Boffin

The RIT Dye Method. https://www.ritstudio.com/2015/04/09/how-to-dye-legos-with-new-rit-dye-more/ I ended using a stronger mix than what was is in that tutorial. She is at 8:1 dye mix, I was at or below 4:1 My version of this was a ceramic mug on my barbecue and a ball tea strainer for the pins and small parts, or a strainer for the axles. Get the mix simmering, then submerge for a minute or two. Then remove and check. If happy and not distorting, then dunk into cold water, otherwise back into the mug for more colour. Not everything dyes though. I have a collection of warped liftarm's now. The Frame liftarms were the worse, warping with very little heat. Oddly enough the thin liftarm's dyed ok. The blue 1/2 friction pins were also troublesome. They could still be fitted to liftarms, but warped enough that you couldn't clip parts to them (eg. serial plate or GT3 RS plate, solved with some superglue), but still fine for the hose connections. The single or double friction pins dyed really well. Worse colour to dye, Red. It doesn't take fully. And the best colour, the yellow axles of all things.

Here's my version of the GT3. My mods more focused around re-colouring a lot of the componentry. All the blue pins were dyed, as were the red & cream gears, yellow axles. I replaced majority of the grey bars with black. One of my biggest bug bears was the two grey L bars visible from the rear, which are now gone. On top of this, i've done: - Community errata by Didumos69 - Headlamp moved down 1 pin, and 1 brick closer - Tail lamp gaps closed - Close gap on passenger tunnel in cockpit - "Glass" added to Mirrors - Walters Sticker