DameVeraLynn

The bus reminds me of the Sydtrafik one that runs between Vejle railway station and Billund. Possible inspiration for the designer? Then again though, there are many buses in the world!

These look like a great idea. However, I'm a little squeamish about cutting up Lego (and also short of the necessary time to do it, plus probably the necessary skill!), so I'm interested in buying some that have been pre-prepared. Does anyone know of a European seller of a similar item?

Thanks to @legotownlinz for the clear instructions! Does anyone know if Lego has plans to release a control switch for Powered Up, equivalent to 8869 for Power Functions?

Yes, all of them except the 28 81 motor, which I acquired second-hand with 7740. It sounds plausible, but I'm afraid there's no way I can be certain about which of 2731a and 2731b came with my 7745.

It is a beautiful sound to hear after all that effort! I'm afraid I don't know for certain, as I have both 2731a (which works) and 2731b (which doesn't). It's possible that 2731b came with my 7745 and then stopped working, leading us to purchase 2731a as a replacement, but this all happened 30-odd years ago and hence I can't say with any degree of confidence. I am also unable to say which motor came with my 7745 -- see my post on your thread. Sorry I can't be of greater help!

1. 4.5V battery box (BL Item No: x488c02): success It was remiss of me to post on here before doing a thorough search of old topics! This brought up the following (I record them here for the future reference of people trying to solve the same problem): Getting a 4.5V train running Corroded battery wagon How to check non-functioning 4.5V train set? After reading these and with a little trial and error, I have managed to get my 4.5V train working. It was a beautiful moment as 7722 whirred into life for the first time in around three decades! The quality and longevity of Lego continues to impress me greatly. Thanks to the original posters. I think the main problem was a loose connection in the socket on the side of the battery box. 2. 12V conducting rail (looks like BL Item No: 2731b): still no luck Any suggestions gratefully received. Has anyone ever disassembled one of these 'interference-free' capacitor rails? Will the process of pulling it apart essentially destroy it?

Having spent the last few days restoring some of my childhood Lego trains, I've run into a couple of problems which I hope the experts on here may be able to help me with! 1. 4.5V battery box (BL Item No: x488c02) This particular box comes from 7722 and was originally used to power a 4.5V train motor. The motor still works (I have tested it by connecting it to the 12V transformer with the control knob inverted) but it fails to run when connected to the battery box (filled with three brand-new rechargeable C batteries). Does anyone have any troubleshooting advice for these battery boxes? Can you suggest what steps I could take to try and get it working again? Any thoughts on the best substance to use to clean the contacts? 2. 12V conducting rail (looks like BL Item No: 2731b) This rail should transfer power to the track when connected to the 12V transformer, but fails to do so. I've tried unscrewing the plug and replacing it with another, but that doesn't help. Rather strangely, it also cuts the circuit when added to a loop! My suspicion is that there's an internal fault, possibly caused by corrosion (it looks nice and clean, but I spent some time rubbing it with a model railway cleaner before testing it!) Has anyone come across a problem like this before? Many thanks in advance for any help you are able to provide!

Thanks. Was that 20% import VAT on the value of the goods and delivery, plus an £8 admin charge from the Post Office?

Thanks for linking the video, the train looks great! Have you tried putting O-rings on the flanged drivers in order to improve traction? Do you know if BBB wheels are available from anywhere inside the EU?

Hi Holger, Firstly, let me say how much I enjoyed your Lego Trains book! Re your BR 10, you mention on the site that you power it with two PF motors in the tender. When I tried something similar with the Emerald Night I ran into problems, as the wheels on the locomotive connected by the piston rods didn't turn smoothly, so I ended up reverting back to the standard XL motor solution (i.e. powering those wheels directly). I suspect your BR 10 works more smoothly than the Emerald Night and hence you don't run into the same problem -- is that correct? Danke.

Black type 2: 28 81 (very probably 7740) Black type 3: 41 2 (probably 7755 or 7865) 08 6 29 6 (one of these last two must have come with 7745 -- the version with the red pins in the wheels, which tallies with the 1986 date; the other is probably from 7755 or 7865)

Has anyone come up with a similar solution for the Maersk train?

Hi @Catanas, I've just seen these and they look great. Did you end up selling any hi-res files?

Has anyone purchased anything from ministickers.nl recently? I've emailed them more than once in the last few days with questions about their items, but had no response. Do you know if they are trading as normal? Also, are the stickers as good as they look (they look great!)

The possibility of a new PF system raises the interesting prospect of running trains on one system (say 2.0) and points on the other (say the original PF system, which could be used to control up to 8 sets of points). A bit like the 12V glory days, only wireless.