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Anto
Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Anto
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Thank you! Indeed, I built this car in one year, the stickers took a lot of time to make, and the instructions took a lot of time too. They have been approved, there was a little problem with the tiles 2x2 trans clear. -
Here is the finished beast! I haven't changed the chassis since the last time (I have just added some parts to reinforce the universal joint at the front that could move before), but I have just adapted the body work to it. From the exterior, nothing has changed, but the conception of the sides is way better with the "new" chassis. I have made stickers to match perfectly to the real car. I have redone manually a great part of the logos (as the "RTR" at the rear, I had to create it manually because there was no picture of it on the internet), and finally, I think the result is good. Then For Art Sticker has printed and cut the stickers. So there are 4 L motors for the driving with a 1:3 ratio with 2 motors by axle, one servo for the steering, and one BuWizz. I'll not be able to make the video this summer, unfortunately I have to wait again. Actually it's possible drifting with this car in a house in Fast mode without any poblem if we are a minimum careful not to bee too sudden, but that is not enough to make a good video, I can't just show the car making donuts in my kitchen. So I have to wait until the correction is available... So I have made pro instructions! Here is a preview: It is available on Rebrickable (it just needs to be approved), it is not free this time: 10€43 (with a little 43 haha!). I had to learn to use LDCad and LPub3D to make it. Sometimes it was quite difficult, but it worked! Thanks to Nico71 who has helped me a lot to use these softwares; without him I would be certainly seeking how to use some functionnalities! When you buy the instructions, you also get the stickers, because it's better with!
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Thanks to everybody, I'm glad you like it! It may be possible to add it. I think it would be nice to have the sounds of the real videogame. But I have no PFx brick... About the bug of the BuWizz, in fact it's possible to drive it to play with it, but not to drive to make a video, in a great space to show how fast this MOC can be, that's why I have to wait.
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I have done this MOC more than a year ago, but as for the Ford Mustang Hoonicorn, I can't make the video until the bug of the BuWizz (with the Fast and Ludicrous modes) is corrected. So I show you the pictures of the MOC for the moment. ^^ I have started to build this creation when I have received 2 RC motors. The purpose was to see what I could make using 2 RC motors and a BuWizz. So this thing is an airplane... until the bug stops the BuWizz. With the 2 RC motors connected to big wheels by the high output, this is very fast. How I had the idea to make this model? I wanted to make a cartoon / videogame style MOC, so I chose the most famous vehicle of Mario Kart videogame. The 2 RC motors are at the rear, the BuWizz is between them. At the front, there is the servomotor which activates the steering with an Ackermann effect, and there is a return to the steering wheel. The body work is easily detacheable. You have just to remove some pins, or simply to detach the blocs from the chassis. Video coming in a moment I think...
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I meant the gearbox of the Porsche or of the Bugatti are closer (or less further) from real gearboxes in their conception. But I agree that anyway it's "not possible to understand correctly how they work" for average people (as you said) since the gearboxes are hidden under panels (unlike the #8860 chassis), so in this way, my gearbox could also work, if the only objective is to show the engine turning at different speeds. What a compact stepper!
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I think it's a problem with the Rebrickable server (the file is hosted directly on Rebrickable), because yesterday someone has downloaded it and it worked. Try this link, this should work: https://www.dropbox.com/s/38oqygqibaxtlli/Sequential 8 Speed gearbox.lxf?dl=0 Yes that's correct! On the modelization, it's the black and orange thing that prevents the selector of the 2 speed gearbox from moving to the second gear to the first by the wrong way (and from the second to the first) so after this, you can't move the selector of the 4 speed gearbox. In the video you can see at 0.18, 0:39 and 0:47 that it works (but as the shifter and the gearbox are not fixed, the gearbox can be tilted a bit so it's possible to move a bit the lever even if it doesn't activate another speed). I also understand LEGO's choise, because their aim is to show how a real car works. So they can't make something like me, as it's not representative of the reality. (But I hope on your car you can't shift from 8 to 1, or it will cost you a lot in replacing the engines! )
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Oops, I meant that for the Chiron, there are 4 driving rings and 2 possible positions by driving ring, so 8 independant positions. But in my gearbox, there are 2 driving rings with 2 possible positions, and 2 driving rings with 1 position, so it's equivalent to 3 working driving rings. (I'll say I wasn't clear at all because it's a hot day. ) If I have a moment, I will try with a classic changeover catch, to see if it's possible to get something more compact.
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Thanks! The LDD file is on Rebrickable! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-26948/Anto/compact-8-speed-sequential-gearbox Indeed on the Chiron, there is the same system to move a knob with a towball pin. I don't know exactly how its gearbox works, but I think it's more like a classis gearbox, with 4 driving rings, whereas here there are only 3.
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I made it almost a year ago, but I didn't have the time to make its presentation. It's a gearbox I made at the release of the rotary changeover catches. My purpose was to make a gearbox as compact as possible. So I decided to couple a 2 speed gearbox to a 4 speed gearbox. There are 2 advantages: firstly the gearing is more compact, and then the shift system is also pretty compact. When the changeover catch of the 4 speed gearbox makes one turn, it activates the one of the 2 speed gearbox. So to change the speeds from the lowest ratio to the highest, the 4 speed gearbox does 1; 2; 3; 4 while the 2 speed gearbox is in first gear; then the 4 speed gearbox activates the second speed of the 2 speed gearbox, and it does 1; 2; 3; 4 again. Little trick: when you make a double gearbox like this, it's important to be sure that the gears are in the right order. This means the 6th gear (2-2) must not to be lower than the 4th gear -1-4) or you cannot control the gearbox properly. So in Excel, I recreated the structure of the gearbox using cases in the calculations (for example F3*G3/F4*G4). Then I put the number of teeth of the gears I may use in the cases, and I got the final ratios of the gearbox. After some tries, I got a good result, and a perfectly controllable gearbox. To control this gearbox, I used the stepper of the Bugatti Chiron that I compacted a little bit (the piece in red). To finish, a modelization of the mechanic to have a clearer view of the gears: Finally, this is an extremly compact gearbox, easily controllable.
