20feet

I built my own version of this Mod, with a bunch of added details. Changes include: • Reintegrated hinges, with 2 studs added depth • Working hoist • Full interior floor with central well • Throne room is 1 stud longer, added doors and a fancy balcony • Blacksmith’s forge has wood storage and extra tools • Larder, armoury and secret treasure cave in the gatehouse • Second treasure chest behind removable wall under the stairs • Phoenix shrine becomes a cage for the red dragon, with feeding window and a wooden balcony above. • Decorative shields and cattle skull • Moved gargoyles to the left side and added vines to a big grey wall • Expanded the moat from 2 studs wide to 6 • Added several desks, tables, benches and chairs • Dragon has a larger snout and bottom jaw • A duck More pics on Flickr. Thanks Richard for your excellent creation! Building this was a lot of fun and I wouldn't have tried if I didn't have your version to work from.

Ya, both pairs of wings are loose when in a middle position because of the play in the gears. They're only tight at the end positions. But if the worm gears are misaligned, one pair of wings will hit their end position first and the other will still be loose. @Thwomp and I are on the same page.

That's not my experience. When I start with the worm gears in different positions I get one wing looser than the other, even if I don't turn the gears after. Also, when you add the central bevel gear it locks the worm gears to each other, so it shouldn't be possible to change their alignment later after adding the 8 tooth gears, right? The worm gear has no symmetry, so if you give it a quarter or half turn it then the 8 tooth gear will mesh with it at a slightly different angle. But it's possible that I did something else wrong. I'd be curious if others have the same issue and which solution works for them.

I finally solved a problem I've been having with the wing mechanism in this model. I always had one pair of S-foils that were loose in either position. The issue is with the alignment of the worm gears - if you don't have them exactly in the right position initially, the S-foils will always be slightly out of sync. Looking back at the instructions, there are tiny red highlights at the bottom of the worm gears on steps 7 and 9. Maybe these are meant to indicate the correct position of the worm gears? But these pictures suggest that the worm gears should be in exactly the same position. In my testing, I think one should be turned 180 degrees from the other. It's finicky because the 12-tooth bevel gears create 12 different positions for the worm gears to be in relative to each other. But 180 degrees seems very solid, so I think that's the ideal position. The way to check is at step 37. If you turn the big gear as far as possible to the closed position, the front and back plates should be locked equally tightly. If one is loose, you need to pull off the bottom, turn one of the worm gears, and try again.

Ya, you have to look pretty closely at a 1x8 tile to notice that it's in the "wrong" sans serif font. I'm not really a font obsessive, but I'm quite persnickety with my MOCs. It's like that Steve Jobs quote about the back of the cabinet. And you're right about the change! I didn't notice but it looks like the Singapore and Great Pyramid labels are set in Cera Pro. Lego does like to make minor tweaks to their pieces for no obvious reason. Nice catch Mr Arial

I found the answer! According to Adobe Reader the PDF contains a font called "LEGOChalet60" in different variants. Seems to be a proprietary version of the font family Chalet - very similar if not identical to Chalet London Nineteen Sixty. BTW I tried a bunch of online image font finder tools looking for this - they're all terrible.

Hey does anyone know what font TLG uses for the printed city names in architecture sets? I'm making my own city skyline, and I've been hunting around the internet for the font and I just can't find it.

Ah, ya I should have a look at those 3D models. I was referring to this image: It's not terrible, but there are some issues. I've been looking for photos of original props, and came across an infuriatingly rare Japanese book that apparently has pages of prop photos for every X-wing model in ANH: It's annoying to know these photos exist and have no way to access them. But there are a few good pictures shared here. I think they'll be my main source if I ever get around to building my own X-wing. Is your second X-wing closer to the proportions of the Rouge Squadrons model than your first version?

Hi @Jerac, I'm just now taking a closer look at this and I'm curious what you're using as a reference for the X-wing proportions. Your previous version looks like a pretty close match for the blueprint in the Owners' Workshop Manual, but the new one's a bit different - particularly the longer nose. I don't completely trust the OWM (it led me slightly astray with my TIE Fighter) but it's hard to find more a definitive source. The perspective in photos can be a nightmare, as you noted.

Thanks! It's a fun challenge to build something from the pieces of just one set. But it's rare for a set to have such an awesome "B Model" that also leaves so many pieces for a cool side-build.

Ya I get that some people would prefer a subtler colour scheme, but for a set aimed at kids (or adults nostalgic for classic Pirates) the bright colours are great.

Hi all, I'm late to the party, but I finally got this set for Christmas and once I built the "B model" ship I knew I wanted to do something with all the leftover island pieces. If I'd seen this thread at the time I might have built one of the MOCs above instead, but I'm glad I spent the time to create my own! I built a "Traders' Cay" with a working crane to hoist cargo from a rowboat. Also features discreet treasure chest storage: And a gem buried by an unfortunate prisoner: It's fun to have an island side-build for the pirates to interact with. More pics on my Flickr! What do you think?

White or LBG is the eternal question of X-wing building. I generally prefer LBG, but this white version looks really sharp. Nice work! I just checked and I have trans clear studs with bars in 2 distinct heights. This is very troubling! Are you saying that Lego includes 2 different molds of this piece in the same colour in the same set? WTF?

It's really interesting to see the different versions. I do think the final version looks best from those options. The ones with built clear sections have a nicer shape but they're clunky and distracting. This persuades me that the only alternative would be a built frame without "glass" (which would look out of place in your lineup). It looks like the fuselage is basically the same shape in each version. The too-wide canopy doesn't look too out of place on the narrow hull.

Ya, I won't hassle you any further about using the glass canopy. It makes sense to stick with a consistent style when you're designing a whole fleet of ships, and that means making bigger compromises in some cases. I was curious whether you had to compromise the shape of the T-70 fuselage to fit the canopy - specifically the width and angles at the top.