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Toxic43
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Great news, but also sad that they might have to go on the back burner for a while. Just out of curiosity, what are the expensive parts you need for these? -
Here you go: https://imgur.com/a/SxjAl9q The motor is held in only by the axle connection to the 12t gear. It is an axle with stop which connects into a Technic brick on the other side of the gear. Otherwise it is not mounted solidly, just by technic half pins which fit snug with the panels next to them. Drivetrain is pretty bulletproof, as it has to be with a geared transmission like this. The kids will just hit stop with a full load behind it!
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Alright! Something I have experience of! I originally had two Large Power Functions motors mounted in the boiler of my dark azure Emerald Night clone. However, that required a battery box in the tender, something I wanted to eliminate. So I redesigned the boiler to house a Powered Up battery box and a PU large motor. The rear top section of the boiler and cab roof is now one piece and lifts off too power the loco on and off or change the batteries. This solution makes the loco a lot more fragile though. I'm at work now but I'll try and remember to take some pictures later on.
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This is great! I always wanted to build this train in Lego. Too many projects ahead in the queue though. I can't quite place the slopes used on the top of the plough at the sides though. Are they a new part, or am I just being forgetful? I haven't watched the film for some time but did research this very locomotive a little while ago. The scene was filmed on the Nene Valley Railway which is not far from me. The actual locomotive used in filming, BR Class 20 D8188 (20188) is now far further from me however, on the Watercress line, near Southampton. I don't think I'll ever get that far to see it!
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Wonderful! I can imagine the wok crew pulling up in the speeder train and the relief shift arriving on the pump cart. I'm also kicking myself that I didn't think of that coupling solution! It is brilliant. I have swapped mine back to the standard fixed axles and set up your drawbar solution. It works a treat!
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Coupling system issues solved! Nice. I bought these instructions a while back but haven't been able to use then on the layout with the Speeder because of the coupling system. I have tried articulating the axles on one end, but it raises the height by a plate and ruins the aesthetic. Changing the coupler to a receiver on both sides and using a double ball end is inspired! I'm going to change the couplings on mine to the same, then I'll be able to actually use it on the layout!
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Agreed, I can live with my passenger locos having a single motor at each end if I get to have lights on both ends as well. For my freight locos, I'm not so fussed about lights, but two motors are a must here.
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No problem! I can see someone eventually doing this. You could build the original in the Bricklink Studio software, then once you have the full train built you could work on converting it to a 6 wide build. You'd lose a lot of detail that way, but I think it could be done. You would save a ton of weight as well so would make for much easier motorisation, if that is the route you want to go down. I'd do it myself, but I haven't the time to build the real set, let alone build it digitally and then re-engineer it!
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2 motors and 2 sets of lights. I have this set up on my 7939 loco, which is Power Functions. Easy to do, because you can just stack the lights together on a channel and the motors on the other. Powered up is limited to 2 motors, or a motor and 1 set of lights. Quite the downgrade in terms of connectivity. However, I think the ability to add custom firmware to the hub makes up for it a little.
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Not really a MOD, but this MOC is the only 6 wide Orient Express I could find on Rebrickable: LEGO MOC Orient Express Luxury Train by Handers | Rebrickable - Build with LEGO
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I just finished converting my PF Horizon Express double set over to PU with this Pybricks code installed. Main unit with train motor and lights with the main unit code, and the same in the rear running the observer hub code. It's so great! I have the lights set to start at 20%, which is just perfect, and the smooth acceleration is wonderful! Going to go back through my other locos and redo all their code to use it as well! But the cherry is really the two hubs/one controller functionality. I just turn on the main unit and controller, then the observer in the rear unit and away I go. It's beautiful! And when it is time to pick it up from the layout, I can just separate the units from the rolling stock and put them on the shelf. No long extension leads to separate! I'm sold on the system completely! Now, if only Lego had a city sized hub with more than two outputs...
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Bricklink Designer Program Trains Sets | 2024 & Beyond
Toxic43 replied to RedBrick1's topic in LEGO Train Tech
@Space78 Same here. Ordered one, but would have loved a second. The Logging Railway seems like it will be a chore to build, and has a lot of parts that aren't really necessary for the train to function as a train. I'm not about display pieces and so for me it's a miss, because it will be twice as expensive for including raised track I won't build. The Brick Cross Train Station looks interesting, but at the price points the current lot are going for I'm not as interested as the Train Shed. -
I watched the Youtube video from @BatteryPoweredBricks yesterday evening, and I was amazed at what you guys have managed to accomplish. I thought the original script from @Lok24 was amazing (It is!), but this addition will really make a difference to me personally. Presently I have a 10233 Horizon Express double set with Power functions. Battery Box, Receiver, lights and motor at one end, then two really long extension leads through the coaches to the other loco where there is another motor and lights. With this new setup I can remove all the extension leads, and still have lights and motors at both ends! Just incredible. No move having to separate the extension leads to break the train into two halves. The idea of double or triple heading is also very appealing. I have built @zephyr1934's Conrail version of the 10219 Maersk locomotive and am looking to build a few more in various liveries. This development means I don't need to add more weight to the train with unpowered dummies and can actually get some decent tractive effort at the head end. Gosh! I can practically feel my wallet lightening at the thought of it! Yikes! Well done @and_ampersand_and.
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They do, up to a point. But, as I found out, you can't really pull much more than 3 or 4 carriages/coaches before you lose grip. I upgraded the traction bands to black hardware store O-Rings whcih give more grip, but it would still slip. Ended up having to add some lead shot into the short hood cavity at the back. It is only a small amount, but gives enough weight to be able to pull an extra carriage or two, depending on which ones I run. I'm trying to redesign to a point where I can get a weight brick in there, but I don't think it'll be possible. Doesn't help that my attic floor is not level and the trains have to run partway uphill!
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Fantastic as always! Looks like some technic 90 degree liftarms there for the cylinders. Always interesting to se your models as there's always something new for me to learn!
