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Anto
Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Anto
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The vote is closed and... Do someone think the real 10 best entries are qualified? I don't think. There are problematic "strange" things with the votes: The first has more votes than views on his video. Do do you think the people who have voted have watched all the videos to vote for their favourite entry? In the night of thursday, some entries have got between 70 and 100 votes (It's my case). Personally, I have got 100 votes after 1 week, and in a night I doubled my number of votes. Strange thing, no? It's possible to vote many times. The votes use the IP address of the internet connexion. So if you can change it, you can vote many times. (I don't tried and it's certainly for this reason that I'm not qualified, but I know you can do a robot which votes many times by changing the IP address) Yesterday, after midnight, it was possible to vote anymore. And after midnight the top 10 has changed. In fact, for me, the vote has shown the top 10 of the people who have more friends than the others. Not the top 10 of the videos and MOCs done for the contest.
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Thanks! Now it's time to vote. So if you want to support my entry, you know what you have to do... https://buwizz.com/buwizz-fast-car-competition/
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Thank you! You're right. The U-joint is placed 1 stud behind the pivot point of the linear actuator. So in some positions, as the U-joint is not homocinetic, that causes vibrations when the bucket is not loaded. But I didn't find another way to do this part of the arm. I agree. There is no bucket for the excavators of this scale...
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One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC!
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I didn't think you'll like this MOC so much. Thanks for the comments ! I have not those sets, so no picture sorry! Yes and no. ^^ The rear 12t gear on the roof allows turning the wheel. But you can also move the rear of the forklift and it will turn because the wheel is not aligned with the vertical axle of the 12t gear - as on a floor jack. Yes I know, but I think at this scale it's not too inconvenient. That gives it an old truck look. I put the MOC on LEGO Ideas, so you can support it if you like it! --> https://ideas.lego.com/projects/cbc26691-7871-43ce-adcf-5dab095401a1 And thanks again for your comments!
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Here is a little crew! These two models are very compact, so very simple technically. I wanted to do the same type of model as the little LEGO sets. The forklift: The arm can be moved using a worm gear/8t system. The towballs are here to limit the movement of the system. The fork moves when you turn the 12t gear. There is a pin with friction to keep it in position. The truck is even simpler. It has a steering and the dropsides are openable. The LDD file is available on Rebrickable. And here is the video!
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Thanks all for the comments! Yes, I know... The problem is that I needed a gear ratio I can't get with less gears (except the three 8t): 20t/12t is too slow, and 24t/8t or 36t/8t is too high. So I done that, and with the position of the motors (to have something compact) I couldn't do better. It's not to protect the U-joint, it can bear more torque. In fact, the servomotor was not damaged because of this buggy, but because of my RC karting. I though I could remove the dirt from the tires, but it's not so easy, and that is amplified on the pictures. I keep in mind your advice for the next time! I have done a LDD file, you can download it on Rebrickable! --> https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-14071/Anto/fast-rc-buggy-powered-by-buwizz/
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For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
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Some news about the MOC! Building instructions have been done by @Thorsten50, and they are available on Rebrickable. So thanks to him! The MOC is also available on MOCHUB!
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I had not my white background and the orange one is in fact a wall. ^^ And that looks quite nice with the colors of the MOC and the mug as you say, so I did a picture.
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Yes of course! Look at that nice mug! It is too cute to use it to drink a cofee.
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Wow, I didn't think I could be on the podium with my MOC! Congrats to all the other participants for their entries! And thanks to @Jim and @Milan for organizing contests, even when I don’t participate I like seing what the members do with a same subject.
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I have done the LDD file of the new chassis! --> https://www.dropbox.com/s/az49qn6q8qztj ... s.lxf?dl=0 I uploaded the parts on Bricklink, and this chassis costs around 120€ without delivery.
