JLiu15

Thank you! I actually considered a swivel movement early on (never considered up/down), but since the bed sits over the articulation joint I scratched the idea. I do see where you’re coming from, though. It was not based on any real truck. It’s just a simple design I put together. It would be possible if the bed were not sitting over the articulation joint - in the WIP topic I actually have some pictures showing a third turntable for swivel movement. However, I realized later on that this would either mean placing the bed far back or making it super high up to avoid contact with the articulation joint, both of which would result in an unrealistic appearance.

Thanks! I’m glad you like it. One of the issues I had with this MOC was with the differentials slipping. That definitely caused some lack of traction. However, the differentials were sorta necessary due to the turning angle.

Functions/features: Driven tracks Articulated steering Tipping bed Opening cabin doors Video: Photos:

UPDATE 6/9/19 Hey guys, I completed this MOC over Memorial Day Weekend. Unfortunately, I kinda forgot about WIP updates as I just wanted to get it done. I was also too lazy to take so many pictures lol. Anyways, the video is uploaded and the MOC topic should be coming shortly.

It looks like extending the outriggers will be painfully slow lol. A worm gear on each outrigger rack module, and you have to do it four times. The 42061's boom took pretty long to extend - I can't imagine doing that four times for a function that's not even the highlight of the model. Anyways, the boom looks pretty 42082-esque. The dog bone/3x11 panel setup on the side and the power transmission to the boom extension are both reminiscent of the 42082's design. I did hear that this set is designed by the same designer as the 42082 though.

The front of the truck looks pretty cool. The use of those bent panels at the front edge of the cabin is something I've never seen done before - feels like a pretty innovative approach to modeling that section. The grille seems to be all stickers, and I'm not a fan of that. For people who generally don't use stickers (like me) that area's gonna look pretty weird with a bunch of bare red beams. I'm also not a fan of the off-center pin with pin hole piece at the bottom of the windshield. Notice how there's two axle joiners to the right and three axle joiners to the left (from driver's POV). But then again, I'm a pretty nitpicky builder so I guess that's just me The B-model is one of the coolest B-models I've seen - I like how it changes the color schemes of the vehicles.

It seems to have independent suspension modules on turntables. Doesn’t make much sense to me...maybe the turntables serve some other purpose? Anyways, this seems like a cool set with CLAAS tires and CONTROL+.

Functions/features: Drive (AWD) Steering (with working steering wheel) 4-speed transmission Motorized gull-wing doors Full independent suspension Flat-6 engine Adjustable seats (recline/slide) Illuminated headlights and taillights (with Brickstuff LEDs) Video: Photos:

I can see the new motors being the basis for Technic-style Powered Up motors. I can also see the new Technic elements being created in more neutral colors for future Technic sets. Overall, seeing this is making me more optimistic of the Powered Up system. I feel that the wire clippers will also help a lot in MOCs that require lots of wire management.

Not sure if this has been answered yet, but in the pictures I noticed a lot of yellow pin+pin hole pieces that are seemingly just "there". They don't seem to serve a purpose. There's several placed on the tracks and up the boom. Do any of you know what's the rationale behind putting on pin+pin hole pieces that don't seem to serve a purpose?

UPDATE 3/28/18 - finished MOC The Red Beryl X has been completed! I finished it last night, and honestly I feel it's a huge improvement over my Red Beryl GT last year. Of course, this MOC had its shortcomings, but overall the building process was very enjoyable and I was able to finish it earlier than anticipated. I feel like the main shortcoming with this MOC is the transmission. Since the model turned out heavier than anticipated, the drive motors tend to struggle on the 2 higher gears. However, it drives ok on the two lower gears. A little more gear reduction before the transmission could have helped, but that would also result in the lower gears being ridiculously slow. The front suspension also tends to sag a little, but it springs back up just fine when compressed. I plan on getting this MOC filmed in the coming weeks, and I plan on bringing it to BrickFair Virginia this summer. Stay tuned for the MOC topic! Until next time, Justin

Thanks for the advice! I'll take a look into your suggestion for the A-pillars - I'll definitely be changing some things here and there before finishing the MOC. For the LAs, I've tested a variety of bevel gear placements while they were in their original orientation and all of them resulted in the LAs extending in opposite directions. It's hard to describe in words - it's basically what happens when three bevel gears are placed 90° to each other and the first/last gears would rotate in opposite directions.

