Attika

I think I wasn't clear enough. Sorry. I meant if you were using not a straight connections from the motor to the wheel but a pair of gears (8/24 or 12/20) what slows it down when giving more torque. This way probably it could carry more weight on the way up. I just wasn't sure if the material itself is capable to take more without suffering any damage. I never built in this size so I have no experince. Don't get it wrong it isn't criticism but curiosity.

Sorry, I had an offline weekend. Nice application. I'm glad to contribute in your "big project".

Probably using a watermark or logo in the vids makes these frauds job harder. They have to edit it out (if they are capable to do it at all.) If it sounds stupid that is because I'm new in the business. I'm sharing vids to entertain, not for views or subscribers. Never had the intention to earn money (besides I am nowhere close to this by the numbers) so if this would happen to me I wouldn't stop sharing. But luckily I consider myself a small fish, hopefully far from this "danger"

Impressive size. I guess you've been experimenting enough. Did you make an attempt with a geared down version? I assume the plastic itself sets the limit of the weight it can carry. Amazing work. Grat.

Hi, as I wrote a couple of lines above if you use it a non motorised model there isn't enough countertorque to get it out from the gear. If you motorise it, using either servo motor or pf m motor with return to center mechanism, both holds the lever strong enough to prevent unwanted gearchange. I hope if you watch over the video concidering this explanation you will recognise the effect I wrote and the physics vehind it. I'm abroad right now therefore unable to post a video that highlights this. As you wrote this is a concept only so theres plenty of room to develop it to match certain requirements. Don't hesitate build it and experiment on it. You are free to use and modify it to your own taste. Thanks for poping in. By the way I'd be happy to see if you can improve it in any manner. And this applies on every reader. ;-) And now let me finish my beer :-D

Yes I got that.... my brother laughed too when I read your reply to him.... Looking forward how will you implement it in the porsche

This is the very first version of the stepper I came up with. Due to the lack of time (and the holyday) I didn't try to modify it yet. I'm sure with time it will evolve. Sariels solution has 3 years of development in it. My mechanism is barely a month old. No question that there is a difference in performance. My intention by sharing it in its early stage, to let others think on it and develop it. I belive that collaboration can take things further than contention.

Well, I'm glad you find the slipping as an advantage, what I basically concidered as a disadvantage ;-) I've read your question in Sariel's topic. As I see his solution is more suitable for high torque tasks, as my gearbox frame in this form made for a lightweight 1:8 middle engine (let say) supercar what will be powered by 2 rc buggy motors. That will be my next moc. As It is a 4wd model my gearbox has a central diff as well. Due to these reasons it wasn't designed to be capable to break parts. As I was pointing it out in this post and the video I was going to demonstrate the concept of the stepper what could be built on various gearbox designs. The gearbox you see in this vid is just one and irrelevant as it is only an asset of demonstration. The other question was the size.... Sariel is about the same age as me therefore it feels kinda funny to compare who's got the bigger..... gearbox. :-D (yes, it is meant to be a joke ;-) )

Using different parts certanly changes its behaviour. I'm far from my parts, so a can't confirm how much difference it makes. If you use it with servo motor you wont be able to turn the axle as the motor works as a break on it. If it is used in a non motorised moc there isn't any torqe that causes non wanted gear change .

crediting you is just fair in case like this. Should be natural. I don't have the red rubber ring, so I don't know if it fits for the job or not. The 5 long lever comes with certain advantages as a byproduct of its geometry. By pushing it to the end turns the knobwheel in exact 90 degree position, so the limiters only job is to keep it there until the next gearchange. of course I was experimenting with a 3L version, but did not satisfy me. Less accurate gear change, overall loss of reliability where it ended up. Still I encourage you to build it and experiment on it. One of the main benefit of this design is the smooth gearchange and the really small force that needs to operate it. Thanks for getting back. You are welcome, and thanks.

Sorry, I don't know why did the vid disapear... I've linked it again

Hello fellows, Let me present my idea for a stepper mechanism for sequential gearboxes (4 speeder). Please forgive me giving such a a short description, but I wanted to share this idea before I take of to my hollyday. I didn't even packed yet and I depart tomorrow So I'll insert the video and copy its description here. I'm going to try to get online every day and react on questons and comments. Finally let me say a big thank you for Didumos69 and his 90 degree limiter for the inspiration. This video meant to demonstrate the stepper, not the gearbox. The nature of this design allows it to be used with almost any kind of gearboxes. I'll make instructions for the gearbox later however I've been trying to show it from every angle in the video so you can attempt to reverse engineer it. It isn't that complicated. Stepper: I've got the inspiration from an other idea what Diederik van Leeuwen came up with. He goes by the name of Didumos69 on the Eurobricks forum. Click on the link below to see his post: http://www.eurobrick.../forum/index... The reliability of this stepper depends on the right rubber rings. For the limiter I was using the small lego silicone ring and for the stepper (the green ring) a non lego one that is much weaker than the white. If it is too strong it pulls the knobwheel back instead of sliding trough on it when it returns to the basic position. So find the right combination by experimenting. It requires the frictionless driving rings in the gearbox. The motorisation can be solved by using PF medium motor combined with return to center mechanism too. Sorry for the lack of quality, it was a hasty work. I hope the point I was gonna make gone trough. If there is any question, please use the comment section. I'll try to answer it as quick as I can. Thanks for watching an reading. Hope you find it usefull. There is a few failed changes in the video, those wre caused by applying shorter route on the handle. This design requires to be turned to the end point (about 65 degrees). UPDATE Gearbox instruction video is uploaded:

It is more of the style than the colour. However I have to admit that it is rare to see that much blue anywhere else, but hey, that could be the part of style too.

I've seen the picture of this beauty on a different blog, and without reading a letter I knew it is your work. It is a serious art what you are doing with those panels. And again hats off...

Cool!

Great to see someone else is interested in this subject. I had my attempt to replicate this kind of crane in technic in the same scale, but I had a different approach. I gave up the realistic mechanism for some aesthetcs and that is where it ended up : There is a tiny problem however... it has a bad back, can't lift too much.. :-D

Cool Idea! I wonder what will you get with the buggy motors... By the way what kind of lab you are building? Breakin' bad?

Seems to be a real fun. The bodywork is jaw dropping. Again.

Hi István, I don't know how did this topic slip my attention up to this day, but I'm glad I've found it. Reading it top to bottom I really happy and appreciate all your effort that you put into this project. In about 5 minutes I'll order a controller. Long story short: Thank you Attila

I'm afraid it won't work. The 7L rack mesh with the 12 tooth gear what is bigger in diameter than the wormgears are. Wormgears have the diameter same as the 8 tooth gear. But if you use one of the old type of racks that should do the job. Sadly those aren't odd number of studs. (6,8,10,etc)

There is. I mean hope. Those pics I made to help me rebuild wouldn't be useful at all. But there is an urge to make it right. I'll be on it. Please give me some time. Thank you for the nice words too.

What an incredible idea the tubes as cable housing. This bike is better than what I was capable to imagine. Hat off.

47 x 37,5 x 15 cm. Smaller than those you've listed

Seems ok to me. I have no idea what causes the difference. Paul Boratko claimed that his model does well, just like yours, but his wife's model fails by 10-15 degrees. I guess you go ahead and build it. Keep tasting the shifter as you get further in the building procedure.

That's right. Before I posted this mod I noticed that there is a "close call", so I tested for good, and never failed. The knobwheel shouldn't even go that deep behind as it goes. My advice is to get that shifting cube out as it is and build it again. That is what I do in similar situation...