SNIPE

I said half plate not half brick, and the other studless slopes work just fine, as shown in the above image I just added (but I dont know if they line up with tiles with the diagonal cutout so I would have to I guess make the sidewalks use slopes on their side as well :) but raise them by a brick or half a brick which is more challenging but oh well. LEGO is all about having a system where parts can connect with other parts, and this is hardly a weird thing im trying to do. OK maybe I am mistaken (I got impatient) in that its a half brick offset but the fact that there is still a lip there doesnt change anything, when using half plate offsets can make smooth diagonals with no "shingling" infact LEGO could even have slopes with no lip and still ditch the rounded corners, as this 6x1 slope has no counded corners unlike a cheese slope. of the new studless 2x1 slope

This is wrong in 2 ways because stupid LEGO didn't bother testing the part properly: Had they properly tested this part as well as the 2x1 and 4x1 versions of these studless slopes they would have noticed that you can"t use half plate offsets like you can with other studless slopes to have the diagonal bit flush and not "shingled" (now I've wasted money on a part that I can no longer use to make diagonal roads) But also theres a hideous gap between the brack and snot brick. WHY CAN'T THEY JUST MAKE A 1X1 SLOPE WITH A FULL PLATE LIP ON THE BOTTOM IN 2 OR 3 DIFFERENT ANGLES so that they are the same angles as wedge plates, you can therefore have SNOT SLOPES and clamp them in with non SNOT wedge plates for the sidewalks and not have to deal with half plate trickery and even then they are not at the same angle as any wedge plate.

I have LDCAD with a custom rotation (0.5 LDU) however it is a major pain in the megablocks, im not sure if MLCAD would be much better. LDCAD is buggy when you try to force it to rotate at like 0.01 increments as it starts to rotate the part in axis which you didnt tell it to be rotated in I'm so done with this , this is REDICULOUS.

Hi, I am trying to align some tiles with some slopes in bricklink studio, however even though I have the smallest grid stepping selected, when I move the part, it either collides with the other part or it has a gap between the two parts. I have tried turning on/off collision and snapping but no luck This will also mean I need to finley rotate the parts as they are very slightly not at the same angle, and therefore when I make the road longer the gap will also become longer. Hope someone can help soon, thx!

LEGO should stop mucking about and make all pins have BAR HOLES So, make new parts with unique part IDs for: 15461 , 87082 , 2393 , 55615 , 15100 , 6558 and 32054 Also despite newelementry and lego.com saying pick-a-brickhas normal service everywhere except for canada/USA my pick a brick order is very delayed, anyone else having this problem?

Nice idea, I wanted to do this with the icons pac-man arcade, so that its more realistic in that you can play it like you do on a real arcade machine, I wanted to add a motor and be able to move pacman and so on and so forth and without making the model much larger than the original lego icons set.

I was going to suggest using this part as an exaust but i later realized that it only comes in trans clear and is a rare-ish/old part Maybe there's something else that can be used. Also, for some crazy unknown reason, the flappy paddle shifter was not shifting but I tested the gearbox before building any further and it shifted fine then, so now I had to take the engine, gearbox, paddle shifter, and a bunch of small structural assemblies out of the chassis :( and I still don't know where I went wrong... nor am I particularly enthusiastic about having to reassemble it all and then continuing with the front axle and dashboard...

the motor is definitely control+ and so is the battery box I would say, it's just not the c+ Bluetooth hub.

of course it is

@Ngoc Nguyen will you be doing 42145?

2 new parts in set 60445 Formula 1 Truck with RB20 & AMR24 F1 Cars

I think I built it correctly yes also I forgot to mention, nice work @astyanax especially using that wall hanger frame on page 424, I have 8 of these and seldom use them so someone finally put them in a model

Progress: LEGO are late (as usual) with the bestseller parts order from pick-a-brick...

cool, ill build this because I dont have the real set but have lots of red panels Unfortuntley everything except for the P1 rims were on pick a brick. Here is what rebrickable says I'm missing: However I know for a fact that I have all of these parts too (idk why rebrickable does this) except for maybe the white pins with diagonal clip and the rims, so for now i'll use the daytona rims.

Oh so the conrods are not new but adapted using a '1x1 round plate with hollow stud' and a 'bar with ball joint', fair enough. I think 72008 is new in DBG or are those just thin 1x2 beams in the rear swing arm?

