SNIPE

Nice work. I only so far after building the real set added LBG 1x1 round tiles to the engine pistons but I have a seperate replica chassis for my MODs. by replica I mean because I built it from.watching a speed build before the set came out officially, so no new parts are in it.

I'm sure this was used in The Lego Movie and is also available in the lego unity minigame/psrts library, it just isn't in any set(s)

5.5L axle instead of 4L axle with stop TLG needs to stop being so incompetent. EDIT: oops, the 5.5L axle should have been where the HOG dial goes but I thought that required 4L with stop. My bad, all sorted, if I could put the digital instructions on my computer monitor it would be bigger and I could even zoom in, but only.book 2 is on the LEGO website currently.

I just noticed that the 16L axle has a new mould, luckily this cutout does not effect the frictoon of half of full beams at that point:

Ok, I tested it myself once I got the new engine parts and, yes it technically fits but it does not snap in and has only a little friction: Does anyone know if this is a genuine lego Pin, according to bricklink there are 2 or 3 types of 1L friction pins, only 1 of which has a hole that is too small for a bar, however the slats are all on one side unlike mine, where they are are at 90 degrees to the centre slats:

2x2 dishes are a hair smaller than 2x2 round plates and come in trans clear bead002 is available in trans clear Probably a few more possible parts too, I use LDRAW parts bin to browse thru all ldraw parts quickly

I assumed he meant that it had to be 0.5L in depth and had a tyre, a barhole is not ideal but may suffice for his use case I'll take a look shortly

That bit I just copied from a youtube speedbuild, its easier to modify an existing assemly than try to imagine one from scratch I find. Removing the 8 tooth gears would mean using a 28 tooth gear just to drive the differential and this would get in the way of the steering rack. I don't intend to do extreme off-roading anyhow and I have a load of 8 tooth gears, its more about challenging what is possible to squeeze into a certain sized model than having a super strong and reliable model, however I do avoid very weak connections (unless they are just for prototyping) I don't know why people make their lego muddy and scuffed by taking it outdoors but to each their own.. Oh also remember that a lot of what we see here was designed by LegoScript to be as space and parts count efficiant as possible, so I doubt I can do a better job really than it because its a damn good tool

Yes.

v4 chassis WIP: I added rear wheel steering (a litte bit of turning radius) hi/lo gearbox, DNR selector, centre diff lock, HOG steeting+steeing wheel also added As previostly mentioned I have a modified 42110 front axle with: Diff lock motor Winch motor Front bumper Bullbars Bonnet lock mechanism Steering motor Adjustable ride height mechanism But I can't use that as-is since it needs modifying to work with this model, however it is close enough.

Thx

@kbalage How about Unimog tyres? I get this set on aug 1 so I can try anyhow, just curious, as they don't seem to be that much bigger than the new stock 42177 tyres.

The only advantage of the macaroni connectors is that they allow an 8 tooth gear to be placed on the outer corner without it jamming the teeth, where as a #6 connector will jam the teeth, so therefore I don't think we will see macaroni #3 #4 #5 #7 connectors soon

My modified version of this set has a locking front diff, you'll find more info in the 42177 MODs thread

Yet this set has a bright orange 1x1 beam and its listed seperatley in the parts inventory EDIT oh wait thats gold, what the hell is wrong with The lego Group sometimes?! this looks orange not gold

Interesting how set 42173 has 2 other parts in reddish orange that don't exist in set 42177, and those are: Axle 2L with Bush Connector with Pinhole & 1L axle This will be good for if we want to improve the bodywork. Here are some more parts in Reddish Orange too. Anyone know of any other new sets that have new recolors in reddish orange?

I managed to download the video How can I share it without getting into trouble

Great work, can't wait to use this in my ultimate 42177 MOD, but I will make it be 4 speed+DNR+HI/LO with the diff lock being a fully independent function

I have the fins in black, they are around the same angle as the new #7 connector amd can be made into a ring. The rear diff lock has a white 3L axle joiner, so I belive it can snap in place using a 3L clutch ring

Here is the v3 chassis still not sure about how far away the rear axle should be from the 19L girders, because on the original set, the rear axle is on a diagonal so I estimated. Missing 4 bellville microphones in black , these connect to the yellow connectors. Of course the frames can pivot because they're not properly connected. The pins and green bars are just to keep the cross blocks holding the wishbones central and 5L apart, but signify that theres 1L space available under them.

How would you have space to deboss the number into the plastic, also the dot would be hard to see.

So the rear diff lock is not connected to the third cabin lever right?

Correct. I used a Daytona differential and couldn't fit the steering arms in, they would just hit off the diff if they were moved from outside of the wheel, or if they were inside the wheels, they would rub against the rims (they must be parralel in all 3 axis to the wishbones). this is why the v2 ldr file has the steering arms not connected. I didn't want to move the steering rack even further away from the diff either because its bad for handling and wastes space. if I did, it would have sat on top of the 2 eight tooth gears that I used to centre the drive shaft but that's not a problem. Doing a load of hoop jumping to raise the axle + drive shaft so that you can put the diff+a gear on either side of it to centre the drive shaft (and now the 7x11 frame doesn't block the drive shaft hole) just causes 3 more problems: 1. Gears can slip 2. Massively overcomplicates the design and wastes space 3. Steering rack is now too high to work with the wheels+wheel hubs So I prefer the direct attachment of the clutch ring to the diff. Putting the steering rack on the same side as the diff lock mechanism was certainly not a bad idea in theory but the trouble is: 1. The steering gear+axle is missing and its connetors to hold it are missing (not a huge deal) 2. I need to get the small spike prime angular motor in for the diff lock and it integrates better if its not on the same side as the steering rack. 3. the gray 28 tooth gear is a space hog Luckily I have 2 working axles with steering, suspension, diff, diff lock and motor already for my 42110 mod so I just need to buy some more specialized parts in order to duplicate those. This is why we need a chatroom, to more easily share digital models and images, and also chat more in real time lol, here would be for major updates to my mod project and for other people's mods

just train wheels, which use a bar hole anyhow

I hope the 2025 1h sets are better than this year, remember the mack anthem? or the heavy lift helicopter?, those were proper 1h sets Ok, the purgeot race car had a high enough parts count but needed 1 or 2 more functions tbh, we got enough cars with the same basic functions already like the rally car, porshe rsr , 24h race car, Ferrari (42125) etc