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That's done, I have added 1 other L motor! Now, the chassis is extremely powerful, the wheels always slip! So I removed the freewheel, but the weight balance is better, so the understeering is not a problem. This version is easier to drive. Because of the gain of power, the front wheels are replaced correctly easily, so to drift, you need to steer the front wheels a little bit more. If the wheels are not steered, the car goes straight. There is only one invonvenient: I can't drive it anymore on hardwood floor in Ludicrous mode, because the wheels slip too much. Eh, no! In fact it's an advantage, this chassis will do better drifts on a more rough floor! Here is the LDD file of the V1 of the chassis, with 3 L motors and the feewheel: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1xf10qgz2i5nzz5/Ford Mustang Hoonicorn RTR - Ken Block UPDATE.lxf?dl=0 I do the new version when I have the freetime.
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Actually, I’m using the BuWizz app with one control for the steering and one other for the driving. I’m trying to control the BuWizz with the BrickController app to have a better precision but I have a manipulation to do with my phone, so I have not tested yet. And I have thought to control the front and rear motors independently, so I’ll see if/how it’s possible, or if it’s possible to give a lower alimentation to the front (for example 100% for the rear and 80% for the front) I don’t have a LEGO lipo BB, but I think the BuWizz has the same weight. In Normal mode, I can drift a little bit with this chassis but only on hardwood floor, so I don’t guarantee that will work with a LEGO battery box and a SBrick, but if you have the parts, that will cost you nothing.
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I'm glad you like the car ! The clutch in details: It's not exactly the same I used in the chassis, this version is 1 stud less high, but a little bit less stronger. It's a design from Lego Technic Mastery that I have reinforced. @HorcikDesigns I have no problem with the U joints, however, when the front wheels are totally steered, their rotation is not perfectly smooth. But it's nor a problem at all. @Leonardo da Bricki It's almost done! I have added 1 L motor for the front wheels, and I have removed the freewheel, and the understeering is not a big problem. And now the power is just amazing! Even when the car is at its max speed, the wheels slip. ^^ (In Ludicrous mode) @letsbuild Yes, of course! There will be building instructions when the car will be finished at 100%. :)
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Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
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2. Top Fuel Tractor This MOC is a mix between a tractor, a dragster and a cartoon! It does wheelies as a real powerful dragster, so the anti-roll bar has a real utility. That is its unique real function, but this MOC is very fun! (You can also ajust the spoiler and the bucket) Look at the video! Discussion topic
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Little video!
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Up! I almost didn't work at all on the project since my last post, because I was very busy with another MOC. Here is the actual progression: The central joint is no enough stiff, so I'll need to reinforce it. I started the structure of the cab, with its opening. It's really difficult to do. Because to do the design, I need the structure of the cab. For the structure, I must know how the flex, cables, future switchs, pass into the chassis (or cab). And for that, I need the interior, which needs the structure of the cab. Actually, there are some flex and cables. Normally, I need 2 or 3 times more flex, cables and switchs than that it is in the MOC. I placed a pneumatic cylinder for the opening of the cab. The rear part was not too much complex to do.
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Thanks! I think it's not a problem. Pimp my tractor!
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Hi! That is my entry for the new contest: a tractor mixed with a dragster with a cartoon style! I amplified the shapes of a real tractor: I put huge rear wheels compared to the frond ones, there are 2 big headlights on the front of the hood... The only fonction of this MOC is that it is powered by a pull back motor. (Also, you can move the spoiler because it is fixed with a pin with friction, but that doesn't upgrade the playability) The anti-roll bar has a real utility. Without, the tractor finishes on its roof. The shock absorber is really useful: without, at the acceleration, the drive wheels "jump", they are not in contact with the floor anymore, so the motor is not used at 100%. So actually, the tractor does wheelies smoothly. That's all!
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After Thorsten, Jörg Schwarzlaender has done building instructions! So thanks to him! (And thanks again to Thorsten! ^^) He has added numbers to find easily the stickers (but he didn't change the appearance of them), as on the Lego instructions. The instructions The stickers
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I have worked a little on the Muli. I have made the structure of the cab. That wasn't easy because of the fact that it is openable, and the pneumatic cylinder has been very hard to place correctly. And I started the front of the cab: To open it, I have placed a second pneumatic pump. With a mechanism, the cab will open itself when you'll push the lever, and also whel you'll pull it, as on the real one.
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