Teddy

That is an amazing rendition of the original building. Very well done indeed.

This is a really nice adaptation of Ben Beneke his design. I like the XL wheels under this machine. I am wondering how well the driving rods function, as they seem to hit each other at every rotation. Does this add to friction or noise? All in all a very nice adaptation of Ben his design with the BBB XL wheels. Kind regards, Teddy

Hi LEGO Trains 12 Volts, thank you for your compliments.Thorsten Benter wrote a really nice article here on EB on attaching O-rings to BBB wheels in which you already responded, but I am stil putting up a link here : Link to Tutorial Thorsten told me that BBB is contemplating making wheels with O-rings. Until than, Thorsten his method is more than good enough. That is a very beautifully designed BR23 and reminds me of Ben Beneke his design. But, I can see you made some changed and additions to Ben Beneke his core design. Kind regards, Teddy

Hi Admiral Croissant! Thanks for your reply. My life motto is: "keep it simple stupid!" So, I try to make everything as simple as possible, but not simpler. The same philosophy is applied in my Lego hobby builds as well. Some earlier iterations of this MOC were way more complex builds than the final version. I initially build several test versions of several parts of the locomotive, which I finally attached for the first complete version of the locomotive. It is still possible to dis-attach the wheel section from the rest of the body without much trouble. Under the hood there still is quite some SNOT going on, and some parts are slightly more complex builds than they may appear on the outside. Especially, to squeeze in all the PF equipment (2 M-motors, extension cords, and PF light cords) in a very tight space in the sleek 5.6 x 5.6 studs boiler, which has an internal space of only 4x4 studs, and make it sturdy enough so the motors wont tear it apart. To achieve this, I tried to keep the build as simple and sturdy as possible. Getting the train to take the Lego track switches was a real pain and required quite some work as well to get right. Kind regards, Teddy

Hi Patje! Scrolled right through all your photo sets, and I love your layouts! One can really see the progress both in size and quality over the years. And my girlfriend really loves your grey cat. "Ah, so cute! " Is what she said. Kind regards, Teddy

Thanks TheBrickster! That made me really happy, I'm really honored. Thanks Captain Becker, glad you like it!

Hi Toastie! If you are prepared to help me out with the digital design, I am saying yes please. And if you are even prepared to build instructions, I am absolutely grateful. Hi moc2, yes getting the locomotive to take switches and all the possible S-curves was a real challenge. Hi petrab, it helps me to discuss a WIP via gmail or msn with another fan. Just to bounce some ideas. Kind regards, Teddy Edit: Today we had my girlfriend her family over for the new year celebrations. My girlfriend het grandmother is a big fan of my Lego so she wanted to make a movie. The color is slightly dark and the tiger print slippers are from Petra her Grandmother. At least now you can see it snake through a Lego track switch. Kind regards, Teddy

Kost U Grlu : 3 points Dix : 2 Points

Dear TheBrickster, When I was a kid I owned the 7722 Steam Cargo train set: My love for Lego trains restarted again in 2006 and 2007 with set 10173 Holiday train and the 10183 hobby train set. I currently own one 7722 Steam Cargo train set, one 10173 Holliday train set, two 10183 hobby train sets, two 10194 Emerald Night sets, and one 7939 Cargo train. Further, I currently own the 7997 train station, the 7937 train station, one 7936 train level crossing, and several rail switches and track piece sets. Last year I build my Terminus of the line railway MOC: And last year I build my mini scale train locomotive MOC: And this year I build a 1:45 minifigure scale BR01-1075 with PF motors: Kind regards, Teddy

Dear L-space, this is starting to look really good. There is some really nifty architecture in there! If I may give you some advice on a simple improvement. The mottling you've done with sand-green, tan, and dark (bl/g)rey is a good idea, but it seams a tat too regular now. As if it is a reoccurring pattern purposely put there. This is because you group all colors together every time you try to break up the regularity of the large grey wall. It would look better if you would scatter the sand-green, tan, and dark (bl/g)rey more randomly over the wall. Sometimes they group, sometimes they are alone. In my eyes, the grouping/pattern effect is especially apparent in the foto below. I hope this helps you with your great WIP. Kind regards, Teddy