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I've done instructions for the forklift! For this, I used Blueprints, to generate instructions from LDD. The instructions are available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-26704/Anto/micro-forklift
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Hi, and sorry but those times I have no time to spend with on LEGO activities so I didn’t see your message. ^^ Firstly, it’s pretty cool to learn to make LEGO builds to kids. Then I think it’s a bit (or way too) late to answer, but I would have told you to use the #8043 and put one motor by function, with a XL for the first part of the arm, a L for the second part of it and another L (or even XL) for the turn table, then M motors for the other functions would have worked. (This should be what you have done) I know the LDD file is tricky because this software doesn’t generate good instructions, but I hope you have enjoyed (trying to) building my MOC!
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Anto replied to Zerobricks's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling7: 10 2: 6 12: 4 17: 3 15: 2 4: 1
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I don't think it's a problem, this is even an advantage for me. Firstly, if you used a LEGO battery (#8878 or #88000) you can replace it by the BuWiz without modification (and you have more remaining space). Then it's possible to use it on studful models easily, and to integrate it to studless models; it's necessary to adapt but it's not impossible at all! So the BuWizz is really polyvalent. Roni has told me that there will be an update of the hardware (I don't know when and how) which will fix the problem. So if you have bought a BuWizz or if you have already got one, it will be possible to fix the bug. Yes, that will be possible!
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Hi! Now the sold BuWizz are only BuWizz 2.0 so you can't choose. The V1 has not more power, but the V2 has a bug in the hardware that will be corrected (I have no date but I know that the BuWizz team is working on it) so is cuts the power too easily to prevent damages during an excessive use, this security is not correctly setted. When all will be fine, the 2.0 will have much workable power than the V1 thanks to its Ludicrous mode. Actually if you power 2 RC motors, the BuWizz will disconnect if you accelerate too fast, so this configuration is usable if you are careful (for the moment). Also, BuWizz has created the "Affiliate Program" to award people who has helped them by making videos for advertisement. These people has got a link that they have to share, and they earn a part of the purchases every time someone buys a BuWizz using the Affiliate Link of the person. And I participate to this program! So if you want a BuWizz and you want to support me in the same time, use the link in my signature!
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Thanks! I could built it in white, orange or black, but I chose white because it's a little bit less sad than black ^^ On TechLUG, someone asked me to have more details of the front part. So I have done screenshots on the LDD file:
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Finished! So I have tried to reproduce the bodywork as close as the real one as I could, and that wasn't so esay. (The most difficult part was the front) For the doors, I used some studful parts, to get the curvy surfaces of the doors. Here, you can see the suspension, in positions up then down: The doors, the hood and the trunk can be opened. However, their motion isn't limited. I have even reached to put the spare wheel under the hood, and I don't tell you how much difficult that was to do. The pneumatic pump is hidden into the trunk; and the pneumatic switch is placed just in front of the glove box. The interior is quite simple, but it is filled by the seats. And this is the chassis, it has a little bit evolved since the last time that I have posted pictures on the thread. That's all, I really enjoyed building a vehicle at a small scale. And I hope you like this MOC!
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I have already made drift cars, and the best tires are these ones: If you have never seen my gymkhanas, look at them and see what's possible: With these tires, you must make small MOCs, so you can have a lot of power for a little weight, so that helps to have a nervous vehicle. And the shape of the tires helps, you have enough grip to control the car, but they slip if the power is sufficient. With these tires, you don't need to use tape or anything else on the tires; make a good chassis and drift! (But that needs a lot of development, around 6 months of work and lots and lots of modifications for the last one! ^^)
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While waiting to make the video of a new MOC, I'm working again on this project! (finally) So I have restarted this project at a smaller scale. When I have seen Nico71's new Citroën 2CV, I have thought that this scale could be good for my project. And I have never worked on a car at this scale, so I wanted to try this. The functions are almost the same as for the first version: Steering with the headlights turning with the wheels Adjustable pneumatic suspensions Openable hood, trunk and doors At this scale, obviously I can't keep the gearbox and the working fake engine. Actually, you can see a really nice color vomit. I thought it would be possible to make the bodywork in dark azure, but the flex don't exist in this color. So it will be orange or white (I just need to change the panels on bottom of the front doors). As the scale is really small, I couldn't make a suspension system with shock absorbers + a system to adjust the height of the chassis. So I use mini pneumatic cylinders and they work as shock absorbers (this way it's closer to the system of the real car). And there, you can see the rack used to move the wheels and the headlights: To be continued...
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@nerdsforprez : I can't check on the same step because the instructions have been generated differently for me; but I think that you speak about the bracket moving the pneumatic switch in the cab, It's to choose the output of the air (by moving the pneumatic switch) to move the clamp (or another tool).
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I'm glad you like my MOC! It looks nice in blue. I know, but I do LDD files and not real instructions because that take more time, and I prefer spending my time on creating new MOCs. I'm not sure to understand about which part you are speaking. ^^
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I had the same issue after crashs, but that was not a problem at all when I drove it (even forward/backward) When I have some free time, I see if I can upgrade the axle to prevent it from disconnecting from the rest of the chassis. @Permo : haha
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The LDD file is finally available on Rebrickable! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-15185/Anto/full-rc-excavator-powered-by-buwizz
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Thanks! I finish the LDD file when I have time for that, and then I tell you when the file is available.
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