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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

Bender222

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. Bender222 replied to Jerac's post in a topic in LEGO Star Wars
    sounds good. I noticed that the whole cockpit design was a bit more solid compared to the interceptor too.
  2. Bender222 replied to Jerac's post in a topic in LEGO Star Wars
    I purchased the sf one. Just wondering, is there a reason for the horizontal cutouts on the wings?
  3. Possible problem. I am using version 1.2 of the instructions. book 4 (engines) on page 16 it displays this . the 1x2 dark bley plate needs to be removed in order for it to attach. I examined it in detail and found that the only way for it to correctly attach is for it to be removed. Upon removal it attaches without issue. I though it was an issue with me and maybe I had built something incorrectly because several other have completed the instructions but I double and triple checked everything and there is no way it would fit.
  4. you could build up the sidesa brick or a brick and a few plates and stick the cylinder halves ontop so that the curve starts higher above the wing.
  5. I am of the opinion that despite the incorrect shape of the cockpit/nose, studs=bad . I think it looks quite good stock.on the sides there are those curved brick pieces. they can be replaced with alternates and tiles. It looks like you got rid of the cranks for the wings, good, I think the wings would be good with just a simple pin-in-hole hinge with maybe a lock on the ends so that the wings stay either stowed ir fully extended. Maybe if you figured out how to synchronize the wings somehow so if you stowed one side it would move the other. You might even have room for a passenger cabin. The nose needs to be raised somehow so that a ramp can be placed underneath it.
  6. just a quick observation. if you were to give up the cargo bay doors opening you could employ something using 3x the 6x6 cylinder halves (only about 1.5 studs or so too long) it would make for a more sleek shape and you could just put some decals for the extra details.
  7. I did not have 5l liftarms but I did have 7ls. Theres is room in the cockpit for the extra length on the ends.
  8. I am sure of the biulding. I can push the panels on the bulge aswell like you said to narrow the gap manually so it is just loosened construction.I removed the panels and am working on reattaching them once they are retightened up. Have you considered adding a rubber band or pair of ball joint brackets to keep things tight?
  9. yes, tat must be it.I can push the panels up against the hangar.
  10. The rear stand is attached correctly aswell, I took the front stand off when I attached the panels. It rests on the cheeses in the rear.
  11. I just finished book 3. I was looking at marlin's pictures and comparing and the gap between the bottom panels and the hangar bay opening/each other seems to be a bit bigger on mine. I have assured that the panels are all connected properly and are resting on the black 2x1 cheeses on either side of the rear stand.I took some photos to illustrate what I am talking about. Is there something I forgot or that you did to make the gaps smaller?
  12. any plans to sell or release the instructions since it was not approved?
  13. Amazing. Are those stickers on the backs of the wings? How are the foils attached? Any rubber bands?
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