UPDATE 3/21/19 - modified doors and front end The progress may not seem like much, but I spent a lot of time polishing up areas that I was not completely satisfied with. The original doors did not sit flat when closed - they slanted back a little. It was not too noticeable from a distance, but it was very noticeable when viewed up close so I modified the doors and now they sit perfectly flat. I also added a third axle for the doors to slide on, giving them some extra stability. I also modified parts of the front end. I placed the headlights a stud higher as they were absurdly low in the original design. I also redesigned the "hood" and widened it to span the entire width of the body. Note that I also replaced the black 8L axles in the A-pillars with red ones to match the red flex axles. The only addition to the model in this update is the part of the body between the doors and the rear wheel wells. The model is about 70-75% complete now, and I anticipate finishing it early next month. I'm really looking forward to this MOC - I think it will easily be my best looking MOC once finished, and it already blows my Red Beryl GT from last year out of the water in several ways - both in terms of looks and functionality. If you guys have any comments/advice for me please let me know down below - they are what helps me build in the right direction! Until next time, Justin

UPDATE 3/14/19 I've decided that taking up half the space in the front module with a pneumatic autovalve was not worth it due to how much it would affect aesthetics later down the line, so I removed the mechanism and streamlined the build. The chassis is much "cleaner" now, which will make it easier to build a body around. I've also removed the third turntable that would allow the rear module to tilt left/right to some degree, as I can only see it making the model unstable and the tracks slip due to the differentials. Differentials are a must on a model like this - the inner/outer tracks will be at significantly different speeds due to the articulation joint. I may also plan on adding rubber inserts to the tracks in the future to ensure they have plenty of traction on smooth surfaces. Note that the axle the 20T gear in the steering mechanism sits on is now a 7L instead of a 6L. The extra stud will be used to connect to a working steering wheel. I also switched the 20T gear to the left side so that the steering motor will turn the model right in its "positive" direction and vice versa, avoiding the need to flip the polarity switch on the IR remote. I'm also planning on adding a winch mechanism which will sit primarily above the drive motor, which will eliminate any empty channels on the IR receivers. (drive, steer, tip, winch = 4 channels/2 receivers) The tracks were originally built with the top flat, but because the tracks do not have enough tension they would often misalign with the bottom sprockets, essentially propping the chassis up on one corner. I noticed that adding a 7x3 bent beam with a small wheel kept the perfect tension in the tracks, which solved the problem of sprockets misaligning. As for the aesthetics, I'm still planning on making the cabin dark azure. I have a decent assortment of dark azure beams and panels right now ordered off Bricklink, but I may also pick up a 42091 set from my local Target for some extra dark azure pieces. I'm planning on bringing this MOC to BrickFair this summer, along with two other MOCs. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:

UPDATE 3/14/19 A lot of progress since the last update. I've added a ton of functions to the model - the seats are adjustable forwards/backwards and up/down reclining. I've modified the steering mechanism to allow for a working steering wheel, and I've added a mechanism for opening the gull-wing doors, which is motorized. At this point the model is filled to the brim with functions. There's only gonna be more as I'm planning on adding a manually controlled wing mechanism, similar to the one on the Chiron. It's definitely gonna end up as a function-over-form MOC, and it's already far more advanced than any supercar MOC I've made. As for the seats, the adjusting mechanism is something I've never done before. The seats slide along three axles, and a rack/pinion system with a friction pin adds friction to their movement. Up/down reclining is done by a worm gear which slides along one of the axles the seats slide on, and a knob at the end of it is used to control it. The seats are a bit small and out of proportion, but then again there's limited space due to all the functions. The motorized gull-wing door mechanism is a nice extra feature, but it has several drawbacks. I was going to attach the linear actuators parallel to the chassis, but the gearing made it so that they would only go in opposite directions. This is because the motor is only attached to one of the linear actuators, and the three bevel gears setup automatically reverses the direction of rotation. A universal joint would not be an option in this case, as the linear actuators need to bend at a steep angle. My only choice then was to attach them perpendicular to the chassis and force them to extend straight, with a link being used to actually raise/lower the door. Despite sliding the door opening mechanism on two axles to keep the linear actuator going straight, there's still plenty of play in the mechanism. There's definitely some drawbacks with this model that would require a rebuild from scratch to fix, but overall I'm happy with where this model is headed and I'm making some significant improvements over my Red Beryl GT from last year. I'm planning on bringing this MOC to BrickFair this summer, as well as two other MOCs. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:

