VKTechnic

Theoretically, 2.2s are a better fit (in terms of dimensions), but you have to glue the tires. 1.9 fits with some light stretching, which is perfect for LEGO.

Update: Blogged by TLCB! http://thelegocarblo...1/dirty-datsun/ Also, I'm working on an LDD file

They look like Axial Maxxis Trepador tires: I see these a lot at my local hobby shop, they replaced my favorite Ripsaws with them.

Only a week or so after this was published, and we already have mods? Awesome

I don't quite understand how the toe is adjusted...

That hip shake is really satisfying to watch

Probably your best option, just wait for the dirt to dry (if it was wet at all).

Airports are pretty flat, I don't think you need much ground clearance.

In all seriousness, this should go on LEGO Ideas.

This thing is huge! Good job on all the details and functions, and the pictures are amazing as well.

Wow that's quite slow! I'm assuming you're running that off of an M-Motor, or maybe an old RCX motor?

Which tires are they? They look familiar...

Love the front axle, especially the use of those wheel hubs on the steering link.

If you ditched the portal hub, you could bring the universal joint closer to the wheel itself and you'd be able to fit in another UV joint. This will eliminate some of the friction between the driveshaft and the swing arm.

Saw it yesterday, love just how clean the cab is.

Started taking the car apart yesterday and found the problem with the moving bumper: some 3L pins were sticking out too far and the steering rack was clipping them. Too late now..

Made a quick video showing the functions.

Fine, fine, I'll stop being lazy and make a video As far as I know.

Maybe someday I'll rebuild the car from scratch. For now, this is the final model.

V2 should be better AFAIK.

As far as I understand, the V1 receiver does not provide a lot of current to the buggy motor. This results in the buggy motor stalling very easily.

Maybe I'll make a 30 second video on that, if there's demand. Yeah, but the buggy motor proved too much for the V1 receiver

Here's my newest MOC, a replica of the 1970's Safari Rally winning car. Datsun 1600 SSS Rally Car by VKTechnic, on Flickr Features: - Front McPherson suspension - Rear trailing arm suspension - Opening doors and trunk - Detailed interior with opening glove box - Lights activated by handbrake lever - L-Motor drive with limited slip differential - Return-to-center steering Datsun 1600 SSS Rally Car by VKTechnic, on Flickr The car doesn't perform too well on rough terrain, but it drives fairly well on smooth ground and on downhill trails. The suspension works like a charm though, really responsive and not too stiff. Datsun 1600 SSS Rally Car by VKTechnic, on Flickr EDIT: I made a video! You can see more pictures here. Comments, questions, and general feedback are always welcome!

Like I mentioned, that would mean rebuilding the entire rear half of the car So yes, there is a way, but that way is a pain in the rear...

I probably won't add fender flares, since I don't have very many flex axles... To connect a buggy motor to the PF receiver, just use a PF extension cable.