Thanks Cinderbike! Glad you like it! Hi Petrab, I am glad you like my MOC. Currently, I got several requests for instructions already and am contemplating making them. But, I am a complete newby at LDraw and currently I have to finish my PhD and find a new job. So it will probably be another three months or so before I have sufficient spare time to start such a new task. Personally, I like a great many number of themes and like to build different things in Lego the best I can. When I start a new project I scavenge the internet for photos of real life buildings or vehicles (whatever the project is) and put those in one folder. Than I flip through that folder repeatedly to build an image in my mind of what and how I want to build it. For new building techniques and ideas I look at various Lego builds both official and MOCs, both related and non related to my project, and try to learn as much as possible from all the other Lego builders. After this tedious exercise, I start to build a first basic version of my current project MOC. Than I start an iteration process in which I try to mold the MOC further. Some MOCs take up to 20 iterations. So my goal is not to outdo other builders, but to learn from them and use that in my own builds. That way, I do not need to redo the same learning curve as they did. If my MOCs look good it is also a testament to all the great other builders from whom I learned by studying their Lego creations. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear all, thanks for all the nice replies on my MOC! I added a comparison shot between my MOC and the real BR01 1075 enigine to the first post: Hi Captain Green Hair! Thanks for your reply. As you can see I changed the casing of the boogies under the tender since the last photos I showed you. Hi Thorsten, thanks for your kind reply and thank you very much for helping me out with the O-rings on the BBB-XL wheels. I will try to make a movie of the train running, although I do not own a descent camera I will do my best. Kind regards, Teddy

Hi all, thank you very much for all the nice replies! It took me quite some time and iterations to get the train to its current form. So, I am really happy you all like it. Kind regards, Teddy

Update 10 October 2011: Dear all, last week I had some time to tweak my engine design. I added an engine under the tender and updated the gearing in the boiler such that the big wheels and the small wheels cover the same distance per hour. The result is smoother operation and increased speed: The additional PF train motor which works in tandem with the two M-motors in the boiler located under the tender: Original post: Dear all, for the past month I have been building on and off on this MOC. After being inspired by all the great Lego train builders such as SavatheAggie and Ben Beneke, I wanted to try my hand at building a train as well. This type train is also owned by the dutch steam association SSN and is a BR01-1075 and can be seen running around trainstations in the Netherlands and Germany. Thorsten Benter helped me in attaching rubber rings to the XL-BBB wheels for extra grip. The train is driven by two M-motors in the boiler and the battery pack is inside the tender. The scale is 1:45. The slopes of the boiler containing the two M motors are stacked on a 4x4 stud core, making for a leaner boiler. The full resolution pics of the slide show can be found in my Flickr account: Link to flickr set Mocpages:Link to Mocpages set Brickshelf: Link to Brickshelf set Kind regards, Teddy BR01-1075: Compared to the real deal: Slide Show:

Five years ago, I told my girlfriend I wanted to buy a certain Lego set I could not afford as a kid. Surprisingly, she than encouraged me to buy it, and that is how I got out of my dark ages. I saw it on ebay and put in an offer and won the bidding for a relatively low price. After that event it kind of started to snowball out of control for a while, with me buying anything Lego I could afford or get my hands on. She likes the fact I am at home when I hobby with Lego, and she thinks about projects I can make. She even likes me to showcase my MOCs in our living room for family and friends to look at. She encouraged me to start my HMS Victory project and even organized a holiday to Portsmouth to see the real deal. I started my castle because she is into fantasy books, and my library MOC because of her book hobby as well. So I try to involve her into the hobby and she encourages me a lot. So although she is not an AFOL she is very enthusiastic and supportive. With my previous hobby as a coach and active sporter, I was away from home a lot for competition, training, race weekends, and training camps. So, she likes the fact that with Lego building I am close by. Kind regards, Teddy

Congratulations on winning from some stiff competition! That sure is a big cool price pack, and super cool addition to your collection. Kind regards, Teddy

Hi Rick, thank you for your reply. I agree with you Rick that digital more common. Hi TheBrickster, your organizing of the forum is highly appreciated by me. I completely agree with you on the usefulness of acronyms in the titles of topics. Hopefully we can get a clear acronym that helps organizing. Hi Toastie, thank you for your comment. Personally, I like your proposal better. As it now reads more natural and simple as: MOCD: MOC Digital MODD: MOD Digital Thanks! Kind regards, Teddy