The engine idea sucked so ive put that on hold as ive wasted too much time on it and need to build the gearbox however, it seems the 2025 ducatti has conrods that interface the new crank-cams with the older cylinders, abd the 2025 f1 cars have new engine block pieces. Heres the build so far: As previously mentioned , the shocks and wishbones are in the mail as well as black 2pin connector blocks and other parts. I think the axle may need to be lowered by 1L because the wishbones are not as angled down now. Its a hard balance between: having suspension travel but not having the wheels rub against the arches but also not having too much ride height but also having as little travel in the linear actuators as possible to maximize space but also because its better if they bottom out instead of having to add limiters to the rockers (which I did but that was just a consequence of having to mount the bushes this way, but make the wishbones not rub against the springs , so the shocks must be as close to the vertical beam structure as possible. but make the actuators not pivot much because the gear rack would then be limited more in how far it can slide but also if the actuators dont pivot there's more space for other stuff to go. and a load of other stuff...like if the wishbones were angled down too much the steering would be stiff and hardly have much range of motion So, it was a challange but I think I got it working :)

rear axle , spoiler, exhaust done, to make my rear axle modular (for now) I had to make the end plate also be modular, but also redesign the exaust , but now it all works fine and my axle can be removed easily I made a v8 that uses the new engine pieces but with the old cylinders. I just need to find something that can cover the block since the cylinders extend past the block. ill add images shortly.

thx

aand we're off topic...

here the 4 inner pinholes and square hole would rotate independantly to the 3 pinholes on the beam but the problem now is how will they be thru pinholes when the otherside also has pinholes, but it rotates independantly. we cant have capped pinholes because the pins would need to go right the way to the end , if it was a capped pinhole the pin woud not go all the way in, if it was capped but the wall was moved out, then the part is slightly larger than 1L and so is useless. the square hole on the other side is a large round hole, so that beams that go thru it do not lock both half together in rotation. also ignore the chamfer, it wouldnt be like that on the real part. lego should have made: linear saftey clutches small turntables, rotation joints wheel hubs and anything else all use a standard connection that has no backlash! so you can swap stuff out . As for the 3d print design, I don't have a 3d printer but thx anyway, it would also require buying and super gluing in a ball bearing ring and 3d printed plastic is usually very weak. I guess one fix would be to just have 2 pins on both sides but now some parts won't fit right beside it anyway, another 2 useful parts:

This but where theres only 1 3L beam and you can't separate the halves, it would have a steel bearing ring around the inner outside which is thin though to still allow the part to have a central square hole but only on one side, the other side is round, unlike the 28 tooth turntable, which gets locked rotationally if you slide a beam thru the middle. Around the square hole will be 4 pinholes also. These may sound useless but are far from it. Maybe the bearing would just be part of the 2 halves, i.e the whole part is metal if the rollers in the bearing can't fit next to where the outer pinholes go then just put them in-between the pinholes , that way they can be bigger

Oh actually, I just figured out why my 1L bar with end stud would never be made by The Lego Group. because if you put it in the tube of a 2x2 or larger brick youll never got it out again

Belive it or not but they don't need much reduction unlike a ride height adjuter that uses worm gears spur gears, knob wheels and more spur gears Now I;m working on different rocker arms that don't squeeze the axle for the top of the shocks against the beams but also so that they keep the actuators angled towards the shocks as much as possible an not the diff, to save space for the M motor, same goes for how much the actuators extend, as little as possible is better.#

Cracked it, turns out 2 small linear actuators are strong enough after all!. Months of work has paid off AND the suspension still works at any rotation of the rocker arm (some technic designs have no suspension when the ride height is at the lowest). I'M BUZZING. Now to make 3 more and put them in the chassis, then onto the smaller gearbox (if my parts order arrives in time) BTW my supercar will use these, so if you don't want AWD and AWS in the P1 just remove the diff and gear rack then lock the wheels so that they don't steer. The linear actuators stil have space behind them to fit an M motor for some sort of function, the two sides will need to be braced together accross where the differential is. The ride height adjustment motor would be into the end of the actuator maybe with a 12:20 gear pair to increase the torque. It will also be using buwizz 3.0 ludicrous mode which may help the motors not stall, either M or L per front side, but on the same port, then same for rear side but on the next port: BUWIZZ 3.0 #1{ port A - front left ride height adjustment motor 1 , front right ride height adjustment motor 2 port B - rear left ride height adjustment motor 3 - rear right ride height adjustment motor 4 port C - front steering motor port D - front steering motor port E - undecided port F - undecided } BUWIZZ 3.0 #2 { port G - door left port H - door right port I - spoiler port J - gear shifting port K - drive motor (CADA buggy motor) port L - drive motor (CADA buggy motor) }

thx