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Attika

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Attika

  1. I think I've noticed the same, but it is more of a "stickyness". It is a sort of friction building up between the two parts particularly at the compressed state. Can be called that lack of smoothness. I had it on both kind and I have both kind without the problem. I gave it a good wash as in the years it is unavoidable to buld up some dust sedimentation, that helped a lot. Me personally applied some minuscule amount of silicone grease too on the inner rod. All good as gold now. Probably you're right, the black seems to be less rigid than the gray counterpart btw. Thanks. Redhog is on the shelf. It is a bit humid around here lately. Thank you. I've got an update here. Your reaction on the hood made you to be the perfect addresse for the tailgate-bedcover update. I felt guilty having left that end of the truck shamefully simple. Not anymore, though. Also used the time to build it in studio: @agrof I recall some interest of yours in the digital version. If a studio file does the job, then be my guest, please: https://bricksafe.com/files/Attika77/ultimate-pickup/Ultimate_Pickup_PF_L.io
  2. So I never gonna get that point back? You just destroyed the platform... You're very welcome. I guess keeping the weight down is a half success here. 1.3 kg only. It just doesn't collapse under it's own weight.
  3. What you're suggesting, sir is called plan "A". The video covers plan "B" Literally the first time I did anything like this. Anyway, only my heart broke during this experiment.
  4. Hm. That minus point put me this low? Serious allegation requires serious proof. Just to clarify, I was crying when I did this. Not my cup of tea, but I had to defend what's left. For your amusement : https://drive.google.com/open?id=15SEoWLawYoVhlvipwQ1A7K1pqBspQOmb Edit: After the second roll the steering crosslink came off on the left hub. That's what I'm clicking back to it's place. No harm came on the body from the experiment (old, sloppy pin has been replaced on the link, that's considered safe now)
  5. You did the math, for sure. Sounds very promising, great concept.
  6. Well, I couldn't resist. Despite your suggestion, I did not touch the wheelbase. Had more benefit from it on steep hills. However, in the locker I've found a chassis for the pickup, equipped with buggy motors. You know, just in case. So I've put the big balloons on it, got togheter a more crawler-like body and now I'm waiting for the rain to stop. Few days, weeks maybe. Greeting from England. A teaser anyway, to know what to expect:
  7. The blue pin touches the collar from the side, not from the bottom, hence it isn't pushing the ring upward.. That's how I meant.
  8. I didn't have to, I choose to. There were alternative solutions mentioned above. The price I don't wanna pay. I guess this is where the misunderstanding based on relevancy. On a wider setup it might just work perfectly. Had that already.
  9. Built it with the pin. Now it is obvious. Does your inner collar on the ring rub against the upper wishbone? Mine does. It will work with PF motors, allthough there is some friction and noise, but the buggy motor will melt it. There is some limiting factor on steering too. Anyway, it's a very close call to be legal solution.
  10. Cool, the blue half pin was't obvious. Still if the gap between the cv's not locked, they gonna come together. Looking forward to hear about your experiences. That's another way I guess.I've just gone for a more reliable solution, to not struggle on the field. In long therm it pays out. I've got plans with tis axle.
  11. The first problem with this solution is the free movement of the driving ring. It slips down easily to the hub. The main problem: it does not solve anything. I try to describe the issue: Looking at just one side, there is an old cv coming from the diff, then the new cv into the hub. The issue is the gap between them. There is a 1/4 stud "naked" axle. (circled on the right side of the pic) Why 1/4 stud? That is the left side of the picture to explain. So if I didn't cut that axle, I must be using a 2L axle. The math, as follows: 1.5 stud in the old cv + 0.25 stud between + 1stud in the new cv = 2,75. Can't use 3L, but the 2L isn't enough and here is why: When the drivetrain comes under torque, the rotational forces in the differential are pushing the side axles (old cv's) outward. In usual paralel suspension the gap would not appear, so only whole studs are everywhere. The old cv could be locked in space with bushes behind. In my setup the 1/4 stud gap is enough to let the old cv come out from the diff. So the gap itself is a necessary bad to keep both cv's in their right place. My problem is to stabilize that gap, so the cv's can't get closer to each other. That is why at this moment I use an axle cutted to 2,75 studs. Math is above.
  12. I'll bring it in for you: Reaction: It is entirely irrelevant for a geometrical problem that occurs in my setup, not to mention it doesn't apply on the given width of the axle. For the future, upload the pics with original resolution. Bricksafe will reduce it to be suitable for this site. Geometrical anomalies as it is, usually get solved by great thinkers like @Didumos69 . Need your help here, Lord of Triangles!
  13. No problem, google helped me out on translation. If you have google drive, you can upload the pics there and copy the link to your post.
  14. That's why it is recommended to use a picture hosting site, like bricksafe. so you can link as many pictures you want.