For me personally the abbreviation MOD in a LEGO context means modification. The other definition does not come natural to me as a digital creation can also be a MOC (own design) or a MOD (modification). So I if you want to make a difference, I would sugges: My Own Digital Creation, MODC. And digital modification MODD. kind regards, Teddy

Great build! I really like the fact you build the complete hull. The hull is nicely rendered in bricks, the brick flow of the hull looks smooth on the photos. Thanks for sharing! Kind regards, Teddy

Wow! those are some really cool videos. Let me help a bit by redirecting your youtube clips. Unfortunately, I do not know how to do the same with the clip on Flickr.

Hi Toastie, thanks for putting this up! It was an extremely helpful tutorial, when I was making the grooves in my BBB-XL wheels. With the O-rings on, it works like a charm. Kind regards, Teddy

Hi Hendrik That is quite some heavy collecting! I started collecting all Star Wars sets since 2005 (returned from my dark ages), but decided to stop abruptly with this years releases. I just felt they were too close to previous sets and are just modified copies of previous sets. A prime example for me is the Slave I, which in my opinion is too much like the previous release. Furthermore, I do not really relate to the Clone Wars sets, so I no longer see the use in collecting them. Since you have been collecting for a while longer, have you had similar sentiments over the years? Kind regards, Teddy

Dear all, please read my previous post carefully. I am not saying it cannot be done, or it will not work. But, I feel the obligation to warn for short term and long term damage to your PF equipment when operating beyond specified limits. Especially, when you have no idea about the schematics, IC technology, etc. People who are replicating Rien his MOD may experience the short term damage I am talking about, i.e. the PF equipment is damaged immediately. This can be because their badge of PF is of lower quality. Remember that different manufactured batches have different quality levels, always. Specifications have headroom to cover for manufacturing differences. When the tolerances of your batch are lower, you can potentially ruin your PF equipment immediately. And, I am saying that even when it works, like in Rien his case, the average life expectancy of your Lego PF equipment can be substantially reduced. It can be reduced from for example 20 years to 1 year. So it will appear to function alright at first. The difference will only be noticeable over time, when motors and PF receivers simple start to break down. I personally feel it is my responsibility to point this risk out. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear Rien et all, Let me just give my two cents in this discussion. In my opinion, there are two separate discussions: 1. The effect on an IC working on a higher voltage than stated in specifications. 2. The effect on a motor working on a higher voltage than stated in specifications. Let me just give my two cents based on my knowledge and experience. 1. Putting an IC at a higher DC voltage can cause short and long term damage. a. Short term: - Go too high and you can blow away the doping of the transistors, basically altering their functionality and ruining the IC. b. Long term: - There might be electron migration in the transistors severely shorting the lifetime of the IC. c. Depending on IC technology, transistor sizes, and the schematic you might be able to go a little higher than specified without noticeable effects, but you should have knowledge of the technology and schematics of the IC to be sure. Or, you could just do trial and error, of course. ;) 2. Putting an engine on a higher voltage: The main problem here is a. max current under stalling and b. heat transfer a. stalling: - When the engine stalls it basically acts as a kind of short circuit. - The cables and wires in the engine are only designed to handle a certain amount of current. - When you exceed this limit they will just melt away like a fuse plug in your home. b. heat: - Another problem can be heat transfer. When used at a higher voltage an electric motor heats up more over time. - If the engine is not able to transfer this heat parts might melt, and damage the motor. When operating equipment beyond the stated tolerances, you have to understand that not every PF motor and receiver has the same response. The tolerances are stated to account for process and production variances and have a safety margin. But when operating beyond the tolerances the ability of the PF equipment to deal with that is basically random. So one PF-motor may be fine, while another simply melts down. Or one PF receiver will operate normally while another short circuits. Hope this helps. Kind regards, Teddy

Hi Brick Miner, thank you for your reply! I really think your buildings are excellent. Although I generally build in a larger scale I think what you are doing is absolutely fascinating and of pure quality. Kind regards, Teddy