It was a great first contest for me, and it's interesting to see what others have come up with. I did not have much time to build, so I came up with a rather simple model that I wanted to build a few years back. However, I counted up the votes in the voting topic and it seems that I have actually received 34 points, rather than 24. I could be wrong, but I remember doing a calculation shortly before the end of the voting period and found that my submission (#9) has received 34 points instead of 24.

You did a really good job keeping it loose. I always struggle with that, and I always want to "cover everything up" with panels. I also like how you used the Porsche wheels - they look very fitting for a Lambo-style supercar. The only thing I would have done differently is use part 2741 instead of a 36-tooth gear for the steering wheel. It's sorta a "must-have" for any supercar MOC at this scale in my opinion. But again, that's just personal taste. I also happen to be building a supercar right now, and some of the techniques you used here are just genius. I especially like the suspension setup as well as the fake engine using part 18654 as the "pistons". Anyways, great job on this MOC! I love it.

It looks amazing! I think you nailed it with building at this scale. There's only two minor things that I think could have been better; one is the cab - the side "windows" are too big. I think a 3x11 panel could have covered that space pretty well. Another one is the wheel choice. I personally prefer wheels with this rim when building at this scale, but that's just personal taste.

Thank you!

I don’t know, but the front and rear modules will probably be the same length. it might look more in proportion when the tipping bed is in. Think of the 42069 B model, but bigger.

Hey guys, here's a rather simple project I recently started. I wanted to build something that's highly playable and not too complex, so I decided to do a tracked vehicle of some sort. However, this one will be unique in that steering is not done by tank drive, or by traditional steering. It's by an articulation joint like a front loader. This model will have all-track drive, articulated steering, and a pneumatically tipped bed. The bed will be on the rear module, which will contain no motors. All motorization is done on the front module and the only things passing through the articulation joint/turntable are the drive axle and pneumatic hoses. Propulsion is done by a single L motor above the front differential, steering is done by a M motor that controls 2 linkages going in opposite directions with worm gears, and the pneumatics are controlled by a M motor that simultaneously drives a 6L pump and Sariel's autovalve. The mechanical elements do take up plenty of room in the front module, but once the bodywork is in place most of it should be concealed. My main purpose in building this MOC is to find an opportunity to really use dark azure Technic pieces. My Grapple Truck I6 and my current WIP Red Beryl X were both started with the intent of using dark azure pieces, but both times I was faced with a limited collection of them. I've recently ordered some extra dark azure pieces off Bricklink, and considering a cab on a model this size shouldn't really use that much pieces I think this finally be my first dark azure MOC. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:

UPDATE 2/23/19 I've made some good progress on the MOC here. The Brickstuff LEDs are now installed, and in the process I had to modify the chassis a little to allow space for a Brickstuff battery. Currently only the headlights have Brickstuff LEDs, but I plan on adding them to taillights as well. The headlights' flash patterns can be changed using a controller by the fake engine. The bodywork has also made significant progress - the sides and hood are now in place. I've also modified the floor panels a little, and now there are 4 gray 11x5 panels instead of 2 black 11x5s. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:

13: 10 4: 6 6: 4 14: 3 3: 2 1: 1

Thanks for your opinion! I actually decided to built this back in early 2017 but cancelled it due to plans for BrickFair Virginia that year. I came into the contest kinda late, so I guess it's understandable why you missed the WIP but I was fortunate enough to get it finished well in advance of the contest closing date. I know there are some shortcomings with the model too, and the legs with the rear landing gear is perhaps the biggest one here. I wanted to use the common bent beams here for structural integrity, but they bend at an angle that is way too steep compared to the original. If I were to have built it closer to the actual angle it probably would have ended up very flimsy, and that wouldn't be good since they contain the rear landing gear. I was going to make a container for the video only, but considering how hard it would be to film it I decided against it. Anyways, thanks for your honest opinion. It's comments like these that help me make better MOCS.