  15. Thanks, paid my toll, so I could return. Brought back usefull ideas from the "dark side". Some of which I've implemented here. My signature move.... That is good news for two reasons: 1, I wasn't aware that Lego has a solution for solid axle with 5+ stud ground clearance, using the the new hubs. But soon I can fix it with your help. See, just what I've said. I post a flawed idea, another member comes and solves the problem. Thank you in advance. 2, Finally you post something, contributing with somethig more than an arrogant opinion.
  16. Thanks, it leaves more room for the imagination. You know, I was just about to do that. This summer I had a journey into the RC hobby. I had a few small scale kits, enjoyed building them, great fun on it's own right. Have a 1/10 4wd buggy as well. It reaches 50km/h with the upgraded brushless electronics. Fine machine with custom built body. My finger was already shaking above the mouse button to buy a traxxas trx-4. One sophisticated truck it is. Gearbox, portals, lockable diffs, bullet (and water)proof electronics apart from the servo. 500 quid. And just in time the first news came in about the new planetary hub. My thoughts shifted back to Lego again. Started to build the 8x8, etc. Finally I got here, where I've built something similar to the dream I was chasing in the RC hobby. Sbrick: Really? That is over the line now? Could be 2 IR receiver if I had a PF switch, as one motor have to be reversed. Lipo: Happened to be the same size, capacity, voltage, what is built into the Lego Lipo box. I'm sorry, I choose to save 40+ pounds on a plastic casing. Doesn't really effects the performance anyway. (It's gonna be crutial for the buggy motor version though. You gonna hate that... ) Rc tyres: The same size in lego tyres would be this one, with the well known nasty side effect: it slips on the rim. Should I glue it to be able to use? Cutted part: Yep, I did it, the other way was to use a very precise amount of random filling (tissue, or paper) to fill the 0.75 stud hole in the old cv beside the 2L axle. By cutting those axles, I've eliminated one known anomaly to test the setup as a whole. If it turned out to be useless, you never know about it. but it worked. Hopefully the common wisdom here can find a solution for the 1/4 stud problem. If so, then the concept becomes ethicaly pure and can be commonly used. Wouldn't be the first time when a flawed idea gets polished to perfection by another member.
  17. Definitely. At the first quick look I thought it has 4 separately linked axles. The gif has dragged my attention before I had a good look on the structure.
  18. Thank you. This one easily sweeps away the predecessors. I'm orking on the digital copy slowly but surely.
  19. That couch climb is otherwordly. Oversized caterpillar on nitro! Nice. I had an unreal thought: What if you hinge the chassis behind the first- and at the front of the 4. axle, and spring load them. So when it reaches the "couch corner", the front of the chassis with the front axle does tilt up for an extent, somewhat guiding the rest of the chassis. Like a real caterpillar. It is only possible if no drivetrain goes through the chassis, and you have that lucky case. On a second look its not that obvious due to the tandem-like setup.
  20. @grego18f for some reason I can't quote you. Anyway, the way I presented the steering linkage, leaves a lot for the imagination, so don't blame yourself. Have no cats, it was just a figure of speech, but got panel built boxes for darts spares etc. You must climb that ladder quickly. Bosses are excused, aren't they?
  21. Thank you guys, sorry for the delay, had the pickup to focus on. So yes, the hubs I couldn't even dream of. And it's here. Don't forget to give it some lub. Extends the lifespan.
  22. Thank you, indeed, the weight won't be a problem for the drivetrain anymore. (If it is built correctly) About that 4L link setup, I have no idea. Could you post a picture or something? Cheers, I'm trying my best. What a wonderful time to live. That would be handy. As I'm aging, there isn't much of a chance to learn panel based building. Yes there is, but there is a tiny chronological problem. I haven't even started to build it digitally yet.. I'm an analog developer. However in the next few weeks I'll build it in studio. Let you know when it's ready. Another fun fact: She came to the world as a swb. However that was a buggy motor setup. I've stretched it for the scale look and the climbing ability. Besides the current PF-L setup makes a long block what is placed between the front and rear cantral links. So in this setup there is only 2 studs to cut off. But could do with my buggy motored version. Thanks for the shared excitement. Thank you, about the steering: The vertical axle with the connector is attached to a 9L link, what connects to right sud hub. That 9L link is the swinging bit and it gives a good amount of suspension travel with reliable steering. So the servo contros only 1 hub, and the two hubs are connected behind the axle. But I might missed the point you raised. Let me know, please. About the tubular build: That's me, not the lack of parts. I gave my panels to the cats to play with, barely use them.... Those, who know me for long say it is recognizable. In other words: It's not ugly, it is art.
  23. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Attika77/ultimate-pickup In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
  24. Nicely done. Eyecatching details everywhere, but my favorit section is the suspension. Especially inthis scale. Amazing. About the broken cardan: You can't call a truck off-road, until you break something on it.
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