets covered with a layer of who knows what but it corrupts the conductivity. Same applies on rc buggy controller. I've done this on 4 or 5 rc controllers and 2 servos. All works fine. As a side effect it is possible that the treated device becomes slightly lauder.