SNIPE

what is this measured in? 1x1x1 sounds weird a 2x1 LEGO brick should be around 10mmx5mmx6mm (6mm tall 10mm long on the side with two studs and 5mm wide on the side with 1 stud, a 2x1 modulex brick should be similar to these dimensions, the studs might be placed at a different width to that of the LEGO studs on modulex i want to attach: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=Mx1042B to a 4x2 stud system brick http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=Mx2401A to each stud of a 4x2 stud system brick (using 8 of those modulex bricks)

in that case i better stick with using the spindle inner part and using the 4L universal joint (if it works) (post for that is here http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=54506&st=15&gopid=983735entry983735 and here http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=54506&st=0&p=974017&hl=SNIPE&fromsearch=1entry974017)

if it did fit i could use 4L or 3L joints joints or mix and match one half of the joint for a 3L and the other end can be a 4L since you can un-clip the UV joints or buy them as a separate part. or i could use the old type UV joints also ,how much the UV joint is pushed into the spindle will make an effect.

hi, in this picture http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr04 i see the two parts together but i don't know how they are attached, it looks like there is a attachment hole in the top adn bottom of each part so does an axle or pin need to be put in there? i want to put either this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=6628 or this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2736 in the top and bottom holes of this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr02 so that i can mount these http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=57515

i think it could be that the UV joint was at too much of a hinge, if you rotate them and twist them too much they will either jam up or feel a little cranky depending on how steep the angle of hinging it is.

what do you mean by ratio, there is different dimension system basic bricks such as the ones with 1 stud, the ones with 2x2 studs etc (o don't know their dimensions)

hi, can the znap bricks be used with technic axles and pins/pegs?

hi, can the Modulex bricks be attached to regular LEGO system bricks ?

WOW , WOW WOW! that lotus looks so good, you can hardly seen any open studs and stuff, especially on the body, these models are uncanny, i'm astounded for words and these models are a giant metaphor to lego , i really dont know why pepole think or say bad things about it

i seen this also after removing everything but the gears and the axles for the gears. also, i would not use two big motors like that, another question is, how does it change gear? i seen no mechanism there to do so.

the pinion gears are thinner but can be used not at an angle, like normal gears

there is none except for the one from the RC car unfortuletley even that needs to be drilled out it looks like i will have to look on the internet for the right part or buy the whole assembly

that's why i asked here originally if somebody already had the part (which was separated) but i guess it was misread or badly explained. i have the part already from the lego Ferrari sets but i don't want to break the part because its part of a set and maybe it will get sold one day also, plus my parents wont like me doing this. i can't find the separate part itself for sale, maybe you can help with that if would be kind of pointless buying the assembled part then breaking the middle bit plus the UV joint may still not fit in, and just having one of these parts is not that useful, you need 4 of them really, for a car or something.

i don't suppose this will be any better http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244a did you DEFINITELY disassemble the two parts of this: http://www.bricklink.com/PL/x873c01.gif and use only the outer parts for the ball joints, the part with the three pins for the wheel is NOT getting used at all only the outer spindle that has the ball joints on is getting used so i can put the UV joint through that larger hole. i am not using the central cup or any of the black portion because it is disconnected from the yellow bit

did you use only the yellow bit to put the universal joint through? (this means taking out the 3 studded wheel center bit.

ill wait and check for certain but if anybody else can help then that will be cool.

do the universal joints fit through the middle of only the outer bit? (this is the yellow bit in my image but yours will be black from the f1. car)

does anybody have the ball joint part (NOT he center part) of this par: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr02 does anybody have the ball joint part (NOT he center part) of this part: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x873c01 or does anybody have both of these? i mean have the part only or have it separated from the other bit of it, its the yellow bit i am after in the second link and the similar looking part in the first link(there is only one part in the first link anyway))

if you have bushes you can remove them or use a half bush and use either a lift arm or a half size lift arm, you could use a thinner gear and another thinner gear (even bevel gears work as normal gears (not on an angle)) you could use a part which does the same job but takes a little bit of space off the old part, just try and use your imagination to fix the problem that you created then you will learn and be a better builder if you can give me a LDD file of only the gearbox i think i could make it better.

i hope so

i mean will the universal joint fit in only the outer bit that has the ball joints on ,i am not using the middle.bit that have the wheel pegs. on. i have thought about using the antenna or similar sized parts before but that wont work as i need them to mesh with the universal joint (which is a cross hole), with the wheel(which is a cross hole) and with the disk brake (which is a cross hole) so i made my own spindle and wishbones but decided that this was would be stronger as there is fewer parts to go wrong and the parts that are for the job are in 1 brick sometimes. i need the universal joint to go through the hole because that means it will take up less space and it was be protected by the spindle and also it will keep is stationary, this also means i can mount the disk brake and wheel closer and that means it will be stronger that using spacers on the axle which effects the wheel balancing. i am using universal joints because this will have 4WD and still have working suspension and steering.

hi, i am working on a better wishbone and spindle assembly and i need to know if these universal joints fit inside of this spindle centre hole: does the universal joint spin round easily? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr02 <-- spindle http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=62520 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244a or with other spindle: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x873c01 <-- spindle http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=62520 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244a i don't want to shave or cut or glue any bricks because its not in my nature and because i will be putting up instructions for the whole car so that people can build it.

the worm gears and several gears in a row along the top is a bad idea and you can use a gearbox like on the 844 super car, its small and compact and can have several speeds. (this is in the LDD file) this is not what you asked in the topic so my guess is that your gears are either too small (too little friction therefore little torque or too big (too much friction and torque) so use some gears that have a few more/less teeth or find another way which they might mesh better (IE some holes might be too far or too close which causes the gears to slip when in the meshing process, also if they are too slack you can wear the teeth down and if they are too tight you can snap the gear in half or wherever. if this still isn't the case then you can keep these meshed by having a tight pulley inbetween the two gear axles,this is good because the pulley can be tight when it needs to be and it can also loosen up slightly in the meshing process if the part or placement is changed. another way is have a beam with holes in it in both sides of the gear (with the axle(s) going through BOTH the beams) also make sure your gears are not counter rotating to their natural rotational direction, this means that they can jam or slip away from each other (and not mesh), your motors and the gears outputted from it might not be syncing properly (one shaft or gear+shaft might be spinning slower or faster or in the wrong direction to another shaft or gear+shaft coming from another motor. there are many other problems which in that case you might have but i cannot explain all of them.

the gearbox connects to the rear engine. he center diff connects the two shafts the top diagram is NOT a parts layout its a horsepower transmission diagram the center diff still gets powered by the gearbox the center diff has two output shafts one we send to the front of the car the other to the back the input shaft or two input shafts is for the center diff so it can link the two shafts. at the front of the car the center diff output shaft is the input shaft for the front diff the other output shaft of the center diff is the input shaft for the rear diff one clutch is in-between the two engines and the other is in-between the gearbox and rear engine (the other side of the engine not the end where the other clutch is)] both flat 8 engines are mid mounted

i don't see anything wrong with it the center diff acts as a transfer case which connects the two shafts, the gearbox is the power source you can just switch between 4 wheel and 2 wheel drive (the downwards arrows indicate that the center diff connects to the shaft)